Many kinds of RC screws. Which is best?
#1
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Many kinds of RC screws. Which is best?
Hello to all.
Nowadays there are so many kinds of hop-up screws in the market. Titanium, 7075 Aluminum, stainless steel, 10.9 stainless steel, etc.
Of course, I choose not to stick with stock screws specially if they have the philips head.
My question is, which would be the most sensible, cost effective choice that one take in terms of durability (not stripping) and weight. Some screw kits are a bit pricey but are they worth the money or is it more on the bling side.
Regards!
Nowadays there are so many kinds of hop-up screws in the market. Titanium, 7075 Aluminum, stainless steel, 10.9 stainless steel, etc.
Of course, I choose not to stick with stock screws specially if they have the philips head.
My question is, which would be the most sensible, cost effective choice that one take in terms of durability (not stripping) and weight. Some screw kits are a bit pricey but are they worth the money or is it more on the bling side.
Regards!
#2
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Have a look through your kit manual and get a list of everything you need.
Try the fastener suppliers like http://www.microfasteners.com/
Buying this way can be cheaper than the pre-assembled kits sometimes. Plus, you can control the quality a bit better. Some of the offshore screws can be a bit dodgy.
Try the fastener suppliers like http://www.microfasteners.com/
Buying this way can be cheaper than the pre-assembled kits sometimes. Plus, you can control the quality a bit better. Some of the offshore screws can be a bit dodgy.
#3
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Have a look through your kit manual and get a list of everything you need.
Try the fastener suppliers like http://www.microfasteners.com/
Buying this way can be cheaper than the pre-assembled kits sometimes. Plus, you can control the quality a bit better. Some of the offshore screws can be a bit dodgy.
Try the fastener suppliers like http://www.microfasteners.com/
Buying this way can be cheaper than the pre-assembled kits sometimes. Plus, you can control the quality a bit better. Some of the offshore screws can be a bit dodgy.
#4
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Hands down - the best RC screws you can get for your car is a Hiro Seiko screw set. You will put the titanium screws in the bottom of your chassis and aluminum screws everywhere else in the car. Click on this link and take a look at the HS screw sets.
#5
Stainless sucks. Do not use if you can avoid it. Unless your car is way overweight, stick with good old black oxide steel screws under the chassis. Why take weight of the bottom of the car just to stick weight on top of it? For weight and cg reduction, go aluminum or titanium for the top of the car screws.
#6
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Hands down - the best RC screws you can get for your car is a Hiro Seiko screw set. You will put the titanium screws in the bottom of your chassis and aluminum screws everywhere else in the car. Click on this link and take a look at the HS screw sets.
#7
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Stainless sucks. Do not use if you can avoid it. Unless your car is way overweight, stick with good old black oxide steel screws under the chassis. Why take weight of the bottom of the car just to stick weight on top of it? For weight and cg reduction, go aluminum or titanium for the top of the car screws.
#8
#10
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How resistant is aluminum hardware to stripping?
Back in the day, we only used them for screws that wouldn't see much wrench time, due to the heads being easy to strip.
I'd like to replace the hardware in my TB-04, and assumed I'd go with stainless steel. But would aluminum be durable enough to survive being used in places like gear cases, which can see a lot of repeat use? I can't afford titanium at this point, and i've heard that titanium can strip fairly easily too.
Back in the day, we only used them for screws that wouldn't see much wrench time, due to the heads being easy to strip.
I'd like to replace the hardware in my TB-04, and assumed I'd go with stainless steel. But would aluminum be durable enough to survive being used in places like gear cases, which can see a lot of repeat use? I can't afford titanium at this point, and i've heard that titanium can strip fairly easily too.
#12
You need good drivers. MIP would be my choice. Any screw that sees constant use you should either use steel or titanium or one with a head larger that 2mm. For instance, you might be able to replace a 3mm or 4-40 button head with a cap head (2.5mm wrench or whatever that standard size is).
#13
#14
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You need good drivers. MIP would be my choice. Any screw that sees constant use you should either use steel or titanium or one with a head larger that 2mm. For instance, you might be able to replace a 3mm or 4-40 button head with a cap head (2.5mm wrench or whatever that standard size is).
Good drivers are a must! And you don't have to spend a ton of money on Hudy drivers. MIP are good drivers and so are these Align hex drivers in the pic below.
#15
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