RSD RR12 12th Scale Pan Car Kit
#151
Tech Master
iTrader: (20)
With the shock mounted this way, air bubbles will rise to the top of the shock so the piston won't encounter the bubbles until nearly the full length of travel. With the shock mounted the other way around (body downwards) the air bubbles are right at the beginning of the travel, creating that 'dead' feeling that Cristian and Jorge commented on.
#152
Tech Elite
iTrader: (37)
Thanks, guys. I'll see about doing this on my cars, since I'm all about maximum track time for minimum effort-- and I hate rebuilding yucky shocks. I know there is a small penalty of increasing unsprung weight, but I'm sure I'll never notice it given how heavy the motor is, and how slow I am.
#153
I had an extra 12R5 sitting on the shelf and thought I would buy the conversion. To be honest I initially bought it for the sliding rear pod adjustment. The first time I used the car was a Western Canadian trophy race. I made the A main which included the Canadian champion and a former IIC winner. The car was fast. The next race was also a trophy race, Alberta series. I TQ'd and won. I lapped the field. My top 20 laps were .5 seconds than the next cars fastest lap. I basically took the four screws holding the front end on the old 12r5 and bolted it right on.
I could not be happier with the car. It handles amazing. Corners harder and I could put the car anywhere I wanted to get through traffic.
I could not be more pleased with the car. I am a one of the faster guys, but still could use a few tenths per lap. This car got me those tenths, also saved me a lot of time not using the stupid inserts.
If you use a old 12r5 you can't use the front end brace. The conversion is wider than the original chassis. It looks like it can fit but pulls the front end bulkheads together so you can't get the right ride height. I also shimmed out the rear axle with 1mm shims to get to 172mm rear width. I also used spacer shims on the front I get it to around 168mm. I bought extra side damper tubes to replace the original monoshock.
What size are the spacers in the rear slider? I lost a screw and the silver shim?
I could not be happier with the car. It handles amazing. Corners harder and I could put the car anywhere I wanted to get through traffic.
I could not be more pleased with the car. I am a one of the faster guys, but still could use a few tenths per lap. This car got me those tenths, also saved me a lot of time not using the stupid inserts.
If you use a old 12r5 you can't use the front end brace. The conversion is wider than the original chassis. It looks like it can fit but pulls the front end bulkheads together so you can't get the right ride height. I also shimmed out the rear axle with 1mm shims to get to 172mm rear width. I also used spacer shims on the front I get it to around 168mm. I bought extra side damper tubes to replace the original monoshock.
What size are the spacers in the rear slider? I lost a screw and the silver shim?
Last edited by Madulla; 05-05-2015 at 11:43 AM.
#154
Unfortunate that nobody has put in their 2 cents so far, so let me at least give you my point of view.
Last couple of weeks we have had a couple of break throughs with the car that I think have made our stock set up even better and the car pick up as much as 0.15 seconds per lap on average over a run on a track that has slightly less bite. All these gains came from playing around with different length links and different, more forward shock position. When testing, I thought to myself, "this is really cool, the car is so versatile, I did all these changes on the car on adjustments that most cars don't have out there even as optional parts."
One of the guys testing with me said he was impressed with how the car had completely tranformed itself in handling characteristic from one end of the spectrum to the next. He actually said it felt like a different car altogether.
The floating steering provides the car with gobs of steering. Comparing traditionally mounted servos on some prototype configurations never provided as much steering as the floating mount. This was made even more evident on our upcoming World GT car. I personally run this car with 15-20% less d/r than with other cars. To me less d/r= more cornerspeed, which is a big plus.
Last couple of weeks we have had a couple of break throughs with the car that I think have made our stock set up even better and the car pick up as much as 0.15 seconds per lap on average over a run on a track that has slightly less bite. All these gains came from playing around with different length links and different, more forward shock position. When testing, I thought to myself, "this is really cool, the car is so versatile, I did all these changes on the car on adjustments that most cars don't have out there even as optional parts."
One of the guys testing with me said he was impressed with how the car had completely tranformed itself in handling characteristic from one end of the spectrum to the next. He actually said it felt like a different car altogether.
The floating steering provides the car with gobs of steering. Comparing traditionally mounted servos on some prototype configurations never provided as much steering as the floating mount. This was made even more evident on our upcoming World GT car. I personally run this car with 15-20% less d/r than with other cars. To me less d/r= more cornerspeed, which is a big plus.
1) Have you tested the car with the r5 components like the frontend and shock? I understand that many feel those parts are inferior to the prime shock and Xenon frontend, but it would be nice to know if those can be used without issue.
2) Along the same lines have you tested the car using AE or Xray side and center springs? Like the first question I would like to know how much I can reuse without compromising the handling of the car.
3) And lastly in your last update where you flipped the shock mount forward did this create a problem with running the battery inline? If I remember correctly that acted as a hold down of sorts for the battery.
Regards
Chris
Edited to add; are you using the CRC wide height gage to set the slider pod or do you have a different tool?
#155
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
I'm not a fast driver, but I like my car, I have not had the chance to modify the setup as per Cristian's latest findings. Hopefully my new balls for the side links will be in soon so I can try it. My car last Saturday did a 9.3 (AE sidelinks, shock forward in the standard mount position) and I think the guy that TQ'd with the new setup did a 9.2.
As for the side springs, I swap the AE ones and XRay ones out and use them. But the center shock determines what spring you can use on it.
Cristian has a ride height gage he made for the car. I use that.
As for the side springs, I swap the AE ones and XRay ones out and use them. But the center shock determines what spring you can use on it.
Cristian has a ride height gage he made for the car. I use that.
#156
Thanks Cristian, I love how this car looks and all the adjustments it has. One racer I know bought one of the numbered kits and I was able to see it up close and one time on the track and it looked very quick. I have to admit that I'm somewhat gun shy about conversion kits after the unpleasant experience I had with the last conversion I tried, which is why I'm hoping that someone will still chime in with some comments converting an r5. And thanks for the quick reply to my inquiry on your website, I have a couple more questions for you.
1) Have you tested the car with the r5 components like the frontend and shock? I understand that many feel those parts are inferior to the prime shock and Xenon frontend, but it would be nice to know if those can be used without issue.
The Car was developed with an AE Front end. It works just fine. It makes the car a little less aggressive perhaps, but this can be mitigated by simply adding the Xenon Hard lower arm if you ever need a little extra
2) Along the same lines have you tested the car using AE or Xray side and center springs? Like the first question I would like to know how much I can reuse without compromising the handling of the car.
Right now, I am using XRAY linear silver springs. A few of us use the AE springs upside down which actually works better as it has more clearance at the bottom link. Personally, I prefer linear springs and we have our own line coming within the next couple of weeks.
3) And lastly in your last update where you flipped the shock mount forward did this create a problem with running the battery inline? If I remember correctly that acted as a hold down of sorts for the battery.
Not at all. The battery can still be taped into the chassis. Tape is always needed, moving the unimount around should not create any issues whatsoever.
Regards
Chris
Edited to add; are you using the CRC wide height gage to set the slider pod or do you have a different tool?
1) Have you tested the car with the r5 components like the frontend and shock? I understand that many feel those parts are inferior to the prime shock and Xenon frontend, but it would be nice to know if those can be used without issue.
The Car was developed with an AE Front end. It works just fine. It makes the car a little less aggressive perhaps, but this can be mitigated by simply adding the Xenon Hard lower arm if you ever need a little extra
2) Along the same lines have you tested the car using AE or Xray side and center springs? Like the first question I would like to know how much I can reuse without compromising the handling of the car.
Right now, I am using XRAY linear silver springs. A few of us use the AE springs upside down which actually works better as it has more clearance at the bottom link. Personally, I prefer linear springs and we have our own line coming within the next couple of weeks.
3) And lastly in your last update where you flipped the shock mount forward did this create a problem with running the battery inline? If I remember correctly that acted as a hold down of sorts for the battery.
Not at all. The battery can still be taped into the chassis. Tape is always needed, moving the unimount around should not create any issues whatsoever.
Regards
Chris
Edited to add; are you using the CRC wide height gage to set the slider pod or do you have a different tool?
#157
I had an extra 12R5 sitting on the shelf and thought I would buy the conversion. To be honest I initially bought it for the sliding rear pod adjustment. The first time I used the car was a Western Canadian trophy race. I made the A main which included the Canadian champion and a former IIC winner. The car was fast. The next race was also a trophy race, Alberta series. I TQ'd and won. I lapped the field. My top 20 laps were .5 seconds than the next cars fastest lap. I basically took the four screws holding the front end on the old 12r5 and bolted it right on.
I could not be happier with the car. It handles amazing. Corners harder and I could put the car anywhere I wanted to get through traffic.
I could not be more pleased with the car. I am a one of the faster guys, but still could use a few tenths per lap. This car got me those tenths, also saved me a lot of time not using the stupid inserts.
If you use a old 12r5 you can't use the front end brace. The conversion is wider than the original chassis. It looks like it can fit but pulls the front end bulkheads together so you can't get the right ride height. I also shimmed out the rear axle with 1mm shims to get to 172mm rear width. I also used spacer shims on the front I get it to around 168mm. I bought extra side damper tubes to replace the original monoshock.
What size are the spacers in the rear slider? I lost a screw and the silver shim?
I could not be happier with the car. It handles amazing. Corners harder and I could put the car anywhere I wanted to get through traffic.
I could not be more pleased with the car. I am a one of the faster guys, but still could use a few tenths per lap. This car got me those tenths, also saved me a lot of time not using the stupid inserts.
If you use a old 12r5 you can't use the front end brace. The conversion is wider than the original chassis. It looks like it can fit but pulls the front end bulkheads together so you can't get the right ride height. I also shimmed out the rear axle with 1mm shims to get to 172mm rear width. I also used spacer shims on the front I get it to around 168mm. I bought extra side damper tubes to replace the original monoshock.
What size are the spacers in the rear slider? I lost a screw and the silver shim?
On the shims, they are M3x5mm I will also put those on the site this week. Working on a ton of pics for variations of our conversion, some sedan items and a few other 12th scale bits, including shims.
#158
Thanks Madulla and bdmpastx for sharing your experiences with the car and especially with regards to the r5 conversion details. And thanks for the answers Cristian, all very helpful.
#159
Tech Apprentice
Do you use the carbon or steel axle?
Last edited by kineteks; 05-08-2015 at 06:04 AM.
#161
You use the parts from your 12R5.1 to complete the RR12 conversion. So that means you use the dampers off the 12R5.1 to complete it, plus the front suspension and rear diff, etc., etc..
#163
#164
The diff has a carbon axle. if you really want to reduce wheel wobble, bsr makes a thing, not sure what to call it, it looks like the thing pizza places put in boxes to keep the pizza from getting squished. You use it when you true the rear tires to keep the arbor from warping the wheel, its pretty nice