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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray T4 2016
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Welcome to the XRAY T4'16 Thread & Wikipost! Here you will find some useful info, tips and tricks as well as setups that are used by several team drivers. This wikipost is a work in progress and should continue to develop over time.

Tips & Tricks:

Alex Hagberg's Tech Tip Tuesday articles

How to mount your Protoform LTC-R Body
Setting static camber
How to mount weight on your chassis Part1
How to mount the rear wing on Protoform bodies
Simple troubleshooting guide
How to mount the battery on your chassis
How to glue your front tires for CRC Black carpet with Eric Anderson
Utilizing Exponential and RMode on the M12S
How to mount weight on your chassis Part2

Team driver Tim Wahl posted some very useful tips on Facebook as he worked through building a new kit.

1- Carbon Parts
2-Suspension
3-Solid Axle and Differential
4-Bulkheads & Drivetrain
5-Driveshaft (ECS & CVD)
6-Front & Rear Suspension
7-Tweak
8-Anti-Roll Bar
9-Battery Fix (OPTIONAL)
10-Bumper & Body
11-Shocks
12-Steering

New Graphite Hubs:
Xray have recently released some additional Graphite hubs for the T4 lineup. The 4° Graphite C-Hub has been out for some time and is known to improve steering on entry, and in general makes the car turn better. This has been the go-to c-hub on asphalt for many on the Xray team, though it is not needed on high bite carpet. The Graphite rear hub tends to make the car more stable, especially on corner entry. We are still working on gathering input on the new Graphite steering block, but for the moment feel that it should improve steering response. All Graphite parts are approximately 1g lighter than the Hard or Medium options.

Option Parts to consider:
XRA301196 T4 Graphite Upper Deck 1.6mm V2
XRA301226 Foam Bumper – Hard - highly recommend
XRA302165 Composite Front Suspension Arm 2-Hole – Hard
XRA302169 Composite Front Suspension Arm 1-Hole – Graphite
XRA302803 1.3mm Front Anti-Roll Bar
XRA303169 Composite Rear Suspension Arm 1-Hole – Graphite
XRA303802 1.2mm Rear Anti-Roll Bar
XRA305137 Steel Solid Axle Driveshaft Adapters - HUDY Spring Steel - highly recommend
XRA305242 Composite Drive Shaft Replacement Cap 3.5mm – Orange – Strong (QTY 4)
XRA305351 Aluminum Wheel Hub – Offset “-0.75mm” – Black (QTY 2)
XRA306191 T4 Graphite + Aluminum Fully Adjustable Battery Holder
XRA308264 4S Spring-Set Progressive C=2.5-2.8 (QTY 2)
XRA308276 4S Spring-Set C=2.7 (QTY 2)
XRA308286 4S Spring-Set C=2.6 (QTY 2)
Specific to Asphalt:
XRA302383 Composite C-Hub Right – 4* - Graphite (ECS)
XRA302384 Composite C-Hub Left – 4* - Graphite (ECS)
XRA308039 Aluminum Progressive Shock System – Set (QTY 2)

Specific to Carpet:

XRA301141 T4 Aluminum Flex Chassis 2mm
XRA302375 Composite C-Hub Right – 6* - Hard ***Modification may be required if they don't have the "ECS" stamp.

XRA302376 Composite C-Hub Left – 6* - Hard ***Modification may be required if they don't have the "ECS" stamp.

XRA303711-O Aluminum Rear Lower Suspension Holder – Front – RF
Recent Setups:
3 July 2016 - Alex Hagberg - European Championship - Asphalt - Mod - 2nd
3 July 2016 - Bruno Coelho - European Championship - Asphalt - Mod - 4th
3 July 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - European Championship - Asphalt - 13.5 - TQ + Win

29 June 2016 - Max Kuenning - Reedy - Asphalt - Mod - 4th
29 June 2016 - Keith Yu - Reedy - Asphalt - 13.5 - TQ + 2nd
29 June 2016 - Eric Anderson - Reedy - Asphalt - 13.5 - 3rd

15 May 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 4 Riccione - Asphalt - Mod - TQ + Win
15 May 2016 - Mattia Collina - ETS Rd 4 Riccione - Asphalt - 13.5 - Win

17 April 2016 - Max Kuenning - MHIC - Carpet - Mod - 4th

10 April 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - Mod - 2nd
10 April 2016 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - Mod - 4th
10 April 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - ETS Rd 3 Wels - Carpet - 13.5 - TQ + Win

22 March 2016 - Paul LeMieux - Canadian Nats - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
22 March 2016 - Luke Pittman - Canadian Nats - Carpet - Mod - 3rd

6 March 2016 - Chris Adams - ROAR Nats - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
6 March 2016 - Craig Xavier - ROAR Nats - Carpet - 17.5 - 4th
6 March 2016 - Eric Anderson - ROAR Nats - Carpet - 17.5 - 5th

6 February 2016 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 2 Koblenz - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
6 February 2016 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 2 Koblenz - Carpet - Mod - 2nd

31 January 2016 - Alex Hagberg - Snowbirds - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win
31 January 2016 - Jan Ratheisky - Snowbirds - Carpet - All - See Comments
31 January 2016 - Drew Ellis - Snowbirds - Carpet - 13.5 - 4th
31 January 2016 - Robbie Dodge - Snowbirds - Carpet - 17.5 - Win

13 December 2015 - Bruno Coelho - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 3rd
13 December 2015 - Alex Hagberg - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 4th
13 December 2015 - Olly Jeffries - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - Mod - 7th
13 December 2015 - Jan Ratheisky - ETS Rd 1 Hrotovice - Carpet - 13.5 - TQ + Win

29 November 2015 - Paul LeMieux - US Indoor Champs - Carpet - Mod - TQ + Win

25 October 2015 - Eric Anderson - Stock Wars - Carpet - 17.5 - 2nd

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Old 10-14-2015, 12:09 PM   #151
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Yes the kit comes with a 84T 48P spur, there's no real advantage to running either but 48P would deal with small stones and debris a little better than 64P when running outdoors.
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Old 10-14-2015, 03:33 PM   #152
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Got my kit yesterday and started the very enjoyable build.

Sadly my alloy steering arms 302525 didn't make it, on back-order.


Did all the tedious stuff last night such as CA'ing the carbon bits and building all links and diffs.

Tonight I should be able to finish the build,
parts I am using other than stock are

2.7 Springs all round 308276
Graphite Steering Plate 302570
450CST shock oil
5000CST rear diff
30g balance weight 309854
Alu steering arms 302525
Carbon Bumper brace
Alu servo horn HD293493
Alu battery holders

Can't wait to give it a shakedown in Whalan this weekend before the Australian Nationals there in 3 weeks.
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Old 10-14-2015, 04:57 PM   #153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skitee View Post
Yes the kit comes with a 84T 48P spur, there's no real advantage to running either but 48P would deal with small stones and debris a little better than 64P when running outdoors.
Cool...what I figured. Do most people run 48p on asphalt? Just nice to know I may be able to "borrow" one from someone else should I mess one up.

What size spur would you recommend for 13.5 blinky?

Thanks
Seth
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Old 10-14-2015, 05:18 PM   #154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cplus View Post
Just received my kit and good portion of options I ordered (some on back order!)

Looking forward to the build. Even the plastic bags feel higher quality (lols!) than what I'm used to 😀

For the seasoned T4 builders - anything to watch out for ??
How are you finding the build compared to your previous cars?
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Old 10-14-2015, 07:37 PM   #155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3D-Seth View Post
What size spur would you recommend for 13.5 blinky?

Thanks
Seth
I run 48P in 13.5 Blinky on Asphalt.

I have 69/70/72t spurs (Arrowmax from memory)
and 30-40t pinions. Gives everything 3.28-4.56 FDR.
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Old 10-14-2015, 07:43 PM   #156
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
How are you finding the build compared to your previous cars?
I think it has been just that bit nicer, although I'm not really assembling the main car yet, but the bits I have put together went nicely.
I like the links all have the open style ends to better clear the wheels, that wasnt the case for my '14 from memory.
I was also a bit of a novice 2 years ago building the '14, I expect my assembly skills have improved in that time.

Let me report back tomorrow.
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Old 10-14-2015, 08:44 PM   #157
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Post Convert 15!

Quote:
Originally Posted by RC MARKET View Post
T4'15 Upgrade 16 Parts
Are these the only parts needed to convert 2015 to 2016?
- Chassis
- Top deck
- motor mount plate

Thx for replying.
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Last edited by AL1983; 10-14-2015 at 08:46 PM. Reason: more specific.
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Old 10-14-2015, 09:36 PM   #158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AL1983 View Post
Are these the only parts needed to convert 2015 to 2016?
- Chassis
- Top deck
- motor mount plate

Thx for replying.
303712-O & 303713-O also needed
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Old 10-15-2015, 04:22 AM   #159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
How are you finding the build compared to your previous cars?
It's honestly a little bit of a mixed bag in terms of plus and minus over the TRF so far!
The carbon finish seems no different to TRF to be honest.

The alloy anodising does appear deep and even. I would like to see the alloy parts keyed to the chassis though. And three screws to the split blocks would be a much better idea.

The diff was very nice to build, but so is the TRF (just that the TRF leaks like sieve after). Plastic satellite gear shafts is a bit of a let down. It is also double the price! Plastic for the spool (and outdrives if left stock) seems a bit cheap. I'm sure it performs ok.

I like the diff/spool tension adjustment method better. More precise. Easier to lock in.

I did find some swarf in the then of a few of the alloy parts. Not a big drama.

I don't like the DCJ design compared to the Tamiya, but if they do they job, and don't break, that's what matters.

The insert system is novel, and cheaper than other solutions I'm sure, and no need for shims or a variety of blocks - but how does it wear? Seems less precise the balls in hard mounts.

Stock Bumper seems quite flimsy.

One of the rear driveshaft pins was mis-ground and would not fit into the y coupling. I had to sand it on the chamfer edge. Little disappointing.

The plastics are much better. They thread nicer and have much less slop. You can tell they have really spent some R&D on the injection moulding design to ensure high quality. 4 injection points for each diff spider gear for example.

Ball cups/studs are very tight fitting yet very smooth. Good job.

Shock Pistons would be nicer if they were machined and not off a tree.

The finish of the hinge pins could be treated. I've seen surface rust on others and can see how they could oxide easily. Non rusting Titanium, is of course, an upgrade away.

Servo saver is awesome. Servo mount is nice and light - but oh so complex to a single piece alloy 😜

It has, however, cost a small fortune to bring up to the same "spec" as my 419 - carbon bumper, alloy Spring retainers, alloy steering, graphite plastics, steel/alloy outdrives, alloy spacers - not to mention other upgrades I "had" to have like white belts, body post dooflakkies and battery retainer.
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Old 10-15-2015, 06:49 AM   #160
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http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/new...%20Alu%20Posts
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Old 10-15-2015, 03:48 PM   #161
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Also new to the X-ray camp. Been running Schuies for the last 5-7 years and well enjoying the build of a different brand.

Looking for a spring kit that has a range of springs tho?

Any recommendations?

Thanks
Robert.
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Old 10-15-2015, 04:23 PM   #162
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Reflex racing has a full set of springs for the T4
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Old 10-15-2015, 05:37 PM   #163
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OK thanks. Will have a look at these.

Any tips for a new X-ray owner regarding the build or setup?

Extra things to get to help?
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Last edited by RAST; 10-15-2015 at 07:01 PM.
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Old 10-15-2015, 08:27 PM   #164
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Almost done with the build, just electronics now. Oh, and need to change out for alloy screws when they arrive.

So..... What's the best way to free up the ball cups?

A couple of them feel a little bit tight - would prefer all nice and floppy! They certainly take quite a bit more effort to fit than other brands - not going to pop off in a hurry.

On more comparison stuff, I like the end result with the sway bars, definitely not going to be sticky or binding and will be easy to adjust - but gee they sure are a little finicky to install first go!
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Old 10-16-2015, 01:27 AM   #165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cplus View Post
So..... What's the best way to free up the ball cups?

A couple of them feel a little bit tight - would prefer all nice and floppy! They certainly take quite a bit more effort to fit than other brands - not going to pop off in a hurry.
If I get one that feels a touch tight I normally just pop it off and back on again, that's normally enough to stretch it a tiny amount and free it up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cplus View Post
On more comparison stuff, I like the end result with the sway bars, definitely not going to be sticky or binding and will be easy to adjust - but gee they sure are a little finicky to install first go!
It's fiddly at first, but does get easier as you get used to them! Changing a bar only takes me a couple of minutes now, and there's usually not much detweaking needed because the whole system is so accurate. I keep an 'old school' L-shaped allen key for pushing the bearings out of the bulkheads.
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