jimmylim85

It bad to know the gear diff still leaks even applied "anti-wear grease" with MuchMore Gear Diff Oil #2000. I wonder if Yokomo Dot 3 gear diff oil in which it seems thicker.

Any suggestion?

cplus

iTrader: (11)

AW grease will not help at all.

Gtr r34 m-spec

iTrader: (29)

I used green slime (not a lot) with the red o-rings, lightly sanded the rear of the bevel gears and built it as per kit instructions.

I'm very happy with the diff and how smooth it is.

I think over filling the diff with oil might make it leak?

cplus

iTrader: (11)

^^correct. I think that's a common mistake. You want it to cover the shafts and "lap" the top of the spider gears.

cplus

iTrader: (11)

Now a question from me, has anyone had any issues with pinion fitment over the 418 (or others)

I'm finding that the output shaft of my LRP x20 is too short for the chassis to fit a pinion "nose" out and when you put it nose in, it doesn't align as well as I'd like with the spur.

Note how far in the shaft is. So far you can barely see it. I'm using a pinion with a variable offset grub screw and it still doesn't hold. Std 9mm pinion.


Nose in works, but the pinion won't align.


Pinion hanging off the end of the spur.


This wasn't a problem with the 418. I think the motor mount itself might be a bit thicker.

Using my Trinity D4 is fine, it has a longer output shaft.

malkiy

iTrader: (10)

Think they mentioned the motor mount being .5mm outboard when compared to the TRF418.

redbones

Bust out the dremel and extend the flat part of the rotor shaft towards the motor. You should be able to seat the pinion further to center it to the spur.

Raman

iTrader: (94)

I think that is the problems and some are mistaking it for leaking. I overfilled mine and did not initially notice until after a test run.

I removed the diff to inspect. No leak around output shafts. Just some residue where to halves meet. I cleaned it with degreaser and tooth brush. Now will run it again to see if any extra fluid remains.

JimmyMac

iTrader: (2)

I had problems with my LRP x20. The shafts are shorter than other motors. I had to run a certain brand pinion for it to work on my 418. I would say run a thicker spur if possible and run short pinions. Not sure if the CRC are short enough, but I was thinking the old black Robinson Racing pinions.

cplus

iTrader: (11)

Damn stupid of LRP to do that really.

Time to throw away all my LRP Gear

Racing4Evo

iTrader: (2)

Use Panaracer brand pinions. I had this problem with a lot of other pinion brands. They are also quieter when paired with Panaracer spur gears.

TB03Racer09

iTrader: (1)

Kawada pinions work well too!

aoizip

iTrader: (1)

hi guys,

sorry for the noob questions, what are some of the common suspension blocks to get? coming from yokomo side it is easy to get the block as they are all number, but tamiya are all in letters and it is kind of confusing.

Thanks,

Aoi

cplus

iTrader: (11)

These are panaracer Spurs and xenon pinions. Panaracer don't make a 48p pinion to my knowledge. The only one I could find came in a xenon packet

I've used kawada "super duralumin" pinions - they are soft as butter. No good outdoors on asphalt.

I tried to see if it was any different to the xenon - no dice, exactly the same problem.

I've compared the motor mount today, the 419 is noticeably thicker.

It sits more on the centreline and also extends further back. This results in the end of the rotor shaft sitting back further by 1-2mm.

Enough to stuff me up!!

b20btec

iTrader: (11)

They do make 48P but in regards to your issue have you tried CRC pinions? They're much slimmer than most brands.