grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

More things I'd suggest checking:
1) Make sure your droop is set right (or just back the screws way off for now). If the droop screw is pushing the arm up above where it wants to be at ride height, that'll cause all kinds of badness. Might be something you overlooked with a fresh build.
2) Make sure your shock towers are straight. With the car on droop blocks or flat on the setup board, measure from top of tower to setup board on each side and make sure it's even. If the shock tower is crooked, it'll make the preloads weird. If it's not counter-sunk, you can probably loosen the screws and shift it a bit to get it straight.
3) Check to see if the springs are the same length left and right. It's not a huge deal if they're a bit different, but it does mean you'll need uneven preload collar settings to get it balanced. Just something to note.

If you've checked everything you can check, then yeah, start by getting the ride heights right on all 4 corners before you hit the scales. I also like to set droop with a droop gauge, and then feel the tension on the springs while the wheels are in the air to make it even left and right. If you do that, it should be close when you hit the scales.

-Mike

blf

Just a general comment but why is the 419 "only" approx. $450 when MSRP is close to 1100?

I'm going to be building a TB EVO 6 but wondering if the 419 would be a better option or does it depend on track conditions.

I see the wheelbase is 251mm on the 419 vs 257mm on the EVO 6 ------ but aside from that, what is the big difference between belt vs shaft ?

Thanks guys, newb to 1:10 on road

niznai

Because Tamiya lives in lala land where they see eskimoes and leprechauns that make money out of cow dung.

That is not a difference induced by the transmission used. Wheelbase is adjustable beyond that anyway.

Best way to figure it out is to build two equivalent cars with shaft and belt and compare. Depending on motor class you'll find the answer more or less quickly.

blf

Sounds good I was thinking of doing that (building both) ---- why are there no US dealers selling the 419 or am I missing the right vendors? I guess RC Mart is my only option?

cplus

iTrader: (11)

Essentially because Hong Kong os closer to Japan.

The 419 boxes are probably sitting on the docks waiting for lazy customs to clear them.

Then off to the distributor. Then off to the dealers.

blf

Any reason to wait for a US Dealer as opposed to grabbing one of these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tamiya-1-10-...item20f28bc6b2

Qatmix

Mainland europe had theirs at the start of December..

goin2drt

iTrader: (77)

Or you could order from RCMart directly which is who is selling that in EBay for $30 less.

Marcika

Hey,
Problem looks being fixed by re-screwing most of the screws. Motor holder made some tweak and springs a bit. Thanks for the comments. Now the car is 310-315g/corner.

noworries

iTrader: (42)

I will keep my 417V5. see my post. 518-495-0703. text me for pics

cplus

iTrader: (11)

Yup. I think US customs are just plain slow.

Atleast they get them, the Aus importer brings in zilch with a TRF header card.

niznai

No, it's because they are geared to trade hence they move swiftly plus there is no HK dealer hence everybody orders individually when they want not when the stock needs resupply or when HQ decides to send them new stock.

cplus

iTrader: (11)

Apart from he specifics of the first line, that's pretty much what I was saying.

Customs. Wholesaler. Local distributor. Stores.

Many hands. All taking a cut as well.

Rcmart likely buys direct from Tamiya HQ in Japan I expect.

You really do like to argue with anyone and everything huh.

niznai

None of what you said reflects that decision is made elsewhere in the case of authorised dealers/importers.

Yes, RC Mart buys directly, but not when Tamiya wants them to.

jonston

iTrader: (4)

Ive had a tb evo 6 before i bought the 419, its nice but its just to heavy to be competitive.