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Old 10-27-2014, 07:01 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by funked1 View Post
Accucel 6 has been a workhorse for me for planes, cars, robots, whatever.
Ya they charge nimh/nicd/lipo and even lead acid
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Old 10-27-2014, 09:14 PM   #62
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Accucel 6 has been a workhorse for me for planes, cars, robots, whatever.
what's your power supply?
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Old 10-27-2014, 09:17 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by 2uzferunner03 View Post
Accucel 6

With this p/s
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...637229&alt=web

This setup will be fine with almost any 2s or 3s. If your charging a 2s batt above 6 amps then your diminishing it's life for a faster charge anyways which I don't do.
thanks for the link. i was surprised the seller is like 10mins away from me.

how long does it take to fully charge a regular 2s using this setup?
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Old 10-28-2014, 05:31 AM   #64
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Originally Posted by TheEarlyWorm View Post
what's your power supply?
I have one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002JTD1Q/...ter_B00O169KOG

But it's overkill for the Accucell and is really too heavy to take to the track. It's a nice cheap bench supply though, and I use it to power lots of things in my lab and shop.
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Old 10-28-2014, 08:19 AM   #65
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http://www.harborfreight.com/non-con...ter-93983.html

$12. I got mine on sale at our local HF for $10.
Is that stable? i got one similar before, i found it is not accurate
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Old 10-28-2014, 11:03 PM   #66
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Is that stable? i got one similar before, i found it is not accurate
What is a more stable power supply in your opinion?
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Old 10-28-2014, 11:44 PM   #67
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http://www.amain.com/ProTek-R-C-Prod...A-247W/p263647

or get an ac/dc charger
http://www.amain.com/Thunder-Power-T...lancer/p178721
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Old 10-29-2014, 08:31 AM   #68
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I have 2 chargers.
One is Icharger 308DUO, very good.

The other one is Icharger 400W*2

I have a very good supply, but very heavy. As i sometimes go to fly. this is very good.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...upply-fuel.jpg
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Old 10-29-2014, 08:32 AM   #69
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I have 2 chargers.
One is Icharger 308DUO, very good.

The other one is Icharger 400W*2

I have a very good supply, but very heavy. As i sometimes go to fly. this is very good.
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Old 10-29-2014, 10:12 AM   #70
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I re-entered the hobby about 6 months ago after being away for 25 years so I have a little advice.


Someone mentioned getting a used motor, that is a great idea, brand is not important since you may upgrade in 3-6 months. Until you become a bit better at driving the car a motor is your least important item.

Regardless of the set up tires are critical, find what others are using at your local track before making any bulk buys.....don't forget tire sauce.

Spend your money on a nice radio (I plan to upgrade to a Spektrum DX4R as soon as I can afford it), it will serve you longer than most of your cars. There are a number of good radios out there so find one that has the features you use the most...and feels the best in your hand.

Don't hesitate to buy quality items you know will last, it's nice to spend money once if you plan to take this up seriously rather than having to upgrade a month or 2 down the road.

BTW, your English is very good......better than some that were born here.
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Old 10-30-2014, 06:35 AM   #71
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Right.. spend money on a good radio.. very important. I had very bad experience on this.My first radio is i can not remember which brand..i lost my tiny boat and one heli. i really spent a lot of money in radio.I have sanwa EXZES X, KO EX-1. Just bought a new one Futaba 14SG.I found this is the most important thing of all your equipments!
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Old 10-30-2014, 05:17 PM   #72
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Default Advice from 15 months of experience

This is what makes this forum great! Plenty of good advice for everyone. I got my, now 10 year old, son into this hobby 15 months ago with a HPI RTR. Found a local race track and spent a small fortune trying to hop up the Sprint 2 into a racing TC. Glad you did not start that way because the Sprint 2 is now retired into a drifter/basher. Might be good enough in 17.5T class but my son progressed into 13.5T and recently 10.5T stock after a TQ/A1 finish. The RTR just couldn't keep up. We went thru a Spec-R, a TCXX and a couple of S411s the last 12 months and he is now on a Top Sabre S4 due to a sponsorship. I had the experience of building the sakura Xi sport due to an upcoming one-make endurance race where everyone's got to use this chassis. Got to say it was a delightful built and I have no reservations that you could grow with this car. Design, layout is top class and quality is right up there at 1/4 price of a big name chassis.
My advice to you is get a thicker bodyshell as the lightweight ones cannot take all the newbie beating and to read up all the Lipo battery charging/storage instructions as well as proper gearing for your motor. I blew up a few motors, ESCs and damaged a few lipos at the beginning because I didn't know what I was doing for my son. Also, ESCs cannot take reverse polarity so best for you to use Deans connectors. Its possible to plug in bullet-type leads incorrectly when you are in a hurry or when you are simply thinking about something else
The other advice is to keep reading this forum as there are plenty of useful threads! Good luck and have fun!
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Old 10-31-2014, 01:01 AM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fluxspeed View Post
This is what makes this forum great! Plenty of good advice for everyone. I got my, now 10 year old, son into this hobby 15 months ago with a HPI RTR. Found a local race track and spent a small fortune trying to hop up the Sprint 2 into a racing TC. Glad you did not start that way because the Sprint 2 is now retired into a drifter/basher. Might be good enough in 17.5T class but my son progressed into 13.5T and recently 10.5T stock after a TQ/A1 finish. The RTR just couldn't keep up. We went thru a Spec-R, a TCXX and a couple of S411s the last 12 months and he is now on a Top Sabre S4 due to a sponsorship. I had the experience of building the sakura Xi sport due to an upcoming one-make endurance race where everyone's got to use this chassis. Got to say it was a delightful built and I have no reservations that you could grow with this car. Design, layout is top class and quality is right up there at 1/4 price of a big name chassis.
My advice to you is get a thicker bodyshell as the lightweight ones cannot take all the newbie beating and to read up all the Lipo battery charging/storage instructions as well as proper gearing for your motor. I blew up a few motors, ESCs and damaged a few lipos at the beginning because I didn't know what I was doing for my son. Also, ESCs cannot take reverse polarity so best for you to use Deans connectors. Its possible to plug in bullet-type leads incorrectly when you are in a hurry or when you are simply thinking about something else
The other advice is to keep reading this forum as there are plenty of useful threads! Good luck and have fun!
So with my set up do i need a Dean connector? I have no idea what that is so i will have to look that up. My electronics would be Turnigy Trackstar 17.5T motor Hobbywing justock Esc and savox 1251 servo
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Old 10-31-2014, 02:37 AM   #74
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Deans connectors have their own pitfalls. It only takes one wired the wrong way around and by the time you go back to the shop to explain what they've done and tell them they owe you a new speedy, it's too late, and they'll blame you anyway.

The other problem I have had with Deans is the plastic is not that heat resistant and the tabs need only sink an invisible fraction into the plastic to drive you nuts trying to work out why your electronics don't power up or your car dies suddenly for no apparent reason.

Now I only use bullet (Corally) connectors and never had a mishap. Focuses you attention on what you're doing.
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Old 10-31-2014, 06:11 AM   #75
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You should directly solder the motor and esc wires together. For the battery you should use a deans connector. They are clearly marked plus/minus. It's much easier to solder something once and know the connections are right than to have to plug in bullet connectors every time.

Btw whatever battery you get is going to have bullet connectors that plug directly into the battery. You should put those bullets in the battery ONCE and leave them in. Every time you pull them out you risk damaging the battery.
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