254LikesTamiya TRF419
04-12-2015, 04:23 PM
#1411
Check back in the thread for the photos. 100% sure I've done it right. You can fix the slop by either installing it "wrong" (using the further spaced holes, which means the cups don't sit flush on the flange) or by using around 0,4-0,6mm of 10mm shims.
04-12-2015, 05:27 PM
#1412
Tech Rookie
HI GUys
Im having a problem with my 419, basically the last 2 meetings ive done, my front right wheel has become so hot, that its melted the plastic on the axle and caused the wheel to come off, and then in the final on my last meeting i changed to foams and basically it managed to get so hot that it melted the plastic of the wheel to the hub,
Ive assembled to instructions, but also the drive train is binding somewhere and isnt rolling freely with motor not in use,,
Any ideas,
Thanks
Im having a problem with my 419, basically the last 2 meetings ive done, my front right wheel has become so hot, that its melted the plastic on the axle and caused the wheel to come off, and then in the final on my last meeting i changed to foams and basically it managed to get so hot that it melted the plastic of the wheel to the hub,
Ive assembled to instructions, but also the drive train is binding somewhere and isnt rolling freely with motor not in use,,
Any ideas,
Thanks
04-12-2015, 06:30 PM
#1414
04-12-2015, 06:33 PM
#1415
04-12-2015, 07:07 PM
#1416
Tech Rookie
im going to tear it apart tomorrow and see whats the deal cause its frustrating when the only other 419 was raced in the same class and had no issues,
thanks again
04-12-2015, 10:09 PM
#1417
By the way, can the spur gear be changed without having to remove the diffs from there bulkheads? I can't seem to remove the spur assembly because of the belts restricting it
04-12-2015, 11:54 PM
#1418
Yes, remove the front belt. Slide it off the soool and then undo the two lay shaft screws and it comes out (by sliding backwards.
04-13-2015, 01:51 AM
#1420
04-13-2015, 04:32 AM
#1421
The sway bars are mounted like 20 years ago, not that anyone short of the new Xray T4 is much better. Some solutions of the past were much better (in TC I think only Xray used them, but they were a carryover from 1/8 nitro cars), but somewhat costly (complicated) and heavy.
The current bar mounts are fine IMO, just need to take your time when setting up (as with any sway bar). Get them set the same side to side and dropping freely (which is a 5min job during the build) and there are set and shouldn't ever need adjustment. The only bit that could need improving is the plastic moulding, so that it keys in vertically too the bulkheads... but as it should never need to come off, it's not a major issue. And if I'm switching bars, I make sure to set them up anyway, as normally there is some small difference in the behavior, so the drop links need resetting.
Tamiya has a lot of catching up to do, but they instead chose to play with things that were good like shock absorbers (their were always some of the best in the business and a pleasure to build, not sure why they needed to put money into developing the large bore shocks when other parts of the car needed serious updates).
Seems they finally decided to go with the Yokomo type split suspension blocks, so that's out of the way. They did manage to get a good motor mount (could be improved still), and almost did a good gear diff (if it wasn't for the fiddliness of putting it together). Still needs shims in the kit (Tamiya are you listening?) so we don't need to borrow from other manufacturers or rely on our spares box.
And then it's the never to go away problem of plastics which are still fragile (C-hubs, arms, etc).
I don't have an issue with the ballcups, I don't drill all of mine and I don't see that as such a big deal. I actually think they finally solved the problem of slop in their balljoints with the new ballnuts (TRF) which for once fit nicely and without any play and I think their plastic is better than most being soft so you can pull it off quite a few times before it becomes sloppy.
One problem I found was that if you need some higher than normal ground clearance (our track is very bumpy) so your chassis doesn't drag on the floor, the lower shock balljoints are too short. They are also very soft, but paradoxically develop slop when pulled on and off a lot.
The irony is that all the fanboys who could not stomach my criticism a year ago now are silent or did an about face or sold their cars and moved on.
04-15-2015, 07:48 PM
#1422
http://kentech.blogs.se/2015/04/15/s...ases-20237635/
Tamiya has made their own aluminium chassis plate, will be shown shizuoka this year
Tamiya has made their own aluminium chassis plate, will be shown shizuoka this year
04-15-2015, 08:05 PM
#1423
Would be based on what Rheinard used to win at Rnd2 ETS - good for high grip/carpet!
04-16-2015, 12:15 AM
#1424
Looking to only buying 1 brand of diff and shock oil for consistency. I was considering muchmore because it seems to be on most set up sheets however, arrowmax is cheaper and can be purchased locally. I know this sounds a bit silly but is there any real advantage to choose muchmore?
04-16-2015, 12:57 AM
#1425
Consistent and yes, on setup sheets as you say so if you trying to replicate it makes it easy. It's also clear and clean - doesn't stink, stain or make a mess like some other do (ala yokomo or TRF gear diff oil)
Not 100% sure if MM oil is CST or not. Doesn't say on the bottle from memory.
I just stocked up on about $100 worth from mushroom ages ago (probably less actually) of common weights for diff and shock oil - won't be running out in a hurry and need to replace. Way cheaper than anything local, sadly. At the time anyway.
Not 100% sure if MM oil is CST or not. Doesn't say on the bottle from memory.
I just stocked up on about $100 worth from mushroom ages ago (probably less actually) of common weights for diff and shock oil - won't be running out in a hurry and need to replace. Way cheaper than anything local, sadly. At the time anyway.