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Old 12-17-2015, 12:06 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by tc4basher
Just replace the stock center diff with a spool and run 8mm pinions as spurs and make the holes on mount a little bigger so you can slide the motor outward a few more millimeters like I did with the early motor mount.

I can fit at least a 37t PINION with a 26t SPUR. I have gotten my MGT7 up to 140 mph on 8s with 37P/29S.

https://youtu.be/eO8JU1v83jg

Here is a 139 mph pass. Check out my other vids too of this wonderful car.
but I would loose in cornering ability

I've bought this car to race in a GTe class that we'll have next year in our local track.

Mugen should recognize they failed in designing an onroad car with offroad gearing options. Know that they fixed the problem, I just don't think it's fair having to pay for this "upgrade"
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Old 12-17-2015, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by rnelias
but I would loose in cornering ability

I've bought this car to race in a GTe class that we'll have next year in our local track.

Mugen should recognize they failed in designing an onroad car with offroad gearing options. Know that they fixed the problem, I just don't think it's fair having to pay for this "upgrade"
Center diffs are better for cornering ability? I wouldnt know since I dont race but my MGT7 still corners great with the center spool.
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Old 12-17-2015, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by tc4basher
Center diffs are better for cornering ability? I wouldnt know since I dont race but my MGT7 still corners great with the center spool.
Sure!

and it's not hard to visualize...

Imagine a very tight corner... The rear wheels will have to displace more than the front ones since they're in the outer radius of the car pivot -- the front wheels. By using a spool, you'll be forcing front and rear to have the same displacement and the car will probably loose the front.

In fact, front and rear diffs also play an important rule regarding cornering ability as the outer wheels must displace more than the inner ones. In the other hand, front diff is not an issue and some pilots like to replace the diff by a blocked spool. Front wheels are important to pull the car and keep forward traction while cornering. It explains why we use thinner diff oils in the rear diff
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Old 12-17-2015, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by rnelias
Sure!

and it's not hard to visualize...

Imagine a very tight corner... The rear wheels will have to displace more than the front ones since they're in the outer radius of the car pivot -- the front wheels. By using a spool, you'll be forcing front and rear to have the same displacement and the car will probably loose the front.

In fact, front and rear diffs also play an important rule regarding cornering ability as the outer wheels must displace more than the inner ones. In the other hand, front diff is not an issue and some pilots like to replace the diff by a blocked spool. Front wheels are important to pull the car and keep forward traction while cornering. It explains why we use thinner diff oils in the rear diff
Yeah that makes sense. Thanks for the explanation.

So how big of a pinion can fit with the updated mount?
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Old 12-18-2015, 05:11 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by rnelias
Sure!

and it's not hard to visualize...

Imagine a very tight corner... The rear wheels will have to displace more than the front ones since they're in the outer radius of the car pivot -- the front wheels. By using a spool, you'll be forcing front and rear to have the same displacement and the car will probably loose the front.

In fact, front and rear diffs also play an important rule regarding cornering ability as the outer wheels must displace more than the inner ones. In the other hand, front diff is not an issue and some pilots like to replace the diff by a blocked spool. Front wheels are important to pull the car and keep forward traction while cornering. It explains why we use thinner diff oils in the rear diff
Disagree. The front and rear wheels taken as pairs spin at virtually identical speeds. The difference in travel during cornering is between left and right sides.

Foam or rubber, you will never see a purpose-made 4wd on-road racing car with a center diff.
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Old 12-18-2015, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by heretic
Disagree. The front and rear wheels taken as pairs spin at virtually identical speeds. The difference in travel during cornering is between left and right sides.

Foam or rubber, you will never see a purpose-made 4wd on-road racing car with a center diff.
Well I think it may come down to personal preference. Some drivers may do better with the center diff and some with a spool depending on driving style.
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Old 05-16-2016, 05:47 AM
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Default Front spool

Hi there,

does anyone know which spool could replace the front diff in this car?
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Old 05-16-2016, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by rnelias
Hi there,

does anyone know which spool could replace the front diff in this car?
Dont think they make spools for front diff. May need to just lock up the stock diff.
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Old 05-16-2016, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by tc4basher
Dont think they make spools for front diff. May need to just lock up the stock diff.
that's what a folk told me
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Old 05-16-2016, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by rnelias
that's what a folk told me
The kit comes with real thick diff oil already. I believe its 300k or 500k. Thickest stuff Ive seen so far. What are you using the car for that you want a spool or locked diff up front?

Last edited by tc4basher; 05-18-2016 at 07:13 PM.
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Old 05-18-2016, 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by tc4basher
The kit comes withreal b thick diff oil already. I believe its 300k or 500k. Thickest stuff Ive seen so far. What are you using the car for that you want a spool or locked diff up front?
just wondering how the car would handle with front locked
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Old 05-18-2016, 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by rnelias
just wondering how the car would handle with front locked
Try it out and let us know.
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Old 06-01-2016, 07:53 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by tc4basher
The kit comes with real thick diff oil already. I believe its 300k or 500k. Thickest stuff Ive seen so far. What are you using the car for that you want a spool or locked diff up front?
Mine came with 600K for F & center diffs and 50K for rear diff. I've seen 1M (in my 1/10th cars), 2.5M, and 22.5M for the front diff. Those should virtually lock the front diff. I put a hybrid setup in my MGT7 ECO that was used by our local MGT7 expert in Brownsville to win the recent Serpent Challenge Electric GT race: Adam Drake's nitro MGT7 suspension settings and the rest is stock fluids, pistons, and swaybars that came with the ECO kit. Hopefully mine will turn as well as Doc's once I get a chance to get it out on the track. Adam modified the upper front arms to reduce the caster; however, I didn't do that yet til I get to run the car on the track.

BTW is was an asphalt track.

Overall this is a well engineered but IMO a poorly packaged kit in desparate need of better instructions. For example, many parts bags have several sub packets. However, to complete most assembly sequences requires you to open just about every subpacket because the needed parts are spread throughout most if not all of the sub packets within that parts bag. IMO it would be much better to put all the parts needed for that one assembly sequence into the same packet - less chance of loosing those small parts! Some shout outs warning you that, for example, the center diff case is different than the F/R diffs as well as the correct orienations of certain parts would really have been appreciated.

Last edited by John Wallace2; 06-01-2016 at 08:36 PM.
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Old 06-02-2016, 12:00 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by John Wallace2
Mine came with 600K for F & center diffs and 50K for rear diff. I've seen 1M (in my 1/10th cars), 2.5M, and 22.5M for the front diff. Those should virtually lock the front diff. I put a hybrid setup in my MGT7 ECO that was used by our local MGT7 expert in Brownsville to win the recent Serpent Challenge Electric GT race: Adam Drake's nitro MGT7 suspension settings and the rest is stock fluids, pistons, and swaybars that came with the ECO kit. Hopefully mine will turn as well as Doc's once I get a chance to get it out on the track. Adam modified the upper front arms to reduce the caster; however, I didn't do that yet til I get to run the car on the track.

BTW is was an asphalt track.

Overall this is a well engineered but IMO a poorly packaged kit in desparate need of better instructions. For example, many parts bags have several sub packets. However, to complete most assembly sequences requires you to open just about every subpacket because the needed parts are spread throughout most if not all of the sub packets within that parts bag. IMO it would be much better to put all the parts needed for that one assembly sequence into the same packet - less chance of loosing those small parts! Some shout outs warning you that, for example, the center diff case is different than the F/R diffs as well as the correct orienations of certain parts would really have been appreciated.
Well I guess the MGT7 really is a perfect car if the only real complaint I heard is how the bags are packed. To me its perfect at least.
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Old 06-04-2016, 04:56 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by tc4basher
Well I guess the MGT7 really is a perfect car if the only real complaint I heard is how the bags are packed. To me its perfect at least.
Sorry, but after 30+ years of building and racing RC cars: poor instructions and poor packaging do not equal a PERFECT car!. Now that I've built a Mugen kit, I know what to look out for when building another. But I think this car will be easy to maintain (I've rebuilt it eough already) and should be awesome on the track if the results from Brownsville are any measure (only 3 ECO cars had 17 laps and 2 of them where MGT7s). In fact after the 2nd qualifier only one nitro car was qualified faster than the MGT7 ECO and it was a MGT7 nitro car.
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