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Old 01-09-2015, 09:23 PM   #31
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rchobbies4life is actually cheaper than HRP for most parts. As an example: the front belt was $4.50 and the rear was $3.70. The savings on those 2 alone more than covered the $7.40 USPS priority shipping. For some resaon the diff case is crazy expensive from HRP, they charge $30 when it's under half that anywhere else, so I don't really consider that one much of a bargain.

The order would have cost me $67 from HRP. Even if you remove the crazy diff case from the equation I still saved $12, actually $22 since HRP charges shipping on orders under $50. Half of my off-road stuff is Team C, so I'm not new to finding the best parts deals.

I didn't buys spare arms for the TC10, but they're a huge savings as well. A full set front and rear is right around $13 from RCH4L vs $36 for all 4 from HRP.
Just looked the prices up and you are correct. Apologies. Get the best deal then Another thing you might want to stock up is C-hubs, Steering Knuckles and uprights. The belts actually last forever but in TC if you hit hard enough you'll break a hub or knuckle for sure... The diffs will last you a long time too so you're pretty safe on that side. Good move on the O-rings, it's a good thing to change it when you redo your diff...
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Old 01-09-2015, 09:40 PM   #32
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I ordered hubs, knuckles and uprights from an Ebay chop shop. Think it was $12 for the whole set.

I'll probably do some running on asphalt when the weather clears, that's why I picked up the belts. I rather have them on hand instead having down time when I pick up a stone.
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Old 01-10-2015, 11:50 PM   #33
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Few Pics of my car:



What is that mounted behind your motor?
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Old 01-11-2015, 07:32 AM   #34
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What is that mounted behind your motor?
It's a fan. It keeps the temp of the motor down...
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Old 01-12-2015, 11:07 AM   #35
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Ha, I should have seen that. Guess that's what I get for trying to squint at it on my phone.
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Old 01-12-2015, 11:00 PM   #36
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For anyone else building one of these. When you install the center pulley, you flip it around the opposite direction of how it's shown when you're building it. If you don't flip it you'll be putting the axle in from the wrong side and the rear pulley won't line up.
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Old 01-20-2015, 08:46 AM   #37
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Raced the car this Sunday. Traffic was horrible in the morning because of iced roads. All bridges were closed till 11AM. I walked in straight in the qualifiers so I didn't get to practice. lol.

It was fun though and competition was tight...

Qualified 2nd and finished 3rd.
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Old 01-20-2015, 02:24 PM   #38
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You guys were nuts going out in that just for some racing. Mrs_Ape worked 3rd shift at the hospital that night, took her 3.5 hrs to get home Sunday morning. It usually takes her 45 mins.

I finally got my replacement screws last Friday. Haven't gotten a chance to sit down and finish the build yet though. Hopefully the house will be quiet enough tonight when I get home.
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Old 01-21-2015, 11:54 AM   #39
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You guys were nuts going out in that just for some racing. Mrs_Ape worked 3rd shift at the hospital that night, took her 3.5 hrs to get home Sunday morning. It usually takes her 45 mins.

I finally got my replacement screws last Friday. Haven't gotten a chance to sit down and finish the build yet though. Hopefully the house will be quiet enough tonight when I get home.
Yea it was kinda hectic going there. The way back was ok though, no ice and no traffic.
If you have any concerns regarding the build please don't hesitate to let me know...
I'm headed to the Slowbirds at Horsham this weekend.
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Old 01-21-2015, 02:08 PM   #40
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This is my 5th Team C kit, so I'm used to the sparse instructions. They actually seem better than the off-road ones, which never account for the upgrades in the TE kits.
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Old 01-22-2015, 11:43 AM   #41
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How many MaH do you normally drain per round in 17.5 blinky TC? The only ROAR approved lipos I have are shorties for my 2wd buggy, so I'm trying ro determine if I need to pick up 1 or 2 new batteries.
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Old 01-22-2015, 11:52 AM   #42
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How many MaH do you normally drain per round in 17.5 blinky TC? The only ROAR approved lipos I have are shorties for my 2wd buggy, so I'm trying ro determine if I need to pick up 1 or 2 new batteries.
I use no more than 2000mah in a 6 min. run. That includes a lot of crashing and restarting.

Determine how much weight you need to get to 1380gm, then buy batteries based on weight and adjust the L/R balance with the placement of your electronics.

I run 4 different cars (TC10, spec-r R1, S2 and an Xray T3 '12). I have weighted my batteries, so they are identical.
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Old 01-22-2015, 12:25 PM   #43
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How many MaH do you normally drain per round in 17.5 blinky TC? The only ROAR approved lipos I have are shorties for my 2wd buggy, so I'm trying ro determine if I need to pick up 1 or 2 new batteries.
That's a great question I have never measured my amp draw. I won a little battery tester in a raffle a while ago maybe it's time to try it. I know that on a tight high traction track I draw roughly 0.6 voltz on a 6 minute run.
A shorty might be a little too weak for spec carpet racing, where the power of a battery plays a big role...
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Old 01-22-2015, 02:49 PM   #44
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I'm not worried about the batteries fading, they're 4800MaH 90c race spec packs. They have plenty of juice for 8 min mains in stock buggy. I just wanted to avoid weights.

I'll prob just get one plus a higher output charger. A 20a should have no trouble topping off a 6600mah between rounds.
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Old 01-28-2015, 07:17 PM   #45
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Hi guys, so I went to this big race last Sunday. The Slowbirds at Horsham in PA.

Turnout was huge. I ran 17.5TC, qualified 6th and finished 6th.
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