R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Like Tree1Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 09-20-2016, 09:51 PM   #91
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Floresville, TX
Posts: 829
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lanky View Post
Has anyone come up with a good way to take some additional castor out of the front suspension? I'm running a 2mm shim on my diff housing to space the front shock tower forward, I've been thing about shaving the arms as well, but I dont want to run out of hinge pin room and create an excessive amount of pill wear..... I love everything else about the car, I hate when I run it hard I feel like I can push my serpent much faster into the corner.
Lanky check out the setup I posted earlier. The front inner A arms are shaved 2mm to take caster out. I haven't done this yet as my 1/8th scale track has closed until November (too hot in Brownville TX).
John Wallace2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2016, 03:32 PM   #92
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Floresville, TX
Posts: 829
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by John Wallace2 View Post
Lanky check out the setup I posted earlier. The front inner A arms are shaved 2mm to take caster out. I haven't done this yet as my 1/8th scale track has closed until November (too hot in Brownville TX).
I found a new track in Austin (N Control) where they also race 1/8th scale cars. I had so much success with scaling my 1/10th cars to set the tweak to near perfect (instead of that balance beam) and thus fixing slight on power loose conditions (thanks John Stranahan) that I thought I'd try it on my MGT7 - if you recall from earlier post that was the main issue I had with this car too: loose on power! I found that since I'm using a heavier battery (SMC6700) I added some weight to the other side and the tire weights and shock preloads all evened out. I just played with it in the driveway and street with old unprepared tires and I couldn't break the back end loose. I can't wait to get back to Austin and see how it handles. I may have to undo all the things I did to get the backend to hook up.
John Wallace2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2016, 09:48 AM   #93
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 87
Default

[QUOTE=John Wallace2;14664717]
Quote:
Originally Posted by rnelias View Post

p.s.: 2050 has more torque than 2250

/QUOTE]

That is surprising, a bigger and heavier motor (2250) designed for a bigger and heavier vehicle (truggy) having less torque. I suppose you have a source for your statement.
Sorry to barge in, didn't know how to ask any other way; I have a mgte coming and I know it needs a new motor mount! Where can I get one that will allow big pinion gears? Building just for SR. Thanks
irish177 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2016, 12:26 PM   #94
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Bay Area, Cali
Posts: 595
Default

[QUOTE=irish177;14708042]
Quote:
Originally Posted by John Wallace2 View Post
Sorry to barge in, didn't know how to ask any other way; I have a mgte coming and I know it needs a new motor mount! Where can I get one that will allow big pinion gears? Building just for SR. Thanks
HPI Vorza mount can fit I've heard.
tc4basher is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2016, 02:07 PM   #95
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 89
Default

[QUOTE=irish177;14708042]
Quote:
Originally Posted by John Wallace2 View Post
Sorry to barge in, didn't know how to ask any other way; I have a mgte coming and I know it needs a new motor mount! Where can I get one that will allow big pinion gears? Building just for SR. Thanks
The stock mount is fine, it can accommodate 1:1 gearing and much higher if you decide to!
MallenP30 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2016, 05:43 AM   #96
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 89
Default

I've been looking into getting the front and rear universals, does anybody know if they're a direct drop in or will I also need to get the aluminum uprights as well?
MallenP30 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-2016, 06:21 PM   #97
Tech Addict
 
invrtd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: SoCal
Posts: 739
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Default

You will need the correct Front and Rear hubs for different bearing.
MUGE2129
MUGE2131
__________________
SWEEP RACING-----M2C-----TKO BEARINGS-----RW MODS----BELLGATE DISTRIBUTORS
HB D815/E817/D817T/D413
TLR 22T 2.0
invrtd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2016, 08:44 PM   #98
Tech Apprentice
 
icecyc1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 74
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tc4basher View Post
Anyone notice their center CVD joint cups getting too hot to even touch for more than 3-5 seconds after just a few minutes of use or bursts of acceleration? I been trying to figure this out the entire time Ive had the car pretty much. I know it's normal for them to eventually get hot after usage and it could just be because my MGT7 is a speed run car that runs on mostly 8s usually making at least 12-13 HP depending on what motor I run.

I tried putting ceramic bearings in there and I leave a small amount of play between the bearing and cvd joint. My diffs are shimmed properly and not binding whatsoever. I oil the bearings often too. I have tried the MBX7 style universal shaft as well.

This problem has been bothering me every since I've gotten into 1/8 scale GTs and also happened on my OFNA GTP2E, Kyosho Inferno GT2, and Mugen MBX7.

Anyone with any idea why or have any suggestions?
I have a guess as I have noticed the center diff hubs getting quite warm/hot on my MBX7r Eco, temping them at 125+ degF after driving on a dirt off-road track.

I think it's just heat transfer from the motor itself. I thought it might have been the center diff getting warm due to excess spinning/diffing, but I put heavier oil in and it was still hot. Then it dawned on me that there is a direct metal to metal contact from the motor, to the motor mount, through the bearings, and into the hubs which would make for good heat conduction... heat that comes from the motor. Does this make sense to you? Given that you are running huge power through your motor, it probably gets hot quick, and will heat up anything that touches it.
__________________
Cheers,
Shock Dyno Test Results: https://sites.google.com/site/rccarengineering/home
icecyc1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-14-2016, 10:17 PM   #99
Tech Regular
 
statton iv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: san antonio,tx 78233
Posts: 367
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by invrtd View Post
You will need the correct Front and Rear hubs for different bearing.
MUGE2129
MUGE2131
no- u dont need new hubs. the ones it comes with will use the bigger rear bearing for the universals.
__________________
Thank you to my 2017 sponsors:
Dialed rc, Mugen USA,Reds racing USA ,Rchqhobbies.com

Al Statton iv
210 849 7279
statton iv is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-15-2016, 11:48 PM   #100
Tech Apprentice
 
icecyc1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 74
Default

I have a couple questions I hope someone can educate me on. I've converted my MBX7Reco to the MGT7 platform, and this is my first time trying out on-road. I will admit most of my on-road driving will be in a parking lot, not racing. I'm using the on-road platform to help me learn differences in setup parameters a little easier than off road.

1) While trying to set up the car to the kit setup sheet (droop, ride height, etc.) I notice that the springs will be loose if I set the ride height to 9mm and 10mm when the suspension is at full droop (droop as set according to kit setup sheet). Are the springs "supposed" to be loose? This wouldn't make sense to me because if you set your droop for body roll limits, having a "dead zone" of spring tension just before that limit would cause a sudden stiffness change as it reaches that droop limit. I would think that to be undesirable.

2) What is the general rule or starting point for setting body height? Bottom edge of body = bottom of chassis?
__________________
Cheers,
Shock Dyno Test Results: https://sites.google.com/site/rccarengineering/home
icecyc1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-16-2016, 06:12 AM   #101
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Floresville, TX
Posts: 829
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by icecyc1 View Post
I have a couple questions I hope someone can educate me on. I've converted my MBX7Reco to the MGT7 platform, and this is my first time trying out on-road. I will admit most of my on-road driving will be in a parking lot, not racing. I'm using the on-road platform to help me learn differences in setup parameters a little easier than off road.

1) While trying to set up the car to the kit setup sheet (droop, ride height, etc.) I notice that the springs will be loose if I set the ride height to 9mm and 10mm when the suspension is at full droop (droop as set according to kit setup sheet). Are the springs "supposed" to be loose? This wouldn't make sense to me because if you set your droop for body roll limits, having a "dead zone" of spring tension just before that limit would cause a sudden stiffness change as it reaches that droop limit. I would think that to be undesirable.

2) What is the general rule or starting point for setting body height? Bottom edge of body = bottom of chassis?
1. I don't recall that being a problem with mine but I don't have that car anymore so I cannot check (mine wasn't a conversion so I assume you are using MGT7 shocks, towers, and springs in your converted car). I took my car back down to Brownsville and had RCDOC (his setup - a combination of kit stock and Adam Drake) go over it and he suggested taking out some droop from the stock settings. I use the droop more for F/R weight transfer adjustments (particularly under braking) than for controlling roll.

2. Pretty much what I do but in any case the body cannot be below the ride height requirement at your track.

Last edited by John Wallace2; 12-16-2016 at 06:35 AM.
John Wallace2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2017, 02:46 PM   #102
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 450
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Anyone use Steel Spur gear on MGT7 Eco from MBX7 ? Does it fit?
__________________
Min. K

Fight on-
TEKNO EB48.35 / EB48.3
kms7852 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2017, 12:56 PM   #103
Tech Master
 
trixter91's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Tom Cruises stunt double.
Posts: 1,936
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default BUILDING THE REAR UNIVERSALS ON THE MUGEN MGT7 ECHO

Anybody know on page 6 when building both sets of universals E0222 into E0221 the slide joint shaft CO264 that holds the universals together dosent show a set screw to go in the side so the pin wont fall out. They used a setscrew on page 4 when building the same one. Any thoughts.
Attached Thumbnails
MUGEN MGT7 Super Touring ECO-20170122_145845.jpg  
__________________
Steve Larson
Team Associated
Silky smooth driving techniques
With qualities that women respond to
Sexy since 1974
trixter91 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2017, 05:31 PM   #104
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 11
Default

No set screw needed. The bearing will holds the pin in place.
rabosi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2017, 06:09 PM   #105
Tech Master
 
trixter91's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Tom Cruises stunt double.
Posts: 1,936
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Really. Its threaded so i figured it needed a set screw.
__________________
Steve Larson
Team Associated
Silky smooth driving techniques
With qualities that women respond to
Sexy since 1974
trixter91 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 08:23 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net