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Old 01-16-2015, 05:15 PM   #31
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Cristian, would using offset hexes help widen the rear track or would it be too wide?
Offset hubs have the same effect as hex spacers. You are just pushing your wheels out, so yes, they would work.

Damian, looking at my car, I am running a 1mm xray plastic spacer on the outside with a captured (old style steering) ball. On the inside, I have no shims on the ARS linkage.

Behind the wheels I am usually using a 0.5 or 1mm shim on each side. Lately the grip has been high so I have been running 1mm. I can't repeat myself enough times when I say that this is so important. Without the shims the car is inconsistent and hard to drive. With them, it is balanced and smooth.
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Old 01-16-2015, 09:49 PM   #32
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Cristian, would using offset hexes help widen the rear track or would it be too wide?
If it's out by 2mm then the wider hexes would probably be better than using shims to help prevent them cutting into the inside of the wheels.
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Old 01-16-2015, 10:29 PM   #33
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what static toe degree do you recommend if i am getting 1 degree increase with ats? 1 degree or more static toe?
Also should the track width be the same front and rear of car?
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Old 01-17-2015, 09:33 AM   #34
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If you are gaining 1 degree I would start at aroud 2 degrees of static toe. Track width typically is set at around 188-189 in front and 185-187 in the rear. So typically the cars are marginally wider in front.
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Old 01-17-2015, 10:15 AM   #35
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thanks Cristian!
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Old 01-17-2015, 01:26 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
Offset hubs have the same effect as hex spacers. You are just pushing your wheels out, so yes, they would work.

Damian, looking at my car, I am running a 1mm xray plastic spacer on the outside with a captured (old style steering) ball. On the inside, I have no shims on the ARS linkage.

Behind the wheels I am usually using a 0.5 or 1mm shim on each side. Lately the grip has been high so I have been running 1mm. I can't repeat myself enough times when I say that this is so important. Without the shims the car is inconsistent and hard to drive. With them, it is balanced and smooth.
Great tip, it'll be another couple of months before it's warm enough in the UK for proper testing, but I'll definitely give it a go with some spacing to keep it stable. Thanks!
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Old 01-30-2015, 06:03 AM   #37
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Hi,

Is anyone tried to setup ARS in a way that it gains more toe-in while being compressed?

The main idea is, that you can setup the base toe-in to be quite loose, have a lot of turn-in, but as soon as you punch the throttle, the rear-end compresses and you have more toe-in until the car settles.
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Old 01-30-2015, 06:52 AM   #38
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Hi,

Is anyone tried to setup ARS in a way that it gains more toe-in while being compressed?

The main idea is, that you can setup the base toe-in to be quite loose, have a lot of turn-in, but as soon as you punch the throttle, the rear-end compresses and you have more toe-in until the car settles.
By default that's what happens with the 1mm shim on the hub ARS link.

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Old 01-30-2015, 04:26 PM   #39
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I thought it's used on asphalt with a lot of base toe-in which makes the rear planted and set up in a way to lose toe-in when the suspension compresses (accelerating out of corner), gaining more steering.
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Old 01-30-2015, 05:31 PM   #40
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I thought it's used on asphalt with a lot of base toe-in which makes the rear planted and set up in a way to lose toe-in when the suspension compresses (accelerating out of corner), gaining more steering.
Apparently some drivers prefer it one way and some drivers the other way. But as I recall the kit setup will add a very small amount of toe in under compression, 0.2deg or something
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