R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 04-09-2015, 12:00 AM   #376
Tech Elite
 
Lonestar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Switzerland
Posts: 2,345
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by accord12 View Post
I had same issue with shock cap(upper alu) and cap(plastic)
They might change molding parts a little bit (either upper cap, and low ball connector plastic parts) , very tight in my case

That's why I had to cut them all. When I put d06 shock cap(plastic parts) It was okay.

I cannot believe VBC racing dosen't consist with part quality (alu and plastic enev graphite)

It is my third kit (2 D06, 1 D07)

I hope VBC RACING remain the quality as a hi grade car brand.
glad to see i m not the only one to pick up this kind of stuff when building a kit in more than 6 hours
__________________
When the flag drops, the BS stops.

The train stops at the train station. The bus stops at the bus station. In my office I have a workstation.
Lonestar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2015, 01:02 AM   #377
Tech Elite
 
Lonestar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Switzerland
Posts: 2,345
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

and to close the discussion on "hidden defects" and how they are hushed-hushed at best... I recently spotted sthing weird on one of my cars (won't tell you which one otherwise you'll know who's the guy I'm talking about below... read on) and asked about it on the forums - folks told me I was nuts, I couldn't build a car properly, and so on... but other ones were PM'ing me telling me they had the exact same issue and asking me how I solved the issue. In also asked one of my friend who's a factory driver for that platform and asked him about it. He said it's a commonly known problem on the car but they haven't really publicized it.

Look at the xray xb4 and how long it took everyone to find out that the RR block was machined wrong from the very first kits, how long it was for it to reach the internet forums, and how painful it was for xray to publicly admit this was true indeed.

I'm off my soapbox now and counting the hours till 7pm so I can go drive the darn thing!!!

Paul
__________________
When the flag drops, the BS stops.

The train stops at the train station. The bus stops at the bus station. In my office I have a workstation.
Lonestar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2015, 05:49 AM   #378
Tech Elite
 
Lonestar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Switzerland
Posts: 2,345
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Can someone please throw the car on a setup station and tell me what they read on the setup station as rear toe with the stock parts?

I insist on the "read on setup station" rather than "read on the instructions" '

Thanks,
Paul
__________________
When the flag drops, the BS stops.

The train stops at the train station. The bus stops at the bus station. In my office I have a workstation.
Lonestar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2015, 07:31 AM   #379
Tech Master
 
patorz31's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Edmonton Ab
Posts: 1,390
Default

Mine has 3 Degrees (each side) with the V3 hubs. 2.5 Degrees with the EMR Factory .5 aluminium hubs reversed. I had the toe not being equal problem on my D06 but the EMR hubs fixed it.
__________________
Northern Alberta Scale Car Auto Racers Pres. and Promotions
TEAM POWERS, RACE-OPT, SCHUMACHER RACING,R-Factor, Bezerk RC
patorz31 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2015, 01:57 AM   #380
Tech Elite
 
Lonestar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Switzerland
Posts: 2,345
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by patorz31 View Post
Mine has 3 Degrees (each side) with the V3 hubs. 2.5 Degrees with the EMR Factory .5 aluminium hubs reversed. I had the toe not being equal problem on my D06 but the EMR hubs fixed it.
Thanks. Mine has 3.75 deg on both wheels. at least it's symmetric, but it's a tad more than I was expecting I can't really blame the slop in in either the setup bench or the car, as there's none. it is what it is, 3.75.

Anyways, I took the car to the track for its first few packs yesterday. Everything setup as per instructions except a heavy duty xray servo saver (fast sweeper with 5-inch plywood boards...), orange springs and Losi 32.5 all around, 800WT in the diff, same droop F+R (6), Bitty Nardo, and alum chassis (hence the lesser than usual droop at the rear as I knew the chassis + Nardo would bring some steering).

First impressions: holy crap this thing TURNS like crazy. Again, the BD7 '15 isn't supposed to be lazy but the D07 is ludicrous in this area. It actually takes me a couple of packs to get used to because the front end has so much bite and the rear end is rotating like if there was no tomorrow, so I clip a few more corner dots than usual, to be honest... However, in the fast chicane it is absolutely brilliant, defo faster there than the CWF-chassi'ed bd7, but certainly a handful to drive esp. in the sweeper (gasp). It really feels the car drives well but when it loses grip, it loses it for good, and very very abruptly.

After a couple of batteries, back to the setup bench for a basic inspection.

The ballcups are ok, the suspension binds less but still isn't perfect, but a few more packs should solve this.

The shocks have leaked a tiny bit, but again, this is normal under first use. however, the top plastic cap / ball assembly still binds heavily. We go check at the shop if there are spares (could be a bad batch) but none available unless I want to buy a full shock set (which I don't). We check out what sees to be D06 parts but dimensions are different (shorter) so that won't do. Net, I pull out the mother of all pliers with a 10 inch handle, and I "pinch" (crush, really) the darn thing as hard as I can. It's all mashed up and looks ugly now, but it works better and actually provides movement...

Back to the track: The rear end has gained a bit of stability and you can actually "see" the rear suspension is "working" more. Still a bit on eggs for my taste, especially on-throttle.

Let's redo the rear shocks with 35WT. Once back on track, the car has gained a bit more stability without losing the front bite, it's beginning to be really good especially as all parts have now settled in. I'm running 12.9's.

I hand the car over to the trackowner, also one of our local hotshots, we bind his exzes with my 472, do the steering balance, calibrate the V3.1, and off he goes. He likes cars with lotsa steering, so I knew he'd love this one, and he says it's an absolutely killer, there isn't anything he'd like to change on it, and he runs a couple of laps that are 0.1s to 0.2s faster than mine. I watch some of his lines and his braking points, get my car back after a few minutes, and bam, I'm right there too on the next battery.

I spend the rest of the evening running a few more packs just to get used to the insane steering the car provides, I know this is the fast way around the track if I can drive it at the limit *consistently* but it takes some skills which, frankly, I don't quite have. I've run xray for ages and when I bought the bd7 late last year, I was shocked at how it turned, but I can run it for 5mn in a row with a std of 0.15s. The D07 is really taking this to 11, I think it's a matter of getting used to it and finding the right brake setup, to brake super late and hard, leverage the crazy rotation, and drive out of turns on-throttle. Doing it every lap will be a challenge, though.

The driving evening ends up when one of the supposedly unbreakable composite spool outdrives decides it's had enough at 11:10pm and shatters in pieces for no apparent reason, except probably an encounter with the sweeper plywood from much earlier in the evening. The shop has no spares, but one of the guys (merci Tonio!) hands me over one of his, as he's using the optional alloy spool. He also mentions that he only has one spare left, as the other ones he gave to another fast guy recently, who broke his too. The DCJ seems to be ok. I'd rather break a spool outdrive than a joint, frankly...

After 50mns of running, the car has developped a bit of slop but nothing alarming. Just a tiny bit more than I'd like, especially in the steering bellcrank assembly, the bearings have some radial play it seems. The diff leaks a bit via the outdrives, even though I had smothered the o-rings in green slime.

Net: Not sure if it's the car's personality of the alum chassis, but the front end is ludicrous on this car. It's going to take me a while to get used to drive consistently with it, but we all know a twitchy car is faster, at least indoors, so I'll focus on the driving rather than taming it down via setup. There's a few quality issues with some of the plastic parts, but nothing a good plier set can't fix. Value for money is unbelievable.

Next Steps: fix it, and go run it again to get used to the playful nature of the VBC C05 and C10 blocks on order, they just hadn't come in yet, but want to try less rear toe which should also help with more progressive grip loss, as well as front sweep to give a different steering feel.

Paul
__________________
When the flag drops, the BS stops.

The train stops at the train station. The bus stops at the bus station. In my office I have a workstation.
Lonestar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2015, 02:30 AM   #381
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 72
Default

How much droop over ride height (in mm) did you get on the rear? if less than 3 i would maybe test droop settings Front 6 Rear 5.
Nice comments, keep it up like this
Worst87 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2015, 02:53 AM   #382
Tech Elite
 
Lonestar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Switzerland
Posts: 2,345
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Worst87 View Post
How much droop over ride height (in mm) did you get on the rear? if less than 3 i would maybe test droop settings Front 6 Rear 5.
Nice comments, keep it up like this
cheers for the comment

I can barely handle the front end with that droop setup, if I go 6F/5R I'm worried the car will basically spin on itself as soon as I touch the wheel off throttle!

best
Paul
__________________
When the flag drops, the BS stops.

The train stops at the train station. The bus stops at the bus station. In my office I have a workstation.
Lonestar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2015, 12:11 PM   #383
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Fort Collins CO
Posts: 154
Default

I had a composite outdrive break as well, I was told it was because the axles stick out to much, so I cut two threads off the front axles and haven't had a problem since.
Bull_Dog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-14-2015, 10:28 PM   #384
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 20
Default



hello everybody~
Yokolun is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-15-2015, 10:10 AM   #385
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Fort Collins CO
Posts: 154
Default

I ordered a set of xc-05 blocks and when they showed up I got one yc-05 and one xc-05 in the package; can someone please explain to me what the difference in the two are?
Bull_Dog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-15-2015, 01:55 PM   #386
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 31
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bull_Dog View Post
I ordered a set of xc-05 blocks and when they showed up I got one yc-05 and one xc-05 in the package; can someone please explain to me what the difference in the two are?
As the hole in each part is off centred...depending whether you want .5 degrees toe in or toe out depends which block goes on which side of the chassis. Have a look at the hole the hinge pin sits in, its not in the middle. Dunno if ive explained it too good but hope that helps.
69rotang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-15-2015, 02:04 PM   #387
Tech Elite
 
R3VoLuTiOn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Vancouver, Canada
Posts: 2,338
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Default

im torn between picking up a ghost evo or a d07 for vta...
__________________
John Tsang 🏁 VBC Racing 🚗 ORCA RC 🚗 GripworksRC 🚗 MotivRC 🚗 GravityRC 🚗 RC America

http://www.facebook.com/VancouverRRR 🏁 http://www.facebook.com/OvergearedRacing
R3VoLuTiOn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-15-2015, 03:17 PM   #388
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Spring Hill Tn
Posts: 787
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by R3VoLuTiOn View Post
im torn between picking up a ghost evo or a d07 for vta...
Ghost!!!!!! look at the money. I run the original ghost and now do quite well with it; since the plastics have been sorted out and upgrade for the wildfire line v3 plastics
freebird is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-15-2015, 04:43 PM   #389
Tech Master
 
slakr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: NC
Posts: 1,675
Trader Rating: 28 (100%+)
Default

I will be selling two lightly used D06's with 4 chassis (two 2.5 carbon, 2.25 carbon, aluminum) and plenty of spare/tuning parts. Will be letting it all go together for less than 50 cents on the dollar.

I'll do my best to get it posted with photos in the for sale section, but if anyone is seriously interested... please PM me.
__________________
TLR 22 4.0, 22-4 2.0, 8IGHT & 8IGHT-E 4.0~XRAY XB2C~AE TC7.1
Tim aka "slakr" ROAR No. 3-119960
slakr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2015, 11:55 PM   #390
Tech Regular
 
midse's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 329
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Probably already answered but.... Yep sand the flashing from the rear of the planetary gears.
Spool ring.... I lay the spool ring on some glass and pre glue the face with thick Ca, making sure its applied evenly. I then attach it to the spool, remove it and let them air and tack off before final bonding. I check that I didn't make a mistake and let a wad of glue into the spool teeth. I then sandwich the halves on my board with a weight.
Composite out drives are awesome for 13.5 stock. I've only ever broken one which probably saved another component from breaking. VBC have lightweight steel out drives as do Roche/Radtec
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lonestar View Post
I started the build yesterday, with the rear diff and spool.

This is an engineer's car... there are many tricks in the diff design. The super smooth rings, the notch to ensure you put it at the right place, the thick "plastified" gasket, and the icing on the cake the extra holes on the gasket so it doesn't rotate with the assembly. That is totally brilliant, I can't believe it hasn't been done before! The bd7 has notches in the paper gasket but it sure isn't as practical. On the downside, the mold flashings on the satellites at the injection point (crap, that makes me remember i didn't check the planetaries...) are shocking and must be sanded out carefully. Diff feels fine once built but will still be better after a few packs of break-in

I cannot say I like the spool as much though. CA'ing the flange? C'mon... I thought the 21st century started 15 yrs ago. Of course I did a mess with the CA. CA is for tires, damnit... Composite outdrives, I have mixed emotions too, plus you can't check the wear visually as its. Does anyone know of aftermarket (or other brand) alloy outdrives that fit?

Next are shocks... I've only heard good things about them, I was told they are Roche shocks actually, is this the case? Can't wait!

Paul
midse is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 02:40 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net