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Old 12-02-2015, 03:36 PM   #46
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Are you using the rubber seal or did you upgrade to the diff gasket?
http://www.egrracing.com/shop/index....oducts_id=4296



I think I'm gonna give the gasket a try and save my sanity on the next rebuild, ha!

I had the inverse problem when building the shocks where the o-rings for the spring load caps took me about 5 minutes each of fussing and pinching to finally get those suckers in place too, but they weren't nearly as challenging as the diff:

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Old 12-03-2015, 06:12 AM   #47
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Hi,
Will the R2 shock towers fit the R1 as I am looking at upgrading my R1 with the R2 shocks & towers......
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Old 12-03-2015, 08:23 AM   #48
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Yes they will.
I'd stick with r1 shocks though with yokomo orings and bladders.. lowered towers ok.
The r2 shocjs though sexy require a lot more attention, particularly concerning the bladders.
R2 shafts will fit the r1 shocks though. Good pairing with the shorter towers. Consider using r1 rear tower depending on droop/rideheight requirements
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Old 12-03-2015, 04:54 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by singary View Post
then, the front and rear bulkhead install, in between the left and right bulkhead is 22mm, in the photos showing how I try do make it properly and make the gap is 22mm.

1-I'll start to install the left rear bulkhead, and will pair it with a hudy block, try to make it strsight.
2-prepare 2 10mm block and 2 1mm spacer, set it together to be a '22mm tools'
3-put that 'tools' in betwen left and right bulkhead while install the right rear bulkhead, that's can help to install it easy in 22mm.
4-use a steel ruler pair with the rear bulkhead to install the left front bulkhead.
5-do it in the same way of the rear right bulkhead with that 'tools'
Did I miss some thing? I thought I saw pre-drilled holes.There seems to be a lot of measuring going on here.
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Old 12-04-2015, 01:09 AM   #50
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Specr comes in januari with a 1/12 touring car mini see a first foto on facebook looks good
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Old 12-04-2015, 03:59 AM   #51
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I was a bit frustrated with my first day of racing this car. My rear diff leaked all over the chassis and made a big mess plus the diff just felt too tight (even after it was empty). It took me 4 tries before I finally got lucky with getting that annoying rubber o-ring diff seal to properly seat in place. I had to spend about 20 minutes stretching it out and eventually got it to stay in place with some green grease. I think the seal kept popping out of place and would bind with the planetary gears, but now there's no leak and diff is buttery smooth. All I can say is that I'm definitely NOT looking forward to rebuilding this diff anytime soon





As far as handling/performance goes, the car is a dream to drive and no regrets buying it.
Hi! Check manual and o-ring position. Spec-R HD diff works perfect and have zero leaks. Also, diff cups are the most durable that I tested for TC.



Visit my blog and watch my assembly of R2, with some tips (in Spanish) https://rcmachines.wordpress.com/category/spec-r-r2-2/

For R2 external o-ring on shocks, you can sand the o-ring. Insert o-ring on a cilinder and sand around the o-ring to make high regulation more easy.
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Old 12-04-2015, 09:07 AM   #52
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I might do a vid of how I assemble bulkheads but I basically do it as giles groskamp has posted. Lay everything out loosely and wiggle it, tighten a little, move transmission, tighten some more, feel for binding repeat. The only thing that needs to be proper is prob the inner suspebsion mounts. Ill use a t square on the straight chassis edge to set those square to the edge and in line with each other.
Front front and rear rear can be shimmed to suit for arm freeness.

Transmission doesn't have to be square or measured, just free from binding.
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Old 12-04-2015, 10:19 AM   #53
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Hi! Check manual and o-ring position.
If I understand what you're saying the seal should be tucked in as depicted on the pic on the left, not the way the user manual shows on the right:



If that's the case then I think they need to correct the illustration in the instructions with the arrows pointing up instead of down in the manual

Either way, thanks for the picture, that really helps!
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Old 12-04-2015, 10:34 AM   #54
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Heh. That's a brilliantly simple solution to a serious gripe for many! Ill have to try that next rebuild.
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Old 12-04-2015, 10:53 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billdelong View Post
If I understand what you're saying the seal should be tucked in as depicted on the pic on the left, not the way the user manual shows on the right:



If that's the case then I think they need to correct the illustration in the instructions with the arrows pointing up instead of down in the manual

Either way, thanks for the picture, that really helps!
Your way it's impossible to close diff properly, with or without grease. Case was designed with male-female joint.

This is the right way to put rubber o-ring seal:


Same on manual and photo

Nothing more than rubber seal, but on the right position.
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Old 12-04-2015, 12:56 PM   #56
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OMG... total face palm, the print was too small for me to see that the seal was supposed to go down to the base, I was trying to get it to stay on that damned lip which was near impossible, ha!

Thanks again for blowing up the diagram and showing how the seal should be placed. It must've finally rolled down the sides eventually on my last rebuild... doh!

I've built dozens of diffs and this is the first I've ever seen with a rubber seal, normally they use a gasket.
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Old 12-04-2015, 03:31 PM   #57
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Yes they will.
I'd stick with r1 shocks though with yokomo orings and bladders.. lowered towers ok.
The r2 shocjs though sexy require a lot more attention, particularly concerning the bladders.
R2 shafts will fit the r1 shocks though. Good pairing with the shorter towers. Consider using r1 rear tower depending on droop/rideheight requirements
thanks for that.....
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Old 12-05-2015, 09:40 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billdelong View Post
OMG... total face palm, the print was too small for me to see that the seal was supposed to go down to the base, I was trying to get it to stay on that damned lip which was near impossible, ha!

Thanks again for blowing up the diagram and showing how the seal should be placed. It must've finally rolled down the sides eventually on my last rebuild... doh!

I've built dozens of diffs and this is the first I've ever seen with a rubber seal, normally they use a gasket.
After many many many many many.....many many many hours of use, HD diff have more lasting and zero leaks, only with this thin o-ring.
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Old 12-05-2015, 09:42 AM   #59
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I put VBC TBB bladders on R2 shocks and works perfect!! Same XRAY T4 bladders.
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Old 12-05-2015, 10:30 AM   #60
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i wonder if the vbc inner caps would also work. the problem i found with them is the inner cap is too small for the bladder and can collapse into it distorting the shock.
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