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Old 12-27-2014, 10:06 AM   #586
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Originally Posted by cplus View Post
Hey definitely do on the lower end kits.

Hell, you could build a TA06 tourer or CR-01 crawler with pretty much 100% hop up parts.

The 418/419 come pretty much fully loaded though. Compared to xray/yoko that are missing say floating servo mounts, DCJs or carbon parts the tamiya kits are not bad.

The ball nuts are a nice addition though, but $30 to get setup (incl. the hollow screws) is a little much!
Consumer level kits are cheap and that's what they should be.

TRF kits are not.

Not sure where you buy your grubscrews but I have a good nut and bolt shop just around the corner where I can get any length from 3mm to 25mm in 2mm increments and they're peanuts.

Tamiya's ball nuts are a different story. Nearly 10 bucks a set of 4 (plus postage)? And by the time you take out all the slop on all joints (steering and suspension) by using these, you're out of pocket way above any other kit on the market. This is not okay when the competition has slop free ball joints in their kits as standard (which is the way it should be). What's so difficult, anyway? Slop free joints are not an optional extra on a top spec car.
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Last edited by niznai; 12-27-2014 at 12:51 PM.
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Old 12-27-2014, 11:27 AM   #587
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Hey,

Two more questions :

1. Do you know what to use for little plastic in K parts called as spare parts?

2. Which holes do you use in front outdrive? There are two positions....short makes so much play left-right...

Thanks
Marton
darn now i have to check my car.... i didn't even use the instructions for drivetrain lol

i see hole put pin in..
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Old 12-27-2014, 12:29 PM   #588
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Thanks for the clarification

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Originally Posted by kentech View Post
On the front joints, it's shown in the manual which holes to use. They even added a "note direction" text there. You should use the holes that are not in-line with the driveshaft slots. Check the manual again and you will see.
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Old 12-27-2014, 02:53 PM   #589
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Not sure where you buy your grubscrews but I have a good nut and bolt shop just around the corner where I can get any length from 3mm to 25mm in 2mm increments and they're peanuts.
I was referring to the TRF hollow screws which are drug money

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Originally Posted by niznai View Post
And by the time you take out all the slop on all joints (steering and suspension) by using these, you're out of pocket way above any other kit on the market.
You're using them everywhere? Hell. Stuff that. I didn't think slop was that much of an issue, I only use the TRF ball nuts for convenience of shock removal. It didn't even occur to me to use them on all the joints.
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Old 12-27-2014, 03:19 PM   #590
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darn now i have to check my car.... i didn't even use the instructions for drivetrain lol

i see hole put pin in..
Risky. Especially when the pin sizes are all so close.
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Old 12-27-2014, 03:30 PM   #591
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Originally Posted by cplus View Post
I was referring to the TRF hollow screws which are drug money



You're using them everywhere? Hell. Stuff that. I didn't think slop was that much of an issue, I only use the TRF ball nuts for convenience of shock removal. It didn't even occur to me to use them on all the joints.
Hollow screws? What do you need that for?

You're using hollow screws but think slop is okay? Do you race your cars or put them in glass boxes on shelves and list all the hop ups in your signature?
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Last edited by niznai; 12-29-2014 at 08:21 AM.
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Old 12-27-2014, 05:24 PM   #592
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Hollow screws? What do you need that for?

You're using hollow screws but think slop is okay? Do you race your cars or put them in glass boxes on shelves and list in your signature all the hop ups?
I bought them last time for the 418 before knowing better. Can't recall which of the build blogs (McPhee/kentech/rcracer) I copied it from. I'm not specifically advocating their use, that's for sure. But if you've got the coin and don't mind spending it - good luck

I don't think slop is "ok" I'm saying I didn't notice it as an issue on my car - but I haven't got much to compare to.
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Old 12-27-2014, 05:26 PM   #593
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Originally Posted by kentech View Post
Just to reach weight. The car was 1280g without weights, so I added 75g since the limit is 1350g.

Nothing special about my setup. You can read all equipment I use on my blog. Should be easy to reach this unless you use a very heavy battery. Remember you can play with the position of the receiver, transponder and ESC as well. Added most (50g) of the weight in the center of the car behind the servo mount and in front of the motor mount at about center line. The rest (25g) in front of the steering posts.
Thank you fort the response.
Would you recomend adding 40g extra (which would make my car 1380g) to have a perfect L/R balance, or is it better to save 40g and have a very slightly unbalance L/R ?

Thanks.
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Old 12-27-2014, 10:07 PM   #594
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Thank you fort the response.
Would you recomend adding 40g extra (which would make my car 1380g) to have a perfect L/R balance, or is it better to save 40g and have a very slightly unbalance L/R ?

Thanks.
You can offset the location of your lipo with. More/less spacers on the lipo stopper - have you considered that?
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Old 12-28-2014, 01:38 AM   #595
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Rear posts are a bit further back on the 419.
Can you define "a bit"? is it 1mm or less?

I slipped my old 417/418 holed body onto the 419 just fine without any modifications or adjustments when building according to kit.
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Old 12-28-2014, 02:16 AM   #596
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Yes, the Body from the 418, EVO 6 all fit the TRF419
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Old 12-28-2014, 04:58 AM   #597
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Originally Posted by cplus View Post
You can offset the location of your lipo with. More/less spacers on the lipo stopper - have you considered that?
I have, which does give better results for the front end (about 10g difference on each side) but the rear still causes some issues. There's a bigger gap at 10-25 g.
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Old 12-28-2014, 08:02 AM   #598
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Originally Posted by torg View Post
Can you define "a bit"? is it 1mm or less?

I slipped my old 417/418 holed body onto the 419 just fine without any modifications or adjustments when building according to kit.
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Originally Posted by Simmi View Post
Yes, the Body from the 418, EVO 6 all fit the TRF419
Technically yes they fit. They are not exact. The rear posts are about a mm or two wider and farther back about the same. It is not an exact fit but you would need to only make your current rear holes a bit larger to get them to work.
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Old 12-29-2014, 04:44 AM   #599
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Originally Posted by MatJ View Post
Thank you fort the response.
Would you recomend adding 40g extra (which would make my car 1380g) to have a perfect L/R balance, or is it better to save 40g and have a very slightly unbalance L/R ?

Thanks.
I would try to make it as close to perfect at just about weight limit. Don't want to carry any extra weight around. As I say, it should be possible to get a very good balance at 1350 which is the normal limit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by torg View Post
Can you define "a bit"? is it 1mm or less?

I slipped my old 417/418 holed body onto the 419 just fine without any modifications or adjustments when building according to kit.
I measured it when I built the car but didin't write it down. I believe the difference was 1 or 1.5mm.
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Old 12-29-2014, 11:50 PM   #600
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New Alu Chassis TRF 419 from Samix

More on RedRC
http://www.redrc.net/2014/12/samix-4...is/#more-90792
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