R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 04-03-2015, 11:43 PM   #361
Tech Elite
 
Yokomo_Ant3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Australia
Posts: 2,405
Trader Rating: 29 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by xterray View Post
Does it matter what way the piston sits as it has 2 different faces
I'm not 100% sure what the difference would be, but we always run with the smooth side on top. We also use the black bladder
__________________
Antoni Caretti

Team Yokomo - Racing Performer - Sweep Racing
Yokomo_Ant3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2015, 06:14 AM   #362
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 159
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Yokomo_Ant3 View Post
I'm not 100% sure what the difference would be, but we always run with the smooth side on top. We also use the black bladder
Ok kool, mines the other way and im running the clear bladder, i also tried the diff in the low position tonight and found it to be much better
xterray is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2015, 07:29 AM   #363
fmm
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 99
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by stiltskin View Post
Epic 1 Designs chassis protectors are awesome. They can be peeled back for maintenance on the car and then reapplied with no issue. Usually available at Gridworksracing.com. Seem to be out of stock at the moment.
Thank you!

I know the epic 1 design protectors and they are great. But I was wondering if there is any precut chassis protector for the d07

Thanks!
fmm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2015, 01:37 AM   #364
Tech Elite
 
Lonestar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Switzerland
Posts: 2,345
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

I've moved on with the assembly of my kit. I changed the plan slightly and now only have shocks to fill and bleed and electronics to install.

Couple of comments/questions:

- the flat spots on the pulley shafts so it doesn't rotate in the motor mount are brilliant! This is one of the things I hate with the Bd7. you never know which one of the m3 screws will start rotating...

- why the different design on the rear hubs? it prevents them from completely "falling", which makes the maintenance on the joints a PITA as the blades get stuck in the diff outdrive. Am I missing sthing here? And why the 0.5 shim instead of "just" molding it differently? I can't believe this is a tuning option.

- what is this front c-hub bit that everyone talks about removing to get more steering throw? I can't see any nipple or anything on the trailing edge of the c-hub...

- Binding parts: for the first time in ages, I decided I'd "rush" the assembly as the beginning was a pure joy. But most ballcups bind, and one of the blades doesn't move smoothly in the outdrive (the right one - haven't figured out if the issue is the blade or the outdrive yet... but the blade had injection mold flashings which I sanded off) so the suspension binds like hell. I've tried the usual tricks on the ballcups (pliers, heat, ...) but besides having burnt parts (the VBC plastic seems to burn very shortly!) I still have a bound suspension.
-> Are you guys doing something special to your ballcups, or using different ones/ballstuds?
-> Which non-vbc blades fit?

Thanks a lot!
Paul
__________________
When the flag drops, the BS stops.

The train stops at the train station. The bus stops at the bus station. In my office I have a workstation.
Lonestar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2015, 03:17 AM   #365
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 102
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lonestar View Post
I've moved on with the assembly of my kit. I changed the plan slightly and now only have shocks to fill and bleed and electronics to install.

Couple of comments/questions:

- the flat spots on the pulley shafts so it doesn't rotate in the motor mount are brilliant! This is one of the things I hate with the Bd7. you never know which one of the m3 screws will start rotating...

- why the different design on the rear hubs? it prevents them from completely "falling", which makes the maintenance on the joints a PITA as the blades get stuck in the diff outdrive. Am I missing sthing here? And why the 0.5 shim instead of "just" molding it differently? I can't believe this is a tuning option.

- what is this front c-hub bit that everyone talks about removing to get more steering throw? I can't see any nipple or anything on the trailing edge of the c-hub...

- Binding parts: for the first time in ages, I decided I'd "rush" the assembly as the beginning was a pure joy. But most ballcups bind, and one of the blades doesn't move smoothly in the outdrive (the right one - haven't figured out if the issue is the blade or the outdrive yet... but the blade had injection mold flashings which I sanded off) so the suspension binds like hell. I've tried the usual tricks on the ballcups (pliers, heat, ...) but besides having burnt parts (the VBC plastic seems to burn very shortly!) I still have a bound suspension.
-> Are you guys doing something special to your ballcups, or using different ones/ballstuds?
-> Which non-vbc blades fit?

Thanks a lot!
Paul
Salut Paul,

Rear hub, I don't know. U can play with the shim. I already try and u know what? I can't feel any difference! So just set as in manual.

Front C-HUB, it's not on the hub, but on the steering block.

Blades : user Roche blade. Ref : ROC-XRT4-10 (Yes, it's for Xray...)

Ballcups... Never had issue...
__________________
Team Awesomatix / Team Roche / Team Corally / Wild Turbo Fan
nicoo2k4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2015, 04:20 AM   #366
Tech Elite
 
Lonestar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Switzerland
Posts: 2,345
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Merci Nicolas pour les infos

I JUST sold my inventory of spare xray blades (including a brand spanking new set of orange Roche ones )

I guess I will reorder some balljoints and hope they fit right... Otherwise I'll pull out the Dremel and start fiddling with polishing compound.

will try to finish the car tonight while wife and kids are still away for a couple of days

Cheers
Paul
__________________
When the flag drops, the BS stops.

The train stops at the train station. The bus stops at the bus station. In my office I have a workstation.

Last edited by Lonestar; 04-08-2015 at 07:35 AM.
Lonestar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2015, 07:25 AM   #367
Tech Addict
 
Airwave's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 722
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

A small point (I can remember where I have posted this information or not)

As the DCJ come pre-assembled, you have to disassemble one of them to mount the spiral clip CW instead of CCW (or CCW instead of CW, I can't remember) so you have no risk of incident once in the knuckes. The spiral clip must totate in the same direction as the wheel... You see what I mean?

Maybe that's not very important with new DCJ, but once you have them disassembled and re-assembled multiple times, the spiral clip will be a little bit loser and you take a risk... I had to give up some qualification runs because of that...
Airwave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2015, 07:33 AM   #368
Tech Elite
 
Lonestar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Switzerland
Posts: 2,345
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Airwave View Post
A small point (I can remember where I have posted this information or not)

As the DCJ come pre-assembled, you have to disassemble one of them to mount the spiral clip CW instead of CCW (or CCW instead of CW, I can't remember) so you have no risk of incident once in the knuckes. The spiral clip must totate in the same direction as the wheel... You see what I mean?

Maybe that's not very important with new DCJ, but once you have them disassembled and re-assembled multiple times, the spiral clip will be a little bit loser and you take a risk... I had to give up some qualification runs because of that...
I perfectly see what you mean as I had done it already. I've been burnt before on my first set of clip-held (as opposed to grub-screw-held) RSD dcj's on my T4. To this day I still like the grub-screw ones better, never had a reliability issue with them, but everyone says the clips ones are better... whatever. Thanks, still, good point

A+
Paul
__________________
When the flag drops, the BS stops.

The train stops at the train station. The bus stops at the bus station. In my office I have a workstation.
Lonestar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2015, 01:25 PM   #369
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 161
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Lonestar, not sure what your building level is like, but I put this kit together at a competition in about 6 hours, from box to track, and didn't run into any of the issues you're having.

I like the fact that the kit comes with a bag of shims so you can really tighten up the car quite a bit. I haven't had such a slop free car in a long time, very nice product.
Rodney Racer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2015, 04:05 PM   #370
Tech Elite
 
Lonestar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Switzerland
Posts: 2,345
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodney Racer View Post
Lonestar, not sure what your building level is like, but I put this kit together at a competition in about 6 hours, from box to track, and didn't run into any of the issues you're having.

I like the fact that the kit comes with a bag of shims so you can really tighten up the car quite a bit. I haven't had such a slop free car in a long time, very nice product.
i m a total beginner man i suck big time...

all jokes aside i m particularly anal about car assembly and maintenance. i usually see issues when other ppl dont. but believe me if i tell you ballcups are tight they ARE tight. and although the car would "work" like that it certainly wouldnt "perform". then again i know ppl who only rebuild their shocks a couple of times a year and are still hella fast. i m not good a driver enough to afford to have a suboptimally assembled car.

for instance... sthing that kept me busy tonight as it s 1am here: the hole on the alum shock cap was too small on two of them in my kit. the plastic shock cap wouldnt go thru all the way and as a result the top one wuldnt sit on the shock body and the plastic onw would pinch the bladder like hell-> leakage liekly. I had to pull out the dremel and bore it out a bit... now all 4 shocks are perfect. I betcha i m not the only one to have experienced this in my kit, but a lot of other users either didnt even see it, and others didnt want to talk about it...

done with the car. indeed there was litzle to work on vs other brands i ve bought the past cple of years but still it wasnt perfect. the fit on my bd7 '15 was a bit better (no shims needed but then again it was mre than $100 mre). here i also had to file a couple of things especially around the c-hub and rear hub assembly to get the suspension to be 100% free, with minimal slop.

will go test the car tomorrow yeepee !!!

good night
paul
__________________
When the flag drops, the BS stops.

The train stops at the train station. The bus stops at the bus station. In my office I have a workstation.

Last edited by Lonestar; 04-08-2015 at 11:47 PM.
Lonestar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2015, 04:06 PM   #371
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 701
Trader Rating: 24 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Max K
Default

VBC Racing USA is having a sale on the D07! 369.99!!!
__________________
RC America - XRAY - HUDY - Trinity - ORCA - Sanwa - ULTI - PROTOform - MaxFX - Slapmaster Tools - ApexRC - SXT
Max K is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2015, 04:57 PM   #372
Tech Champion
 
Korey Harbke's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 6,110
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lonestar View Post
i m a total beginner man i suck big time...

all jokes aside i m particularly anal about car assembly and maintenance. i usually see issues when other ppl dont. but believe me if i tell you ballcups are tight they ARE tight. and although the car would "work" like that it certainly wouldnt "perform". then again i know ppl who only rebuild their shocks a couple of times a year and are still hella fast. i m not good a driver enough to afford to have a suboptimally assembled car.

for instance... sthing that kept me busy tonight as it s 1am here: the hole on the alum shock cap was too small on two of them in my kit. the plastic shock cap wouldnt go thru all the way and as a result wuldnt sit on the shock body but instead pinch the bladder like hell-> leakage liekly. I had to pull out the dremel and bore it out a bit... now all 4 shocks are perfect. I betcha i m not the only one to have experienced this in my kit, but a lot of other users either didnt even see it, and others didnt want to talk about it...

done with the car. indeed there was litzle to work on vs other brands i ve bought the past cple of years but still it wasnt perfect. the fit on my bd7 '15 was a bit better (no shims needed but then again it was mre than $100 mre). here i also had to file a couple of things especially around the c-hub and rear hub assembly to get the suspension to be 100% free, with minimal slop.

will go test the car tomorrow yeepee !!!

good night
paul
Usually when I build a fresh car, things are a tiny bit tight. Usually between the interface between the arms and c-hubs, and the rear arms to rear hub carrier. More often than not... a quick practice run and everything frees up nicely.

I've never had a problem with ball cups being too tight though. Mine have usually always been perfectly acceptable. Sometimes I get the weird one that has a burr on the bottom that seems to hang up a bit, but remove that and you are on your way.

Also, for those of you interested:

Shock Piston Orientation:

With the Groove down, this increases laminar flow through the piston holes upon compression, but when the shock rebounds, there is more turbulent flow creating slightly increased rebound damping. This generally is the best way to run it.

With the groove up, the opposite is true. Slightly increased compression damping, and decreased rebound damping. This allows increased weight transfer AND a slight increase of immediate load transfer to the tires. I use this option if grip is really low and you need to dig the tires into the track a little harder.

Hope that helps!

-Korey
__________________
Seido Speed Works - Apex RC - Prospec America - RC Mission America - LRP - Protoform - AVID - 1Up Racing - Xenon - Xpert - Sanwa - SpeedZombi - Slapmaster Tools - Turtlemaster Racing - Seattle RC Racers
Korey Harbke is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2015, 05:44 PM   #373
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 8
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lonestar View Post
i m a total beginner man i suck big time...

all jokes aside i m particularly anal about car assembly and maintenance. i usually see issues when other ppl dont. but believe me if i tell you ballcups are tight they ARE tight. and although the car would "work" like that it certainly wouldnt "perform". then again i know ppl who only rebuild their shocks a couple of times a year and are still hella fast. i m not good a driver enough to afford to have a suboptimally assembled car.

for instance... sthing that kept me busy tonight as it s 1am here: the hole on the alum shock cap was too small on two of them in my kit. the plastic shock cap wouldnt go thru all the way and as a result wuldnt sit on the shock body but instead pinch the bladder like hell-> leakage liekly. I had to pull out the dremel and bore it out a bit... now all 4 shocks are perfect. I betcha i m not the only one to have experienced this in my kit, but a lot of other users either didnt even see it, and others didnt want to talk about it...

done with the car. indeed there was litzle to work on vs other brands i ve bought the past cple of years but still it wasnt perfect. the fit on my bd7 '15 was a bit better (no shims needed but then again it was mre than $100 mre). here i also had to file a couple of things especially around the c-hub and rear hub assembly to get the suspension to be 100% free, with minimal slop.

will go test the car tomorrow yeepee !!!

good night
paul
I had same issue with shock cap(upper alu) and cap(plastic)
They might change molding parts a little bit (either upper cap, and low ball connector plastic parts) , very tight in my case

That's why I had to cut them all. When I put d06 shock cap(plastic parts) It was okay.

I cannot believe VBC racing dosen't consist with part quality (alu and plastic enev graphite)

It is my third kit (2 D06, 1 D07)

I hope VBC RACING remain the quality as a hi grade car brand.
accord12 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2015, 10:17 PM   #374
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 161
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lonestar View Post
i m a total beginner man i suck big time...

all jokes aside i m particularly anal about car assembly and maintenance. i usually see issues when other ppl dont. but believe me if i tell you ballcups are tight they ARE tight. and although the car would "work" like that it certainly wouldnt "perform". then again i know ppl who only rebuild their shocks a couple of times a year and are still hella fast. i m not good a driver enough to afford to have a suboptimally assembled car.

for instance... sthing that kept me busy tonight as it s 1am here: the hole on the alum shock cap was too small on two of them in my kit. the plastic shock cap wouldnt go thru all the way and as a result wuldnt sit on the shock body but instead pinch the bladder like hell-> leakage liekly. I had to pull out the dremel and bore it out a bit... now all 4 shocks are perfect. I betcha i m not the only one to have experienced this in my kit, but a lot of other users either didnt even see it, and others didnt want to talk about it...

done with the car. indeed there was litzle to work on vs other brands i ve bought the past cple of years but still it wasnt perfect. the fit on my bd7 '15 was a bit better (no shims needed but then again it was mre than $100 mre). here i also had to file a couple of things especially around the c-hub and rear hub assembly to get the suspension to be 100% free, with minimal slop.

will go test the car tomorrow yeepee !!!

good night
paul
Oh I'm pretty anal on builds as well. Little things like making sure links are the same length with the marked arrows oriented. Ball cups so that the open ended ones are on the outer link and the captured cups on the bulkheads side.

Since the topic of shocks comes up, I also made sure that the small notch in each of the adjustment collars lines up the same on each shock. But again I didn't run into any issues with the caps either.

Actually the only 2 glitches I ran into on the kit assembly was shorted 3 button head screws, which I believe someone else mentioned, and one of the shock bladders had a flaw in it that caused it to leak, like a pin hole size.

Good luck on the rest of your build, I think you'll find it a very flat, easy to drive car.
Rodney Racer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2015, 11:56 PM   #375
Tech Elite
 
Lonestar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Switzerland
Posts: 2,345
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodney Racer View Post
Oh I'm pretty anal on builds as well. Little things like making sure links are the same length with the marked arrows oriented. Ball cups so that the open ended ones are on the outer link and the captured cups on the bulkheads side. .
this is not being anal - this is following instructions

being anal is cleaning shock shafts and bodies with motor spray before assembly to remove any manufacturing residue

being anal is drilling the diff half so the four tiny screws dont capture and pressure air pockets which would possibly deform the diff half and create a bind/leakage

being anal is checking that every grub screw on which a ball joint gets added sticks out exactly 3.00mm with digital calipers

you get the idea. This is the shortest time i ve spent builsing a car (wanted to go run it tonight as family is back tomorrow!) and still it took me about 12hrs or so even though i had pretty much drop-in electronics from the bd7 i sold this week...usually i spend 20-ish hours at last
__________________
When the flag drops, the BS stops.

The train stops at the train station. The bus stops at the bus station. In my office I have a workstation.
Lonestar is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 06:08 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net