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Old 04-04-2016, 09:12 AM   #691
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Was testing out the new setup yesterday and towards the end of the session the car was losing the left rear traction...in the pits I discovered a rear YR-42 CVD snapped clean off. In no way was I near a wall or had a bad driver moment.

Replacements are on the way I'm curious if the direct rear spool could have been the culprit...
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HPI RS4 Sport 3-20160404_085750_resized.jpg   HPI RS4 Sport 3-20160404_085830_resized.jpg  
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Old 04-04-2016, 03:34 PM   #692
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I'm wondering if Yeah Racing started using cheaper materials or something. It seems like the aluminum they used for this Sport 3 kit is breaking left and right. I've been using all of the YR aluminum parts on my Sprint 2 for years now and never had anything break, even after tapping some walls/curbs here and there.
This is the 2nd or 3rd mention in this thread about the CVD's and there was a broken knuckle or lower arm not long ago after a rollover. 😕 Disappointing.
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Old 04-04-2016, 05:19 PM   #693
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Interesting for sure I need to have some spare cvd's anyways will see what happens on the next test runs. I had a few other cars with me and got some good run time in before the incident...the straight-line tracking was dead on which so many owners have had issues with in the past.

I'm not too happy about the gear up change I made to a 70 spur...the stock 66 performed really good on previous tests... top end and through the power ban. I heard back from a guy who is running both spools frt & rear and swears the car is planted and not all over the board. This goes against what many say about double spools but it's worth a try since I have the mod sitting on the bench. The car's rear end was very lose this time out...set the new shocks identical to the same as previous test so the immediate direct spool power could be breaking the rear lose since the tires are still brand new.
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Old 04-04-2016, 08:33 PM   #694
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Originally Posted by Cudacharger View Post
Interesting for sure I need to have some spare cvd's anyways will see what happens on the next test runs. I had a few other cars with me and got some good run time in before the incident...the straight-line tracking was dead on which so many owners have had issues with in the past.

I'm not too happy about the gear up change I made to a 70 spur...the stock 66 performed really good on previous tests... top end and through the power ban. I heard back from a guy who is running both spools frt & rear and swears the car is planted and not all over the board. This goes against what many say about double spools but it's worth a try since I have the mod sitting on the bench. The car's rear end was very lose this time out...set the new shocks identical to the same as previous test so the immediate direct spool power could be breaking the rear lose since the tires are still brand new.
Interesting about the 2 spool diffs. I've always heard it made the car harder to handle, racers don't like them up front at all to my understanding.
The rear spool plus the power of the brushless may very likely be the culprit in breaking the rear shaft. I'm wondering now if the aluminum upgrade isn't really designed for high power, high traction use. With drifting, there is much less stress on those because of the lack of traction.
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Old 04-05-2016, 12:53 PM   #695
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Interesting about the 2 spool diffs. I've always heard it made the car harder to handle, racers don't like them up front at all to my understanding.
The rear spool plus the power of the brushless may very likely be the culprit in breaking the rear shaft. I'm wondering now if the aluminum upgrade isn't really designed for high power, high traction use. With drifting, there is much less stress on those because of the lack of traction.
My thoughts exactly at first is why I only installed the rear. With the car being a new design I anticipated some trial and error getting it setup to my liking. I'm thinking adding the front spool might evenly distribute the direct power to all 4 areas if someone has already done this mod jump in the thread....my hopes are a few defective CVD's made it out in the first released kits sold from YR.

Anyone else having CVD issues?
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Old 04-06-2016, 10:01 AM   #696
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Remember that a spool is an anti-mecanical part. Most of the time, when racers are using spool (in the front) they are using spring steel CVD or DCJ. Aluminum is for the rear, when a diff is installed. Here with two spools (I think you would soon abandon this configuration), you have to go for sprind steel SVD everywhere!
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Old 04-10-2016, 06:06 AM   #697
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Even though I think the chassis design is innovative, and I, myself is very much interested in getting one, but I just can not justify the price, the selling price of the RS4 Sport3 is 319.98USD for the RTR version, which is pretty ridiculous, because presumably, this chassis would perform the same as a Tamiya TT-02, but costs a lot more(I just got a TT-02 type-s kit for 103USD no long ago), so hopefully, there will be a price drop on this chassis, if that happens, I will definitely buying one.
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Old 04-10-2016, 08:31 AM   #698
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I don't get it. Your TT-02 is a box of parts that comes with a 3 dollar motor, no ESC, no TX, no RX and no body. The RS4 Sport is fully assembled with a TX/RX and a brushless power system made by either Castle or Hobbywing. The Porsche version includes very wide tires, a big painted and finished body with diffusers and an adjustable wing.

I just bought a TT-02D Type S last week. The cheapest I could find the Type S kit this morning was $125 from 4 different stores. A motor / ESC combo will run $110 for the Castle Sidewinder 3 system or $100 for a Hobbywing combo. If you already have a decent radio, an RX will cost $30-60 depending on your brand and features. Then after all that, you still need a body. There goes 50-80 more bucks. (gotta have paint and a wing) We're up to $300-385 and that's assuming you already have a transmitter to control it.

Now we've spent the same money but lost half the weekend or more to build and paint it all. I happen to like the building part but if time = money, it doesn't even come close. The HPI is a much cheaper car out of the box.

Also, the RS4 Sport has steel gears in the drive system and diffs. The only steel gear in the Tamiya is the pinion.

Other than that, I like them both. I've owned them both. I returned the RS4 and just finished my TT-02D Type S last night. It looks like this.
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Old 04-10-2016, 04:09 PM   #699
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I don't get it. Your TT-02 is a box of parts that comes with a 3 dollar motor, no ESC, no TX, no RX and no body. The RS4 Sport is fully assembled with a TX/RX and a brushless power system made by either Castle or Hobbywing. The Porsche version includes very wide tires, a big painted and finished body with diffusers and an adjustable wing.

I just bought a TT-02D Type S last week. The cheapest I could find the Type S kit this morning was $125 from 4 different stores. A motor / ESC combo will run $110 for the Castle Sidewinder 3 system or $100 for a Hobbywing combo. If you already have a decent radio, an RX will cost $30-60 depending on your brand and features. Then after all that, you still need a body. There goes 50-80 more bucks. (gotta have paint and a wing) We're up to $300-385 and that's assuming you already have a transmitter to control it.

Now we've spent the same money but lost half the weekend or more to build and paint it all. I happen to like the building part but if time = money, it doesn't even come close. The HPI is a much cheaper car out of the box.

Also, the RS4 Sport has steel gears in the drive system and diffs. The only steel gear in the Tamiya is the pinion.

Other than that, I like them both. I've owned them both. I returned the RS4 and just finished my TT-02D Type S last night. It looks like this.
Because in my opinion, the RS4 Sport3 was made to be an entry level chassis, and it will stay that way for its entire lifespan, regardless all the gadgets that came with the kit like you mentioned, and speaks by the kit itself and not the drivers, it will not be able to race against other intermediate level chassis, or some of those sub 100USD belt driven chassis, such as the 3Racing Sakura ones, even though I am not a fan of the belt driven chassis, and the only and only belt driven chassis I own is the Tamiya XV-01(bought it used from eBay). Plus from my personal experience, the quality of HPI remote control system is not really up to the standard, I have an E10 RTR kit that came with the HPI 2.4 GHZ system, and its response sensitivity is far slower than my Futaba and Tamiya combo(Futaba 3PL remote, Futaba R204GF-E receiver, Tamiya TEU-105BK BEC, and a super old Airtronics 94102 servo) on my TT-01, so I can not really go over the price tag of 319.98USD for this chassis. Furthermore, what is the fun of this hobby without be able to assemble the kit by yourself.

I am not here to start the flame or hate, or to offend anyone, I am here just to give my own opinion, and that is all, like I stated in my previous post, I really adore the innovative features they put on this chassis, which make the maintenance a lot easier, and I really want to get one for myself, so my plan is to get the parts from eBay and assemble them together by myself, or simply buy a roller instead.
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Old 04-10-2016, 05:00 PM   #700
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I built my RS4 Sport 3 by buying it part by part and assembling it like a kit. Between Tower Hobbies and a couple sellers on eBay I was able to build this chassis far cheaper than an RTR. I also got to skip over the (in my eyes worthless) parts like non-adjustable links and steel driveshaft and plastic show towers etc. I just waited for the upgrades and bought those. I still don't have the rx/tx for it, but I never really include those in the price of a chassis anyways.
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Old 04-11-2016, 08:08 AM   #701
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I'm not trying to make a fuss either but I still don't really get the comparison. The TT-02 is also entry level. The various specs improve it a little but nothing like Tamiya's other kits that are far more race-ready. Sure, it can be fully upgraded to race spec but comparing the price of an RTR model with so many features to an entry level kit that comes with nothing and calling it ridiculous makes no sense to me. A proper comparison would be the standard Sport 3 RTR to a Tamiya RTR, in which case they both start at around $259.
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Old 04-11-2016, 11:03 AM   #702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wareagle84 View Post
I built my RS4 Sport 3 by buying it part by part and assembling it like a kit. Between Tower Hobbies and a couple sellers on eBay I was able to build this chassis far cheaper than an RTR. I also got to skip over the (in my eyes worthless) parts like non-adjustable links and steel driveshaft and plastic show towers etc. I just waited for the upgrades and bought those. I still don't have the rx/tx for it, but I never really include those in the price of a chassis anyways.

I should of went this direction ...would of saved a bundle.
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Old 04-29-2016, 07:14 AM   #703
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FYI, the guy selling complete new in box brushed RS4s for $139 on Ebay is HPI... Paypal came through as [email protected].

My orange BMW showed up yesterday, ziptied to the cardboard. Threw an old SW3 and Trackstar 3900 in it, peeled off all those damn stickers and went at it. Rocks in the steering are definitely annoying No issues at all from the dog bones, there's almost no play.



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Old 04-29-2016, 07:41 AM   #704
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Nice score! All (4) of the RS4 Sport 3 Falken Porsches sold out immediately. I had to add another one to the collection at that price.
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Old 05-01-2016, 09:46 AM   #705
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I did some speed test with my rs4 in a parking lot to compare batteries. Not to sure if this is right, but I have a new SMC 2s 6500 mah/ 60C constant / 120C burst that hit a max 39 mph. I then tried my brothers battery GENS ACE, a 5000 MAH / 50C that max out at 43 mph.

Does this make sense?

I have always been getting the SMC batteries and I am thinking about switching brands. I had one puff up like a balloon that only had about 10 charges on it, and I don't handle/use/store improperly.
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