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Old 10-24-2014, 02:34 AM   #31
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Just an update, changed my timing to 50* and am running 3.8 fdr. Seems pretty quick for now, quicker then my skill level anyway.
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Old 10-24-2014, 05:20 AM   #32
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FYI TORG and I both have Motorlysers and both have found that on our Kill Shots (we both have the RPM Stator) the end bell timing is 15 degrees too high. I have a D4 (torque stator) and the end bell timing reads high too but not as high as the KS.
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Old 10-24-2014, 12:01 PM   #33
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So what is the max timing you can safely run?
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Old 10-24-2014, 12:57 PM   #34
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You don't really want to try and push to a "max timing" in my opinion. It can even change depending on the track. Sometimes I roll it back slightly if I want a bit more punch, or roll it forward if I need a little more top end.

However, to get a good idea of the max timing that your motor can handle you'll want to monitor the temperature and the mAh drawn during a run.

If you are running at 50*, coming off at around 140C and used 1800 mAh in a 5 minute run (strictly for example), then you bump the timing up to 58* and come off at 190C and used 3700 mAh in another 5 minute run then you went too high and need to find the sweet spot.

Now here is where a little patience comes in handy. For myself, I'll go back down to around 50*, run another 5 minute run to get confirm my baseline data, then assuming it is close to the original data, I bump it up 2* then run it again. Now you record the data and repeat.

You'll repeat this until you see a significant jump in the temps and mAh. It may be hard to spot at first, but its there. Once you find that, roll it back 1* and run again.

You want to make sure you do this all within an hour as you want your driving, the track and the track conditions to be the same for every run.

Another way is to get a device which records your amp pull and RPM like the Eagle Tree Logger. This makes it easy. Just pop the pinion off, free-rev the motor and find the highest RPM with the lowest Amp draw.

Hopefully this helps!

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Old 10-24-2014, 03:34 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by Boostgod View Post
So what is the max timing you can safely run?
I'm not the expert on that, but many have reported running KS 17.5s at 70 degrees end bell timing, which is in the neighborhood of 55 degrees. Others say not to do that like Ipittman whose post hit while I was typing. My KS 17.5 (RPM stator with 12.5mm torque rotor) at 60 degree end bell timing still has a very low amp draw. So check the amp draw as you advance the timing and stop when it starts to climb rapidly, gear down (fewer teeth on the pinion), and check temps frequently AND use a fan when/if the temps start approaching 160F. Lots of debate on the max temp, but I try to avoid going over 180F. I think Dieter said the max is something between 160 and 180F I just don't have the KS flier that came with the motor. (The D4 he said 160F is max). Bottom line be careful. I don't do 5 minute runs until I'm comfortable the timing and gearing won't overheat the motor. Oh and also check the lap times too, you don't want a sweat spot that is slower than something else.

Last edited by John Wallace2; 10-24-2014 at 03:50 PM.
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Old 10-24-2014, 04:53 PM   #36
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Too much confusion! Just run a 17.5 Novak ballistic(12.5mm rotor) at (3.2fdr to 3.4fdr), and N timing, and forget about it !!!
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Old 10-24-2014, 08:17 PM   #37
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Check trinities website under one of the team drivers setup. I believe stated not to crank timing past 55* with 3.55 FDR or something along those lines. I love this motor and am very excited about trying a D4 HT Maxilla for 17.5 Touring Car.
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Old 10-24-2014, 09:28 PM   #38
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Check trinities website under one of the team drivers setup. I believe stated not to crank timing past 55* with 3.55 FDR or something along those lines. I love this motor and am very excited about trying a D4 HT Maxilla for 17.5 Touring Car.
I can't find any team setups on their site. Can you possibly provide a link?
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Old 10-25-2014, 02:08 PM   #39
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Too much confusion! Just run a 17.5 Novak ballistic(12.5mm rotor) at (3.2fdr to 3.4fdr), and N timing, and forget about it !!!
No Thank You! Had too much frustration and trouble getting my Novak 25.5 motor to run correctly. Don't want to go through that again.
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Old 10-25-2014, 02:19 PM   #40
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Questions??

We are talking about 17.5 motors here buddy...
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Old 10-25-2014, 03:02 PM   #41
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Kind of obvious he's talking about novak as a brand since you brought it up.

Btw. We're talking about trinity kill shots here buddy...
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Old 10-25-2014, 03:05 PM   #42
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Novak motors are junk and have nothing to do with the original question. I personally run a pair of torque kill shots in my tc4 and my t4. I run both as they came out of the box( I think 30 degrees of timing) and LOVE them. My t4 runs just as fast as every other truck and comes off track about 130-140. On my tc4 I run on a medium sized indoor track with a 3.6 fdr. I keep up down the straight but with my car(and yours) being shaft drive I pull everyone out of the corners and the few faster guys have to catch me. I also come off the track at about 100-120 degrees.
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Old 10-25-2014, 03:45 PM   #43
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Well, your 3.6fdr gearing is wrong if you're only getting 120 degrees..... You need 3.4fdr or something... No wonder the Xray guy was faster..... My Novak does 3.19fdr which other motors and the killshot can't without smoking... Novaks rule...

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Old 10-25-2014, 06:00 PM   #44
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Well, your 3.6fdr gearing is wrong if you're only getting 120 degrees..... You need 3.4fdr or something... No wonder the Xray guy was faster..... My Novak does 3.19fdr which other motors and the killshot can't without smoking... Novaks rule...
anyone that races with this guy. is he even fast?
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Old 10-25-2014, 06:21 PM   #45
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anyone that races with this guy. is he even fast?
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