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Old 01-14-2016, 03:43 AM   #61
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I will measure and let you know. I am still on my first inserts after many crashes. When the ball studs get lose I put a drop of middle CA and screw them gently. After the glue cures you can tighten them even more than on new inserts. Works for me this way already an year now.
Or just use a 3mm button head screw from the bottom.
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Old 01-14-2016, 03:53 AM   #62
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Or just use a 3mm button head screw from the bottom.
The head of the button screw may be hitting the battery especially at the rear...
On my X1 it is ok as I use an 1s format battery and there is more than enough clearance.
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Old 01-14-2016, 06:12 AM   #63
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Or just use a 3mm button head screw from the bottom.
A problem with that is that the hole is much bigger, and in a funny shape, to fit that plastic insert. So the head of the screw wouldn't have much to hold on to...
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Old 01-14-2016, 06:40 AM   #64
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A problem with that is that the hole is much bigger, and in a funny shape, to fit that plastic insert. So the head of the screw wouldn't have much to hold on to...
I guess he means screwing the bolt into the plastic insert from below. This is applicable to X1 as the shock is mounted on balls and then grubscrew but the X10 shock is mounted on ball studs. Hence the only option is CA...
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Old 01-14-2016, 07:26 AM   #65
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I guess he means screwing the bolt into the plastic insert from below. This is applicable to X1 as the shock is mounted on balls and then grubscrew but the X10 shock is mounted on ball studs. Hence the only option is CA...
I could trim the insert so that it kept the screw centered, but it might be a bit weak, I'll see...

My favourite option would really be to replace the plate with the X1'16 and forget all about this, if the holes are in the right place?
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Old 01-14-2016, 07:52 AM   #66
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I could trim the insert so that it kept the screw centered, but it might be a bit weak, I'll see...

My favourite option would really be to replace the plate with the X1'16 and forget all about this, if the holes are in the right place?
Once I get to my shop I will measure, but keep in mind that even if the holes are OK, you may not be able to use the X1 16 part as its hole is drilled for countersink bolt, so it will not work easily with the X10 ball stud...
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Old 01-14-2016, 07:54 AM   #67
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Once I get to my shop I will measure, but keep in mind that even if the holes are OK, you may not be able to use the X1 16 part as its hole is drilled for countersink bolt, so it will not work easily with the X10 ball stud...
Argh, yes, you're right, because it's a touring car shock.

Xray, hurry up with that X10'16!
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Old 01-15-2016, 02:52 PM   #68
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Argh, yes, you're right, because it's a touring car shock.

Xray, hurry up with that X10'16!
It is here and nothing too exciting other than price. Still no floating servo mount. Maybe I should customized my own chassis
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Old 01-28-2017, 08:15 PM   #69
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ugh
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Old 01-29-2017, 05:44 AM   #70
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ugh
Something's come up? I'm just about to make a transplant, putting the pod bulkheads of my X12'16 into my X10'16...
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Old 01-30-2017, 06:21 PM   #71
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what body is best
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Old 01-30-2017, 07:41 PM   #72
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what body is best
I rather like the MIX-RC 78224:

http://www.mix-rc.de/default.asp?ex=...82&kat_id=1027
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Old 01-30-2017, 07:49 PM   #73
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sorry for WORLD GT-R
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