malkiy

iTrader: (10)

Here is another picture of the chub installed.

rodneyddalton1

iTrader: (2)

this looks interesting. is it any good?

hanzo3

iTrader: (55)

You need to read the 73 pages to find out.

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Two diffs, totally the ticket... well three is better, just I'll build one with 2.5mil to occasionally use in the front

@Art_Mighty

iTrader: (7)

STV-336R ALUMINUM FRONT HUB CARRIER (CASTER ANGLE 5 DEGREES)

lagcisco

iTrader: (40)

Thanks for the pics and link!

Curious, I noticed on that servo horn, the ball isn't right in the middle of the horn, it's offset a little to the inside much like my Evo6 said it should be but I don't understand why you'd do this on a 418/419 because unlike the Evo6, the other side of the link connecting to the steering bellcranks isn't offset as well.

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

It's to do with getting the horn at the correct angle to the link. You want it as close to 90deg as possible for equal side to side throw.
Actually, if your using the kit servo saver, try mounting the link in the inner outer hole. It will make the length of the horn longer, and you'll need to crank the horn over... But it should provide a better resolution to the steering (20mm horn length seems to be most popular ATM)

Marcika

Hey guys,

Two questions:
1. What makes the difference if wheelbase is longer by pivot block (B-B to C-C) or making it wider by spacer (1mm). Of course rest remain unchanged (toe is adjusted)
Other words: is it better to have wider/narrower wheel from pivot block or use spacer independently changing pivot block takes more time. I am interested driving carasteric change.

2. I have experienced - on mid grip carpet - wider front by 2mm vs rear makes car more stable, however on asphalt wider rear is better. Do you have similar exp? I tried 188mm vs 186mm

Thanks
Marton

FMW

iTrader: (1)

http://www.teamtrf.com/index.php/201...gory/39-trf419

If anyone would like a clean blank set up sheet along with Marc's Round 2 ETS set up.

Obsidian

iTrader: (10)

Curious as to what brands of diff oil actually have "certified" CST ratings. What are common brands that are the "go to" for some of you?

Cheers.

cplus

iTrader: (11)

They are all over the shop. All of them. Some even say "CST" and some say "CTS" (centistroke is the word the acronym is supposed to stand for) and then many just say "WT" for weight which is just a label.

You really need to stick to one brand and work off relatives.

Personally I use muchmore. It's clean silicone based for a start - others that are mineral based are like motor oil and make a mess (TRF/Xgear)

Obsidian

iTrader: (10)

Yes, I agree with your statements. I do steer clear of mineral based oils too, silicon appears to be more stable/consistent and more importantly inert in regards to the typical o-ring.

Just to have a decent selection, tonight I'm going order muchmore perfect diff oils 1000 to 3000. I believe it is available in increments of 500.

I did notice that MR33 brand has weight ranges in smaller increments, but whether or not I would notice such a difference is questionable.

Thanks for your feedback!

cplus

iTrader: (11)

2000,3000,4000,5000 would have 99% of your bases covered when starting to play. You could book end with 1000 and 6/7000 if you really wanted to. I wouldn't bother with "half" weights in the muchmore stuff personally.

Gordie88

iTrader: (2)

MM setup from that site I wouldnt try... seems way off for mod racing... 1000k for diff?

cplus

iTrader: (11)

Gotta be a typo. 1000 is kit oil. MRs rd 2 setup in his FB page has 5000.