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Old 09-02-2014, 11:58 PM
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Default Fine tuning and flapping bodies

I'm just started in modified TC.

Have already tried several bodies.

Currently I use a Protoform Mazda6 GX LW body. This is a thin lightweight body.

Tuning and super precise setups are important on these 1/10 onroad TC's and a 0,1mm shim in the right place can change the setup.

I was just wondering about these very thin bodies. They are only supported by the 4 mounting holes and is essentially a big floppy piece of plastic.

Can these bodies really maintain a stable shape when these cars are travelling at top speed in relation to aerodynamics?

It seems odd that the bodies are not more rigid or supported in any way?
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Old 09-03-2014, 12:11 AM
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They are just fine. Just be sure to add front foam support to the front bumper or the front of the body to support the front end. This keeps the front from tucking under the car and also helps maintain down force up front. The front bumper should rest right up against the body or foam blocks. The the back end you can run a stiff wing such as the Yokomo 4.0 or the stiff Protoform wing. That's all you really need.
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Old 09-03-2014, 12:14 AM
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Its strange as I didn't think about a body as a setup item until I had a consistent car under me, but I find there are a few tips and tricks that can make a difference with light weight shells.

I usually have 2 shells with me, one setup in a normal position and one setup forward. With the one setup forward I can get a little extra steering when the track is right and grippy. I also put an extra strip of thick but still squishy foam between the bumper and the bodyshell.

On my Yokomo the body touched the front shock tower this helps a little as well.

The other thing I like is the threaded adjustable body mounts, so you can get the body at the exact height all the time, and I also don't have the body pins hard up against the shell to give it some flex along with the car.

Because I hate painting body shells, I also put a small layer or shoe goo and a layer of fibre tape reinforcement at the very front and rear side to stop when getting tapped from the side and body getting stuck.

last trick, don't use the wing that comes with the lightweight shell, the Yokomo 4.0 wings are really good for a non full carbon fibre option.
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Old 09-03-2014, 12:21 AM
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Thanks, I already have an extra layer of foam glued to the front bumper to support.

About the shoe goo, does it dissolve the paint in any way. I have just repaired my body with some "regualar" superglue and fibre net, and the glue dissolved the paint slightly.

I hope the the shoe goo can be applied without any damage to the paint?
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Old 09-03-2014, 12:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Salkin
I hope the the shoe goo can be applied without any damage to the paint?
As I am lazy painter I only use Tamiya polycarbonate spray paint, and I have never had shoe goo eat away at it.
Shoe goo also keeps enough flex in the shell as well.
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Old 09-03-2014, 01:38 AM
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Originally Posted by evochick
As I am lazy painter I only use Tamiya polycarbonate spray paint, and I have never had shoe goo eat away at it.
Shoe goo also keeps enough flex in the shell as well.
Shoe Goo does not stick well to the water-based paints (Fascolor, Createx, etc).
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Old 09-03-2014, 02:11 AM
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I also use the Tamiya can spray paint, so I think I will try the shoe goo.
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