ry_100

iTrader: (2)

Hi guys,

I have a corally 10sl 1/10 235mm pan car with a 6.5 tekin motor and Hobbywing XErun 90a v2.1.

I have calibrated the radio time and time again but the brakes don't seem to work when the chassis is on the ground.

In the air as soon as i hit the brakes the wheels stops dead as expected, but on the ground the car rolls like it's in neutral. For that reason surely it can't be the radio.

Is it my gearing? I'm running 66t/36t 48dp gears. But previously in my CRC pan car i had the same problem running a higher teeth spur gear and smaller pinion?

Any Help guys :s

Smithracer11

iTrader: (5)

Program the brake strength in the esc.

ry_100

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for replying. I have the program card and i been making changes. All braking options are turned up, even drag which i don't even want. The effects however are only seen when the wheels are spinning in the air.

Once the car is back on the ground, the car rolls like it's in neutral.

Do you think it may be the motor has gone? It the esc is doing everything i ask of it in terms of programming. It's just the motor only seems to be able to do it when the wheel are off the ground.

I compared it to my touring car when in the ait and the brakes do seem a bit sharper on there than my pan car.

OrganicMechanic

iTrader: (35)

Is there is an adjustment when using the program card to turn up the reverse strength? If yes, do so.

This is necessary on the Hobbywing ESCs I own.

LloydLoar

iTrader: (20)

This isn't correct. When you are braking with the car off of the ground, the only forces you are acting against when braking are the momentum of the spinning axle with tires, etc. When you are braking on track, the brakes are also acting against the forward momentum of the ~1000g vehicle that want to keep that rear axle turning. If it helps it 'click', think of situations where the braking force overcomes the coefficient of friction between the racing surface and the rear tires - this can't happen in your test. Clearly your scenario where you are testing brakes with the car elevated is a more isolated system and thus not a good indicator of braking strength.

Make sure your radio is set to have maximum braking strength by ensuring the radio is calibrated to the ESC with both full throttle and full brake set to 100%. Then turn down your braking strength as appropriate so the rear end doesn't break loose when you use push brake.

oeoeo327

iTrader: (75)

+1 - turn up the braking strength in the ESC to 100%, and reverse strength to 100% (even if you're not using it). Turn up the initial brake setting as far as you can (cutoff is 40%, IIRC).

Bear in mind that even with these settings, brakes will still be very weak. good luck.

ry_100

iTrader: (2)

I just turned the reverse strenght up 100% and no difference, I can only think it's the motor :S

ry_100

iTrader: (2)

I have the EPA on my transmitter set to 150% which is the max both before and after calibrating. I calibrated as it said to in the manual such as reversing the throttle direct. I tried it without reversing. I tried calibrating the esc with a variety of epa settings but same still nothing.

At the moment I have drag brake force at 100%, brake force at 100%, reverse force at 100% - even though I'm running forward and brake, initial brake force is set at 40% which is the max. And still the car rolls like it's in neutral on the ground.

Is it possible that the motor can be worn out?

oeoeo327

iTrader: (75)

Recalibrate the ESC using an EPA value of 100, not 150. make sure throttle trim is @ neutral as well. Brakes should work after recalibrating at that value.

ry_100

iTrader: (2)

Hi, I tried that earlier, tried it again now and the same thing, car rolls like it's in neutral. I even tried turning it back up to 150% and no difference

oeoeo327

iTrader: (75)

Not sure why that set of troubleshooting steps didn't work... FWIW, when I used that ESC, I always made my programming changes using a laptop, not a programming box. Perhaps there's a difference.

One final question - how fast is the car rolling when you engage the brakes? If you're not moving fast enough, you won't generate much in the way of braking force.

Regardless of whatever method finally yields a positive result, the brakes will always be weak using this ESC.

ry_100

iTrader: (2)

Okay thanks for your help guys, I just have a feeling the motor is a bit worn, it's not exactly new.

Luckily this esc and motor are just temps whilst I wait for my speed passion pro to get fixed under warranty and my other 4.5 Novak motor is over the limit for the Hobbywing esc I have.

LloydLoar

iTrader: (20)

I think that with your gear ratio you will never have great braking performance, as that ratio seems really high - especially for a mod motor. I would really recommend trying a pinion in the 22-25T range for a motor like that - with the same spur.

Josh-n-ya

iTrader: (95)

I had similar experience. I ended up setting radio to default for that receiver. Cleared everything up and was able to get full throttle and my brakes back.

Skiddins

This

no-run runs gearing that tall even in stock blinky.

What's your rollout?