patorz31

Yeah dale and i ran them last tuesday. The fwd works awesome very fun to drive.

Quinny45

iTrader: (6)

Nice !!

benTC5

My car is coming next week and a little unsure about the battery placement. Shorty or STD Pack?

patorz31

I am using a lcg shorty. Basically a 2s pack that's the same size as a 1/12 scale pack but we run 21.5s and 5 min heats and mains.

Quinny45

iTrader: (6)

X2

NutDriver

iTrader: (30)

This is very interesting. I have been considering FWD in USGT due to the 200g weight break it gets. I have a TC4 and a TC6.2, but this certainly is food for thought.

b20btec

iTrader: (11)

Just bought this to shave 50grams on club nights

patorz31

That was the only way I could get the weight way down was using a battery like that.

NutDriver

iTrader: (30)

OK, I'm considering this car for USGT. The USGT rules allow a FWD chassis to run as light as 1250g, where 4WD has a 1450g minimum. They also mandate a 21.5 blinky setup and Gravity spec tires, so having different compounds front and rear is not possible.
I know that Pastorz has weighed his car and posted an 1160g weight. I saw Torqx video and it looked like the car was holding its own against an Xray 4WD.
I'm looking for the opinions of owners on whether 1) The car can make a 1250g minimum, and 2) Is it necessary to run a different compound on the front and the rear to get the car to handle?
BTW, I run on smaller carpet tracks indoors with medium to high bite.

Scott

patorz31

I havent run mine on carpet yet. I have run the usgt tires front and rear on low bite pavement. It works better then my 4wd car. If you pick the right battery, right electronics, right body and make the wiring neat 1250 should no problem.

otaku521

I have just picked up this car as well...(2nd Hand)
Any one have a good generic setup / setup sheet for this car?
so far this car's electronics:
HW 3.0
Scorpion 13.5T
Sanwa 871 servo
Sanwa 471 Receiver

1) Anyone have any suspension springs advice? HPI Silver? Yokomo Blue? Xgear Pink?
2) as read above that replacement arms, c hubs, etc can switch to Xray ones (plastics)
2a) How about Metal Suspenion blocks - what other ones fits? Xray?
3) Diff can switch to ARC/Xray would be fine? Can it use xray spools? (Since ppl here use bluetac/ear plugs/putty on it anyways)
4) Universals CVD- can it use double cadins? or 2 sections CVDs can it use Xrays compat ones? (like Spec R or Yeah Racing?)
5) Anyone have problem with the pulley? I heard that it wears out easily? I have seems CSO have release a part for it...
6) What type of body works best? HPI Celica? FD2? EK9? MK9?

Sorry so many questions...

patorz31

Well I have only run mine with USGT tires and 21.5. Right now for our pave track I am using the Kit springs that came with it.

I haven't had an issue with the plastics. Still using the stock stuff that came out of the box and it's taken a few hard hits. The Xray diff looks like it will fit but you would have to run CVDs or DCJs, Xray chubs and steering blocks (The Pin on the dogbone on the MTS is 3mm most others 2mm).

I haven't needed DCJs the way the front end is set up it doesn't chatter as much as most.

I havent had any issues wit the pulley yet, but I have only been running it for a couple of months.

As for bodies I really like the HPI celica and I found a couple of lightweight Tamiya Integra bodies from a guy in HK, They may be repops in light lexan for they came just in a bag with no header card and no masks just stickers.

I am waiting for the 3racing Honda to be released.

patorz31

Actually for a FWD car you want the biggest Spur you can get for the ratio you want to run. You want the motor as far forward as you can get. The more forward the motor the more front end weight you have which means more traction.
I am running a 78t 48p spur with a 45t pinion currently.

Quinny45

iTrader: (6)

I don't know is the best because if you have too much weight on the front end the front bumper or the front parts of the frame will scratch the carpet in long fast curve and causing traction roll. I had this problem with my older FF03... for the MTS I keep the motor closer to the gearbox as possible and the car work well !

midse

iTrader: (8)

Derek Hung placed 2nd in Mod class at We Shi International race using the chassis and Team Powers.

tem no. RO-MTS-T2
MTS T^2 1:10 Touring Car kit. PRE-ASSEMBLED
Specifications:
- Innovative RAS (Reduced Air System) shock absorber
- Innovative Anti-Twist Bar Rolling System
- With newly designed aluminum motor mount that can adjust the motor towards/backwards to the chassis center
- Belt direct drive system
- Front & rear spring steel CVD shaft
- With front solid axle with spring steel outdrive
- Rear gear differential with spring steel outdrive and with harder plastic gear
- Spring steel turnbuckle and come with HD ball cups
- Come with aluminum Floating Servo mount, Steering arm, gear diff mount, fan mount, suspension mount and locking wheel hex
- The 2.2mm main chassis, 2mm upper deck, 3mm front and rear shock tower are made by USA carbon fiber
- With aluminum stands to adjust the chassis stiffness to utilize different traction at different track conditions.

MTS T^2 User Manual:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxU...ew?usp=sharing

Looks to have some very cool innovative features. The Reduced air shocks hsve the shafts travelling through the sealed shock cap. Should make for less stiction and end play. The adjustable top deck flex system will be a welcome change too. It has Lots many included options you don't get on other kits. The manual has lots of other parts listings of tuning options. As mentioned above, It is pre assembled so the 3d CAD manual is for reference.

They're expecting to be released soon. I've ordered one to test and will post a full review here and in the MTS t^2 thread. I'll partially pull it down and rebuild.