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Old 02-11-2015, 02:36 PM   #1
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Default Looking to get into competitive onroad racing. Need help!

Hi there guys, was looking for some help on choosing a brand of car and class and which will make me better?

I have been racing offroad for about 5+ years and am sponsored by companies from offroad, I race the entire Kyosho cars, and I recently asked the Kyosho team manager if I could run a different brand touring car and they said whatever I want because they don't have a competition level touring kit in the USA. So I decided to make the step and try something new!

The cars I have looked at and I really thought of:

Xray T4 2015

AE TC6.2 FT

Yokomo BD7 Black Series

DETC410

Serpent S411


Pan cars I was looking at:

Xray X12

CRC WC

RC12R5.2

I basically named out all the good ones...lmao, I am wanting to choose a touring car first then go to 1/12. I need help choosing the best car durability wise and performance wise. the 3 that I am really strong about are Xray, AE and Yokomo.

What I need help choosing:

Futaba servo

Protoform body

Kit

Any tools in particular I will need???

Thanks a lot guys! This will be a fun learning curve for me!
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Old 02-11-2015, 03:09 PM   #2
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Can't go wrong with Xray or Yokomo.
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Old 02-11-2015, 03:10 PM   #3
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T4 15, BD7 2015, 419 and D07 are IMO the best 4 TC available.

The 419 is a bit fragile but the other 3 are all very strong cars.

Buy which has the best local parts support.
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Old 02-11-2015, 04:33 PM   #4
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The Xray will be the strongest hands down. If you look carefully you'll often see Yokomos with Xray steering blocks on at the track. You can't go wrong with a Protoform MazdaSpeed 6 and a Futaba 9551 servo. Probably one of the most common choices for a reason.
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Old 02-12-2015, 04:50 PM   #5
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If money and getting parts is not a problem get a x-ray for sure. If money and getting parts is a problem get a tc6.2. The Tc6.2 is the best bang for your buck car in the world and is what I personally run. For the pan cars the 12r5.2 is amazing! The speed merchant cars and x-ray are also very good. You will need a setup station and setup board as well as a tire truer (if your local track doesn't have one). For the classes they are completely different. Touring is more of a brake and turn type of thing where pan cars are gas the hell out of it. I recommend touring due to personal preference, but they are harder to setup and more to worry about. I also recommend Orion motors. Look at TQrcracing.com they have all the high end models and everything you need, Good Luck!
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Old 02-12-2015, 11:50 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by DamianW View Post

The 419 is a bit fragile but the other 3 are all very strong cars.
Fragile? Serious?
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Old 02-13-2015, 03:28 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DamianW View Post
T4 15, BD7 2015, 419 and D07 are IMO the best 4 TC available.

The 419 is a bit fragile but the other 3 are all very strong cars.

Buy which has the best local parts support.
Have to disagree with this statement. Most hobby shops carry little TC parts now a days. So online ordering is the simplest way of getting parts. So that means get whatever car you wish based on what you like. You named all quality cars. Won't matter which one you buy. And there are so many more that will get you around the track just as fast for less. Like the TOP saber.

Tamiya cars are actually very durable. You won't have a problem with durability. I'm not an X-ray fan, but their plastics are the best.
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Old 02-13-2015, 03:51 AM   #8
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I'm not an X-ray fan, but their plastics are the best.
They are also by far the dearest.

C Hubs
yokomo - $8 pr
TRF - $7 pr
Xray - $8.50 ea!

Arms
Yokomo - $10 pr
TRF - $8 pr
Xray - $8.50 ea!!
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Old 02-13-2015, 03:22 PM   #9
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Quote:
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They are also by far the dearest.

C Hubs
yokomo - $8 pr
TRF - $7 pr
Xray - $8.50 ea!

Arms
Yokomo - $10 pr
TRF - $8 pr
Xray - $8.50 ea!!
I'm amazed how this is always brought up & yet never put into context, I have owned other brands cars but that was more for comparison purposes, none of which have been kept for long.

I've used Xray's since 2007 On-Road (from novice) and in all that time have only broken one front arm (crash into iron pole) & one rear hub (on carpet)

Perhaps it's just luck,
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Old 02-13-2015, 03:42 PM   #10
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Fragile? Serious?
Off topic but you took the words out of my mouth. I suck and have yet to break a single part on this car, no lie. People that see me drive, see me hit the boards.

Go with any of the top 4 you mentioned. They are all great cars. Futaba or KO servos are great.
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Old 02-13-2015, 04:04 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Juan Aveytia View Post
Have to disagree with this statement. Most hobby shops carry little TC parts now a days. So online ordering is the simplest way of getting parts. So that means get whatever car you wish based on what you like. You named all quality cars. Won't matter which one you buy. And there are so many more that will get you around the track just as fast for less. Like the TOP saber.

Tamiya cars are actually very durable. You won't have a problem with durability. I'm not an X-ray fan, but their plastics are the best.
Where did you order your Sabre Sir?
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Old 02-13-2015, 04:43 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by zucati View Post
The Tc6.2 is the best bang for your buck car in the world and is what I personally run.

Now way. At only $250 from HRP, the Team C TC10 takes that honor.


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Old 02-13-2015, 05:07 PM   #13
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The high price of X-Ray plastics don't bother me that much....because they hardly break and hardly get sloppy. The only plastic part I broke in a race on my X-Ray T4 in nearly 2 years of driving was a rear hub. And that day, I strapped in a mod motor and had a spectacular crash.

Tamiya plastic is not as nice as X-ray, but a little lighter. If you have a recent TRF car, just stock up on C-hubs, the rest of the suspension is fairly robust and I've taken some hard hits. I've ran thru some races since last summer on my 418 and only broke two C-hubs, and bent one turnbuckle.
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Old 02-13-2015, 09:39 PM   #14
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Where did you order your Sabre Sir?
You can usually get them here: http://www.apexhobbies.com/ or here: http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=7748

Great car!
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Old 02-13-2015, 11:51 PM   #15
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TAnita plastic is not as nice as X-ray, but a little lighter. If you have a recent TRF car, just stock up on C-hubs, the rest of the suspension is fairly robust and I've taken some hard hits. I've ran thru some races since last summer on my 418 and only broke two C-hubs, and bent one turnbuckle.
I've broken 1 chub and an arm plus bent a turnbuckle in about a year. At the same time. And it was a BIG hit into a wall.

On the lightness bit - yup. We weighed my 419 and my mates T4/15 (with ARS) a week or so ago and he was 100g plus heavier. Might have even been 150. His batteries were 6500's vs my 6000's and I've got lightweight scress but that's about 40g worth I think.
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