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Old 05-04-2015, 12:21 AM   #46
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Oh, gear problems.
Well only 1 picture, who knows the details?
By the way, since is gear car, i think is not easy to beat belt cars like FF12 and FF Pro.
well I noticed from the photo they only installed the springs, but not the
"yellow" dampers...
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Old 05-04-2015, 02:56 AM   #47
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well I noticed from the photo they only installed the springs, but not the
"yellow" dampers...
Then?
I could see the picture is not so clear.
What is your conclusion?
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Old 05-04-2015, 03:19 AM   #48
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There are dampers, at least at the rear axle. Not the yellow friction thingies, but the aluminium Oil-filled dampers.

Btw, are these any good?
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Old 05-04-2015, 10:51 AM   #49
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Just want to share possible solution to the gear chewing issue. I used to have and race this car a few years back when the mini class just started at my local club (the class is still alive but I m not into it anymore).

- Usual culprit to the counter gears problem are the bearings on the shaft. The bearings are too small of a size and wears out quickly. When the bearings get a bit sloppy and not smooth they will eat the aluminium shaft thus the shaft will wobble a bit when rotating. Since the counter gears are attach at both end of the shaft, they will not mesh properly with either the diff side (inside) or the spur gear side (outside) during operation and get chewed up. When you encounter this problem replace the bearings and the shaft both altogether because when you replace just either one the problem will occur again in no time. What I did last time, I stuffed both the bearings with hi temp bearing grease and also put some of the grease on the shaft while assembling it. I repeat this after running it 5-6 packs of batteries and in the race I do this once before the heat rounds and once before the final rounds. After doing this I never encountered the gears chewing issue anymore. For those who have changed to steel counter gears, in my experience that will not solved the issue, i never had success with the steel gears even if I have done the bearing grease trick that I mentioned.

- Other issue that I found out about this car was the gear diff problem. If you have internal gears of the gear diff chewed up frequently, the culprit is the gasket. Assuming you assemble the gear diff correctly, check the gasket.....some of the gasket are a bit thick so when you screw in the diff top, the gears inside are very sloppy and get chewed up after 1 or 2 runs.

- My local club run this class using 10.5t non boosted and this car can handle this power with no problem, you just need to do frequent maintainance as I describe above. I hope this help you guys out and solve the issue.
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Old 05-04-2015, 10:57 AM   #50
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dameetz- Great info on the shaft and bearing! Thanks for sharing. I am sure this will be valuable info for other folks too.
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Old 05-04-2015, 02:01 PM   #51
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dameetz- Great info on the shaft and bearing! Thanks for sharing. I am sure this will be valuable info for other folks too.
Yes thanks for the info I was going to have a steel spur gear made up for ball diff but will take the advice above and try that
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Old 05-05-2015, 12:41 AM   #52
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Originally Posted by dameetz View Post
Just want to share possible solution to the gear chewing issue. I used to have and race this car a few years back when the mini class just started at my local club (the class is still alive but I m not into it anymore).

- Usual culprit to the counter gears problem are the bearings on the shaft. The bearings are too small of a size and wears out quickly. When the bearings get a bit sloppy and not smooth they will eat the aluminium shaft thus the shaft will wobble a bit when rotating. Since the counter gears are attach at both end of the shaft, they will not mesh properly with either the diff side (inside) or the spur gear side (outside) during operation and get chewed up. When you encounter this problem replace the bearings and the shaft both altogether because when you replace just either one the problem will occur again in no time. What I did last time, I stuffed both the bearings with hi temp bearing grease and also put some of the grease on the shaft while assembling it. I repeat this after running it 5-6 packs of batteries and in the race I do this once before the heat rounds and once before the final rounds. After doing this I never encountered the gears chewing issue anymore. For those who have changed to steel counter gears, in my experience that will not solved the issue, i never had success with the steel gears even if I have done the bearing grease trick that I mentioned.

- Other issue that I found out about this car was the gear diff problem. If you have internal gears of the gear diff chewed up frequently, the culprit is the gasket. Assuming you assemble the gear diff correctly, check the gasket.....some of the gasket are a bit thick so when you screw in the diff top, the gears inside are very sloppy and get chewed up after 1 or 2 runs.

- My local club run this class using 10.5t non boosted and this car can handle this power with no problem, you just need to do frequent maintainance as I describe above. I hope this help you guys out and solve the issue.
Thanks for the heads up! this means we need to keep some additional 850 bearings... since they are on the "inside" less prone to direct impacts (unlike the ones on the wheels) does it means getting ceramic bearings might make it last longer? or would it be the same?

About the gaskets - do mean 5 x 0.3 mm spacers and 3.5 x 0.2 mm spacers?


Also I am considering of running this car on a HobbyWing 120 XERUN 3.0 ESC that I have on the spare and want to run it 13.5T boosted and Turbo... do you think the car can handle it? Crazy as it sound I wanted to run tails with my frds driving 419s and T4s....
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Old 05-05-2015, 03:24 AM   #53
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Thanks for the heads up! this means we need to keep some additional 850 bearings... since they are on the "inside" less prone to direct impacts (unlike the ones on the wheels) does it means getting ceramic bearings might make it last longer? or would it be the same?

About the gaskets - do mean 5 x 0.3 mm spacers and 3.5 x 0.2 mm spacers?


Also I am considering of running this car on a HobbyWing 120 XERUN 3.0 ESC that I have on the spare and want to run it 13.5T boosted and Turbo... do you think the car can handle it? Crazy as it sound I wanted to run tails with my frds driving 419s and T4s....
Yes, keep a pair or two of the 850 bearings as well as the alum shaft and the counter gears. I ve tried ceramic berings before it was the same, however I have doubt of the quality of the ceramic bearings that I bought. If you can get a very hi quality ones it may be possible. Having said this the normal bearings are fine if you do the grease trick frequently.

The gasket is the paper gasket that you put on the diff top half. Use the metal spacers as per the instruction manual.

Using boosted 13.5t..... I have seen my mate's car using 5.5t motor boosted....it held fine for a 1 or 2 runs before the usual gear problem occured.....and he was not that faster anyway in lap timing due to more wheelspin and blew his tyres due over wheelspin. Here as I mentioned we are using 10.5t non boosted with max gearing using 30t or 31t pinion there are already plenty fast and in the right hands can challenge an average TC car.
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Old 05-05-2015, 09:05 PM   #54
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Yes, keep a pair or two of the 850 bearings as well as the alum shaft and the counter gears. I ve tried ceramic berings before it was the same, however I have doubt of the quality of the ceramic bearings that I bought. If you can get a very hi quality ones it may be possible. Having said this the normal bearings are fine if you do the grease trick frequently.

The gasket is the paper gasket that you put on the diff top half. Use the metal spacers as per the instruction manual.

Using boosted 13.5t..... I have seen my mate's car using 5.5t motor boosted....it held fine for a 1 or 2 runs before the usual gear problem occured.....and he was not that faster anyway in lap timing due to more wheelspin and blew his tyres due over wheelspin. Here as I mentioned we are using 10.5t non boosted with max gearing using 30t or 31t pinion there are already plenty fast and in the right hands can challenge an average TC car.
Thanks Dameetz! Last night I switched over to my spare HW XERUN 120A v3.0 with SkyRC Toro 13.5T sensored motor... (ESC setting: Boost lowest Turbo lowest) Running on 24t Pinion... Total different feel from my nonsensored HW 13T motor with HW WP80A ESC)

Will shoot some photos later tonight as I returned to the track! maybe some video

Hopefully chasing 419s and T4s will not make my gears go to hell

Dameetz.. the grease routine won't be a very much hassle since it has to take out the gear box every night to maintenance?
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Old 05-07-2015, 08:58 AM   #55
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[YOUTUBE]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ob0TIk161oc[/YOUTUBE]

As promised here is a video @ my local track - PYC
ESC: HobbyWing XERUN v3
Motor: SkyRC Ares Competition 13.5T
Pinion: 24T
Gear mod: Steel Shafts and Metal Idle Gears (20T & 25T)
Motor Plate: ABC Options Alum Motor Plate (2.5cm)
Springs: Front: ABC Blue / Rear: ABC Yellow
Tires: 30 Deg Yeah Racing Foam Tires

Timing: Fastest lap this evening @ 21.523 sec

Last edited by otaku521; 05-07-2015 at 09:00 AM. Reason: Added Tires Data
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Old 05-09-2015, 06:02 AM   #56
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Nice video I ran my out of box spare car with only a ball diff added 1 degree camber front and rear.kit springs front yellow rear anti wear grease in stock dampers sweep 33 front and sweep 25 rear with tamiya mini shell it ran better than my fully upgraded race car with gear diff in it I would recommend the ball diff over the gear diff going to put ball diff in race car and see if I can get it to handle like my out of box spare
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Old 05-12-2015, 01:36 PM   #57
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Dear Sjminiman

Any more detail report about ball diff? I am seriously considering it... how is it different?
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Old 05-12-2015, 02:38 PM   #58
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Yes had ball diff in for three race meeting had no issues with it it has been consistent through all races I found it better than gear diff as it has not leaked and covered gears in 50000 weight diff oil I have used 30000 weight oil in gear diff as I need drive out of corners to suit my drive style at our club there is a good mixture of m03, m05, m05 v11 ,m06;and top sabre minis the the grid mixes it up with all of these and my driving is only average I prefer ball diff over gear diff with no failures as yet.

Last edited by sjminiman; 05-12-2015 at 02:43 PM. Reason: forgot m06
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Old 05-26-2015, 02:40 AM   #59
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Dear Sjminiman

what oil you using on your ball diff? As I know that the ball diff kit does not come with any oil... so far I am using Antiwear Grease as it is what I have on hand other than normal 2000 / 3000 cst diff oil. any suggestions?

Thanks!
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Old 05-26-2015, 12:18 PM   #60
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Dear Sjminiman

what oil you using on your ball diff? As I know that the ball diff kit does not come with any oil... so far I am using Antiwear Grease as it is what I have on hand other than normal 2000 / 3000 cst diff oil. any suggestions?

Thanks!
Hi I load thrust bearing with anti wear grease and place the balls in a poly bag with the grease that comes with the diff bolt upgrade kit cover the balls in grease then build diff as instructions I also use the upgraded bolt and add threadlocked to nylock and superglue nylock into plastic nut holder
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