Tekin RSX in 1s 1/12 pan car help needed
#1
Tekin RSX in 1s 1/12 pan car help needed
Hi all,
has anyone experienced issues with the RSX ESC getting hot when running 1s lipo?
I have just installed my RSX into my 12th scale pan car running a 10.5t Gen2 motor in stock / blinky mode, however when I turn on the ESC and run the motor the ESC gets hot very quickly, within about 60 seconds.
I am also running an RC Dynamics DC booster to help with running the 1s lipo, all wiring and capacitor is in the correct polarity, the ESC firmware is set to 3.2v 1s cut off, I really can't see anything wrong yet still the ESC getting hot problem exists.
The gearing is set to 65 mmpr so its not over geared.
Temp wise the ESC already flashes LED's 1&2 after about 30 seconds, I don't want to push it further than that for fear of blowing the ESC.
Has anyone else experienced this?
Any help you can give is appreciated guys!
Thanks
has anyone experienced issues with the RSX ESC getting hot when running 1s lipo?
I have just installed my RSX into my 12th scale pan car running a 10.5t Gen2 motor in stock / blinky mode, however when I turn on the ESC and run the motor the ESC gets hot very quickly, within about 60 seconds.
I am also running an RC Dynamics DC booster to help with running the 1s lipo, all wiring and capacitor is in the correct polarity, the ESC firmware is set to 3.2v 1s cut off, I really can't see anything wrong yet still the ESC getting hot problem exists.
The gearing is set to 65 mmpr so its not over geared.
Temp wise the ESC already flashes LED's 1&2 after about 30 seconds, I don't want to push it further than that for fear of blowing the ESC.
Has anyone else experienced this?
Any help you can give is appreciated guys!
Thanks
#2
Sure you did the wiring correct??
Dont have the schematic here that quick but dont you have to remove the red esc wire from the receiver connector or something like that (or was it keeping the esc turned off)?
I think you cannot do all the normal esc wiring AND get a booster directly from the battery to the receiver.
You can do a search in the Tekin R1 thread or ask at the tekin forum.
Dont have the schematic here that quick but dont you have to remove the red esc wire from the receiver connector or something like that (or was it keeping the esc turned off)?
I think you cannot do all the normal esc wiring AND get a booster directly from the battery to the receiver.
You can do a search in the Tekin R1 thread or ask at the tekin forum.
#3
What does the on-board temp gauge say on how hot the ESC is?
#4
Tech Regular
When I ran my Tekin RS in 1/12th, I used to solder a servo connector directly to the battery posts and run the booster directly from that to the receiver. Double side tape the ESC power switch facing the chassis to keep it off permanently and prevent "helpful" corner marshals from turning it on and overheating the BEC. No need to remove the red RX wire. I don't own an RSX, but this was correct for the RS.
#5
I've now soldered the booster wires to the little solder tabs underneath the posts and it seems to have cured the problem.
Thanks for the replies guys.
Thanks for the replies guys.