4LikesVBC WILDFIRE D07
08-18-2015, 01:46 PM
#556
I could never get consistent results when using the over ride hight method. Your arm muscles aren't precise enough to lift with a difference of .5mm every time. I measure under the loop with droop blocks. No problems. You can measure at the axle or the mounting pin, wherever you want really. Just be consistent at where you measure. That the most important part and wright that down on your setup sheet so you have a common reference. Most top drivers will say where they measure from. Set your droop as close as you can using their method, then measure using yours. You now have a base line to start from using your own methods.
08-18-2015, 03:44 PM
#557
Tech Apprentice
Funny that
Okay i have search the D06 and D07 threads and everyone has there way of doing it. What is the best way of setting up droop with this car? The way i do it is with wheels on and i pull up on the suspension be for tire lift off and i set droop over ride height front and rear each corner. So say i am running 5mm ride height front and rear and i want 1.5 mm in front and 2mm in rear i just adjust until i get the measurement over height. Is this a good way of doing droop measurement? I see most of the more top guy at my local track do this some use droop blocks and gauge But there cars dont have the loop on rear hub.
The way you measure droop is, in engineering terms, entirely correct - although I'd prefer set up wheels over the actual wheels because they nearly always are a bit wobbled.
What you may want to do is do your method, then find a consistent place to measure the downstop
08-19-2015, 07:27 PM
#558
D07 Active rear
I haven't tested it back to back yet against a standard rear. Got a great starting point from Ryan for high grip track. E20 rear block ( mine is e25) 4mm inner shim -12mm screw and 1-2mm outer shim. A friend and I tested it a few nights ago. Pretty sure we settled on 1mm outer.
Be mindful that the outer hinge pin grub screw doesnt actually contact the pin, I guess its a design fault. I did use thread sealer on the grub screw despite this. Some of the sealer dribbled onto the pin and held it in place. Make sure the c hub can operate freely inside the arm. Light sanding or filing of the arm might be required. Mine were slightly grabbing but have freed up after the first race. Once everything is assembled and droop/ride height is set then use a good setup station to adjust your rear toe to 2.5 ( static). You'll see what effect suspension travel has on toe.
I wasn't able to test mine properly but my mates car was a huge improvement over the other times I've driven it.
We then raced last night on a very low grip bitumen track. It's actually old tennis courts. A good VBC mod driver suggested we use 3mm inner and .5 outer shims. I ran a 2k diff set low. It drove very consistent. One of the best low grip setups I've driven.
Apparently the Active rear requires fine tuning between all tracks.
Basically the high grip setup above slightly decreases outside toe and increases inside toe which gives more steering.
The low grip setup slightly increases outside toe,( I'm not sure if the inside stays neutral) Which increases grip. It certainly felt like it.
That's how it was explained to me.
I set the droop at 5 on the rear arm and adjust the front between 4.8 - 5.4
Be mindful that the outer hinge pin grub screw doesnt actually contact the pin, I guess its a design fault. I did use thread sealer on the grub screw despite this. Some of the sealer dribbled onto the pin and held it in place. Make sure the c hub can operate freely inside the arm. Light sanding or filing of the arm might be required. Mine were slightly grabbing but have freed up after the first race. Once everything is assembled and droop/ride height is set then use a good setup station to adjust your rear toe to 2.5 ( static). You'll see what effect suspension travel has on toe.
I wasn't able to test mine properly but my mates car was a huge improvement over the other times I've driven it.
We then raced last night on a very low grip bitumen track. It's actually old tennis courts. A good VBC mod driver suggested we use 3mm inner and .5 outer shims. I ran a 2k diff set low. It drove very consistent. One of the best low grip setups I've driven.
Apparently the Active rear requires fine tuning between all tracks.
Basically the high grip setup above slightly decreases outside toe and increases inside toe which gives more steering.
The low grip setup slightly increases outside toe,( I'm not sure if the inside stays neutral) Which increases grip. It certainly felt like it.
That's how it was explained to me.
I set the droop at 5 on the rear arm and adjust the front between 4.8 - 5.4
Last edited by midse; 08-19-2015 at 08:08 PM. Reason: Update
08-19-2015, 11:26 PM
#559
Tech Adept
I haven't tested it back to back yet against a standard rear. Got a great starting point from Ryan for high grip track. E20 rear block ( mine is e25) 4mm inner shim -12mm screw and 1-2mm outer shim. A friend and I tested it a few nights ago. Pretty sure we settled on 1mm outer.
Be mindful that the outer hinge pin grub screw doesnt actually contact the pin, I guess its a design fault. I did use thread sealer on the grub screw despite this. Some of the sealer dribbled onto the pin and held it in place. Make sure the c hub can operate freely inside the arm. Light sanding or filing of the arm might be required. Mine were slightly grabbing but have freed up after the first race. Once everything is assembled and droop/ride height is set then use a good setup station to adjust your rear toe to 2.5 ( static). You'll see what effect suspension travel has on toe.
I wasn't able to test mine properly but my mates car was a huge improvement over the other times I've driven it.
We then raced last night on a very low grip bitumen track. It's actually old tennis courts. A good VBC mod driver suggested we use 3mm inner and .5 outer shims. I ran a 2k diff set low. It drove very consistent. One of the best low grip setups I've driven.
Apparently the Active rear requires fine tuning between all tracks.
Basically the high grip setup above slightly decreases outside toe and increases inside toe which gives more steering.
The low grip setup slightly increases outside toe,( I'm not sure if the inside stays neutral) Which increases grip. It certainly felt like it.
That's how it was explained to me.
I set the droop at 5 on the rear arm and adjust the front between 4.8 - 5.4
Be mindful that the outer hinge pin grub screw doesnt actually contact the pin, I guess its a design fault. I did use thread sealer on the grub screw despite this. Some of the sealer dribbled onto the pin and held it in place. Make sure the c hub can operate freely inside the arm. Light sanding or filing of the arm might be required. Mine were slightly grabbing but have freed up after the first race. Once everything is assembled and droop/ride height is set then use a good setup station to adjust your rear toe to 2.5 ( static). You'll see what effect suspension travel has on toe.
I wasn't able to test mine properly but my mates car was a huge improvement over the other times I've driven it.
We then raced last night on a very low grip bitumen track. It's actually old tennis courts. A good VBC mod driver suggested we use 3mm inner and .5 outer shims. I ran a 2k diff set low. It drove very consistent. One of the best low grip setups I've driven.
Apparently the Active rear requires fine tuning between all tracks.
Basically the high grip setup above slightly decreases outside toe and increases inside toe which gives more steering.
The low grip setup slightly increases outside toe,( I'm not sure if the inside stays neutral) Which increases grip. It certainly felt like it.
That's how it was explained to me.
I set the droop at 5 on the rear arm and adjust the front between 4.8 - 5.4
If you are looking for a good setup for low traction, you can start with this one : http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/vbcr..._Genk20150916/
If you don't have ghost shocks, you can use normal one with 400/450 oïl.
08-20-2015, 02:04 AM
#560
Hello,
If you are looking for a good setup for low traction, you can start with this one : http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/vbcr..._Genk20150916/
If you don't have ghost shocks, you can use normal one with 400/450 oïl.
If you are looking for a good setup for low traction, you can start with this one : http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/vbcr..._Genk20150916/
If you don't have ghost shocks, you can use normal one with 400/450 oïl.
08-22-2015, 02:34 PM
#561
Tech Apprentice
Raceberry towers
Dear all
Had a very interesting test day.
I had got the car going very well with near kit settings save for:
white front springs
45wt front oil
40wt rear oil
10K wt diff oil
I got my lap time best to 11.07 with an average time of 11.77
Once my car was there, I put on:
Raceberry front and rear towers
xray T3'12 front and rear shocks (plastic) with three hole pistons
hpi pink front and Hpi blue springs
first run 11.07 best lap time - average lap time 11.34
(checked car over and found front links were different left and right - sorted it out
11.04 best lap average lap 11.25
tried Rheinhard pink and purple springs - car a bit too edgy and reactive for me and lap time 11.25 fastest average 11.97
So on fairly high grip smooth carpet II highly recommend longer shocks
Had a very interesting test day.
I had got the car going very well with near kit settings save for:
white front springs
45wt front oil
40wt rear oil
10K wt diff oil
I got my lap time best to 11.07 with an average time of 11.77
Once my car was there, I put on:
Raceberry front and rear towers
xray T3'12 front and rear shocks (plastic) with three hole pistons
hpi pink front and Hpi blue springs
first run 11.07 best lap time - average lap time 11.34
(checked car over and found front links were different left and right - sorted it out
11.04 best lap average lap 11.25
tried Rheinhard pink and purple springs - car a bit too edgy and reactive for me and lap time 11.25 fastest average 11.97
So on fairly high grip smooth carpet II highly recommend longer shocks
08-22-2015, 05:26 PM
#562
08-29-2015, 11:18 AM
#563
Couple of questions as I am new to the sedan racing:
1. What spur gears can I use on this car other than the panaracer
2. I am going to be running a 21.5 motor in our local GT3 class and am being told to shoot for a FDR of 3.2-3.5. What would you recommend for me to gear at spur and pinion
1. What spur gears can I use on this car other than the panaracer
2. I am going to be running a 21.5 motor in our local GT3 class and am being told to shoot for a FDR of 3.2-3.5. What would you recommend for me to gear at spur and pinion
08-29-2015, 11:32 AM
#564
Couple of questions as I am new to the sedan racing:
1. What spur gears can I use on this car other than the panaracer
2. I am going to be running a 21.5 motor in our local GT3 class and am being told to shoot for a FDR of 3.2-3.5. What would you recommend for me to gear at spur and pinion
1. What spur gears can I use on this car other than the panaracer
2. I am going to be running a 21.5 motor in our local GT3 class and am being told to shoot for a FDR of 3.2-3.5. What would you recommend for me to gear at spur and pinion
08-29-2015, 12:23 PM
#565
Angrymelon - thanks for you help
08-29-2015, 07:30 PM
#566
Decision
I have a vbc d06 with low run time on thinking i should get the d07 not really a good racer so i now i would notice the difference Between the 2 but i may have a line on the newer car. Should i get it or just save my cash and work with the d06 ?
08-29-2015, 08:10 PM
#567
What class, tires and surface are you running?
08-29-2015, 08:19 PM
#568
Active Rear Toe System
I have seen a few comments / questions for folks that have tried the ARTS. I have been running my D07 for about 1.5 years and have been pretty successful with the car. I run USGT on carpet. I played around with the ARTS for about a month before I switched back to the standard rear toe blocks.
The ARTS definitely freed up the rear of the car more than the fixed toe blocks but I found the car to be a bit unpredictable at times.
After about a month of working with the ARTS and feeling I had a decent handle on the car, I ran the first round with ARTS, swapped over to the fixed toe blocks for the second round and found my times to be around 0.07 - 0.1 faster across the fast lap and top 5, 10 laps but .2 faster on my top 20 laps.
In the end, I felt more consistent with the fixed rear toe blocks than the ARTS on our low grip carpet track.
I definitely don't think the ARTS is a "must have" option and I definitely think it is more beneficial on a high grip surface. It was fun working with it and if you are looking for something new to tinker with, I think you would enjoy it. But, I wouldn't expect to bump up to the podium simply due to adding this to your car.
These are just my observation points from my specific experience. Hope this helps someone.
The ARTS definitely freed up the rear of the car more than the fixed toe blocks but I found the car to be a bit unpredictable at times.
After about a month of working with the ARTS and feeling I had a decent handle on the car, I ran the first round with ARTS, swapped over to the fixed toe blocks for the second round and found my times to be around 0.07 - 0.1 faster across the fast lap and top 5, 10 laps but .2 faster on my top 20 laps.
In the end, I felt more consistent with the fixed rear toe blocks than the ARTS on our low grip carpet track.
I definitely don't think the ARTS is a "must have" option and I definitely think it is more beneficial on a high grip surface. It was fun working with it and if you are looking for something new to tinker with, I think you would enjoy it. But, I wouldn't expect to bump up to the podium simply due to adding this to your car.
These are just my observation points from my specific experience. Hope this helps someone.
08-29-2015, 09:59 PM
#569
Couple of questions as I am new to the sedan racing:
1. What spur gears can I use on this car other than the panaracer
2. I am going to be running a 21.5 motor in our local GT3 class and am being told to shoot for a FDR of 3.2-3.5. What would you recommend for me to gear at spur and pinion
1. What spur gears can I use on this car other than the panaracer
2. I am going to be running a 21.5 motor in our local GT3 class and am being told to shoot for a FDR of 3.2-3.5. What would you recommend for me to gear at spur and pinion
The Xray offset, RW and ARC/Team Titan spurs work well too.
08-30-2015, 06:16 AM
#570
Tech Apprentice
is it the same belts to the Aggressive chassi and the standard?