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Old 10-05-2016, 07:00 AM   #556
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Sent Tony!

Guys, here's a setup sheet I made in case you wanted to use it.

I also have an Excel version you can customize but it won't let me upload it here, just email me and I'll push it to you. aaronmooreracing@gmail.com

RSD Racing RR12T2.pdf
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Old 10-05-2016, 01:44 PM   #557
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Got it...and thank you very much!
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Old 10-10-2016, 05:13 PM   #558
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Any idea when the next batch of T2 cars will be ready to ship?
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Old 10-10-2016, 10:04 PM   #559
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All the parts are ready Troy. I am shooting to get your car out either tomorrow or Wednesday. With the closing of the track and the move, it's been a bit hectic. Sorry abou the delay.
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Old 10-10-2016, 10:21 PM   #560
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
All the parts are ready Troy. I am shooting to get your car out either tomorrow or Wednesday. With the closing of the track and the move, it's been a bit hectic. Sorry abou the delay.
Not a problem. We actually have a new track opening here shortly and I'm dying to get a 1/12th together to go play there.
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Old 10-12-2016, 08:53 AM   #561
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Default Double Wishbone Frontend Spring Screws

RSD RR12 12th Scale Pan Car Kit-dremeling-spring-screw.jpg
Hey Folks,
thought I would share this with you.

I really like the double wishbone frontend on the RSD T2. It's really plush and has the most travel of any 1/12 I've ran. Not to mention great adjustability.

I am currently running little to no droop up front and full up travel (full stuff). I like the full stuff setup as it lets me get way more aggressive on the corner dots than a traditional frontend with minimal wheel travel.

Once thing I did notice at the far upper limits of up travel is that the coil spring mounting screws can cause a bit of a rub on the coil springs. This only applies to the upper 1-1.5 mm of wheel travel. to combat this I decided to remove the center threads of the screws to see if it would help and it worked perfect. I didn't bother polishing past the 400 grit mark just to see if it would affect smoothness but it didn't. End result is the full travel of the front suspension is silky smooth.

I just chucked the screw into a drill and used flat nuts to create borders and protect the threads where they were needed, and then spun the screw with the drill, and hit the threads with a grindstone mounted on my old dremel. (I don't have a mill yet).

RSD RR12 12th Scale Pan Car Kit-end-result.jpg

I've also improved the setup sheet I made with bigger data entry blocks if anyone wanted to use it below:

RSD Racing RR12T2.pdf
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Old 10-12-2016, 09:23 AM   #562
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Looks good. Just keep an eye on them as they will bend sometimes when you machine them like that.
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Old 10-12-2016, 11:25 AM   #563
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Ok Im confused What conversion kit do you buy for a AE 12r5.1 that also includes the aluminum chassis. part# please
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Old 10-12-2016, 12:09 PM   #564
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Running my new to me V2 tonight for the first time. Really looking forward to seeing how this car goes tonight. Thanks Brian, for the car.



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Old 10-12-2016, 01:17 PM   #565
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bubonic-X View Post
Ok Im confused What conversion kit do you buy for a AE 12r5.1 that also includes the aluminum chassis. part# please
There are different options. The only one we have for a 12R5,with an aluminum chassis is the full conversion. This is part no: RR12T2

In this product, you have 2 options, complete conversion or complete kit. The conversion comes without tubes, diff, shock, linkages for the sides and the steering.

Both of them include the RSD Front end.
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Old 10-13-2016, 10:24 AM   #566
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
There are different options. The only one we have for a 12R5,with an aluminum chassis is the full conversion. This is part no: RR12T2

In this product, you have 2 options, complete conversion or complete kit. The conversion comes without tubes, diff, shock, linkages for the sides and the steering.

Both of them include the RSD Front end.
Ok so want to build with silver screws which ones do I need?
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Old 10-13-2016, 10:50 AM   #567
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The screw list for the kit, on what I would consider ok to replace is:
M3x6CS (16pcs)
M3x6 Button (10 pcs)
M3x8CS (1 pc)
M3x8 Button (4pcs)

There are other screws in the front end that are in the front that are longer that I would not recommend changing as they can bend to easily and cause erratic behavior that often is hard to find.
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Old 10-22-2016, 07:34 AM   #568
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OK, I received and built my RR12T2 last week. Great looking car with a pretty straight forward build. The manual online for the car is for the v1 version with the standard front but looking at some of the pictures posted by others I was able to get mine together without much trouble. I snapped some pictures as to share here that may help others build their kit.

I have not used the car yet but the initial build was very nice.

Bare front end with arms.



Front arm pivots and spring mount installed.



Front arm installed.



Lower king pin holder bare.



Lower king pin holder installed. Note the o-ring is on top of the arm.



Standard Xenon upper arm and steering knuckle.



Upper arm assembled to lower arm. Note that the shims can be adjusted. I believe that if you add more shims between the knuckle and lower arm you will lower the roll center. Also, this shim stack may not be ideal, I just put this in because it's close to a standard 1/12th front end as a starting point.





The droop stop plate is installed with spacers off the front bumper.



Note the damper uses a stand off on one end to keep the damper rod and sleeve engaged properly. It's on the top end of the damper in this shot.



With springs installed on the front arm. Yokomo black springs were included in the kit.



I am using a 9650 servo and elected not to use the servo mounts includedso that ZI can slide the servo forward and back on the servo mount if needed. Don't misplace these mounts because if you swap to a servo without both horizontal and vertical mounts you will need them.



Full front end. I had to use a shim on the rear upper brace screws or they would just kiss the upper arm hinge pin.



Also, the slider pod and diff were excellent. Straight forward to assemble and easy to adjust. You can follow the online manual for the entire rear of the car.

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Old 10-22-2016, 11:56 AM   #569
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Looking at the first and second photos, the pivot holes in the lower arms appear to be an oval or oblong shape as opposed to round holes. Oblong holes make sense on one hand since they will allow the arms can rock on the ball-studs as the suspension goes thru its motion. But I'm curious to understand how and why the outer ends of the lower arms are prevented from moving foreword or backward when the inner end of each arm is located by oval holes.
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Old 10-22-2016, 12:32 PM   #570
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The underside of the arms are machined with pockets to accept the ball studs. The round machined hole matches the ball stud to keep the arms from moving around. The slotted hole is only for the screw clearance not to locate the arms.

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