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Old 01-04-2016, 10:56 AM   #691
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It's not a direct swap I can tell you that. You'll have to lengthen the turn buckles to attach to the 98796 knuckles. I'm not sure about the point of connection, I can find out tonight. The main reason I didn't shim any different because I didn't have any longer ball studs.
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Old 01-04-2016, 04:58 PM   #692
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Thanks guys, I didn't realise there was a plastic knuckle
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Old 01-04-2016, 09:50 PM   #693
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I have another question. I noticed on the set up sheet that it has a 1-2 box with a line pointed to the shock mounting hole on the front arms and a 1-2-3 box for the rear arms to choose from. What this for? Shim size? Different arm options?

Thanks again,
Joe
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Old 01-05-2016, 12:04 AM   #694
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Originally Posted by Joe Maxey View Post
I have another question. I noticed on the set up sheet that it has a 1-2 box with a line pointed to the shock mounting hole on the front arms and a 1-2-3 box for the rear arms to choose from. What this for? Shim size? Different arm options?

Thanks again,
Joe
Yep they are for the different length arms
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Old 01-05-2016, 07:49 AM   #695
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Yep they are for the different length arms
Has anyone tried the different arms? What would it do compared to say wider or narrower hexes?
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Old 01-05-2016, 09:58 AM   #696
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Ok I just checked out the different arms. They are the same but with different shock hole mountings.

The #1-#2-#3 box on the setup sheet for the shock mount holes on the arm is a reference to the number of dots next to the shock mount hole.

#1 is the inner hole, #2 is the outer hole (front arms) #3 is the outer hole on the rear arms.

How that makes sense.

Joe
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Old 01-05-2016, 04:36 PM   #697
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Ok after looking at the set up sheet I have another question.

The sheet shows 3mm of shims needed to adjust the wheel base. 1.5 front of the arm and 1.5 behind the arm. My car has .5mm slop. Has anyone else have this issue?

Thanks.
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Old 01-05-2016, 07:34 PM   #698
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Yeah had same thing. I just added .5mm shims to all the arms to take up slop without binding suspension. No issues for past few months.
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Old 01-06-2016, 03:40 AM   #699
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yeah it's weird that one, the team setups have an extra .2mm but I added .5mm. I don't think it matters too much as long as you have the inboard spacers the same.
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Old 01-12-2016, 09:24 PM   #700
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anyone where I can get parts in the US...
I finished building it and been trying to get parts before taking it to the track...
over 3 weeks....the stuff I need is on backorder...at tower.

Chubs..
arms
2.5 blocks..
etc..

I can't go to the track knowing the chubs will most likely pop in a few minutes...

thanks
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Old 01-13-2016, 02:42 AM   #701
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Originally Posted by olhipster1 View Post
anyone where I can get parts in the US...
I finished building it and been trying to get parts before taking it to the track...
over 3 weeks....the stuff I need is on backorder...at tower.

Chubs..
arms
2.5 blocks..
etc..

I can't go to the track knowing the chubs will most likely pop in a few minutes...

thanks
Not in the US, but I have been getting some parts from these guys in the UK. Free worldwide shipping and it's reasonably fast

http://stores.ebay.com.au/radicoolra...ub=10231918012

Also you can quite easily use the tcxx hubs if you are stuck
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Old 01-17-2016, 03:39 AM   #702
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Tested a bunch of stuff today, car was pretty good! One thing I found quite sensitive on the car is the vertical angle of the shocks - if you aren't running kit wheelbase you may need to add some shims behind the upper or lower shock mounts to get the shock vertical again. Even 0.5mm made a big difference for me
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Old 01-17-2016, 04:30 AM   #703
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Tested a bunch of stuff today, car was pretty good! One thing I found quite sensitive on the car is the vertical angle of the shocks - if you aren't running kit wheelbase you may need to add some shims behind the upper or lower shock mounts to get the shock vertical again. Even 0.5mm made a big difference for me
Have you later with shims to shorten or lengthen the camber links? I have just stuck with 1mm up to now. What does it do?
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Old 01-17-2016, 12:00 PM   #704
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Tested a bunch of stuff today, car was pretty good! One thing I found quite sensitive on the car is the vertical angle of the shocks - if you aren't running kit wheelbase you may need to add some shims behind the upper or lower shock mounts to get the shock vertical again. Even 0.5mm made a big difference for me
Good job Craig at the race!!
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Old 01-17-2016, 02:37 PM   #705
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Have you later with shims to shorten or lengthen the camber links? I have just stuck with 1mm up to now. What does it do?
I also haven't touched them on this car, which is a bit funny because it's one of standout features of the Pro5. From previous experience shorter should be more reactive and longer more stable.

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Good job Craig at the race!!
Thanks Hiro! Thanks for the advice
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