Originally Posted by sbd

I will measure and let you know. I am still on my first inserts after many crashes. When the ball studs get lose I put a drop of middle CA and screw them gently. After the glue cures you can tighten them even more than on new inserts. Works for me this way already an year now.

Originally Posted by CarbonJoe

Or just use a 3mm button head screw from the bottom.

Originally Posted by CarbonJoe

Or just use a 3mm button head screw from the bottom.

Originally Posted by pphaneuf

A problem with that is that the hole is much bigger, and in a funny shape, to fit that plastic insert. So the head of the screw wouldn't have much to hold on to...

Originally Posted by sbd

I guess he means screwing the bolt into the plastic insert from below. This is applicable to X1 as the shock is mounted on balls and then grubscrew but the X10 shock is mounted on ball studs. Hence the only option is CA...

Originally Posted by pphaneuf

I could trim the insert so that it kept the screw centered, but it might be a bit weak, I'll see...

My favourite option would really be to replace the plate with the X1'16 and forget all about this, if the holes are in the right place?

Originally Posted by sbd

Once I get to my shop I will measure, but keep in mind that even if the holes are OK, you may not be able to use the X1 16 part as its hole is drilled for countersink bolt, so it will not work easily with the X10 ball stud...

Originally Posted by pphaneuf

Argh, yes, you're right, because it's a touring car shock.

Xray, hurry up with that X10'16!

Originally Posted by Customworksking

ugh

Originally Posted by Customworksking

what body is best