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Old 12-26-2014, 01:39 PM   #571
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Where or how do you do the carbon weights as well as your CF on the transponder? I have done some basic CF sticker sheet from eBay but never looks like that.
The carbon pattern weights are from a Japanese company with a funny name...Dinky Speed if I remember right. Don't think they're available anymore. If someone know where to get more, let me know, because they are by far the best looking CF pattern weights I have seen.

The CF tape on the transponder is from a sheet I have had for years. I belive it's from Kyosho but not sure.
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Old 12-26-2014, 04:39 PM   #572
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Kentech, you mention adding 75g of ballasts, is this to reach weight limit or to get the perfect balance ?

I ask this because I was wondering, is it worth adding 20-40 g to balance my car perfectly or best to leave it lighter at 51/49% side to side balance ?

Finally, where do you set the Front/rear limit ? How the hell do you achieve 51/49 F-R balance ! I'm closer to the 55/45 region!

Thanks !
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Old 12-26-2014, 05:35 PM   #573
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Are Yokomo ball studs the same size as Tamiya, i want to use the Yokomo BD7 ball ends. I like how they have a hole for your driver. I've sanded the Tamiya ones down but it looks ghetto.

Also where can I get the Roche red bone blades... everywhere i look they are out of stock
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Old 12-26-2014, 11:39 PM   #574
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Smokem have the blades normally.
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Old 12-27-2014, 01:38 AM   #575
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Are Yokomo ball studs the same size as Tamiya, i want to use the Yokomo BD7 ball ends. I like how they have a hole for your driver. I've sanded the Tamiya ones down but it looks ghetto.

Also where can I get the Roche red bone blades... everywhere i look they are out of stock
I used to put on Yokomo ball cup for its holes, but this time I drilled 3mm hole from the underside of the cups, the flash would come out on the top end, I found this does not affect the smoothness of the balls.

I had a ball with the 419, its a notch up from the 418, in terms of quality and performance. The only complain is that Tamiya should include the hex sus balls 42231 in the kit.
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Old 12-27-2014, 02:25 AM   #576
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Im looking for a yokomo yrf2 enyone sale one
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Old 12-27-2014, 03:16 AM   #577
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I had a ball with the 419, its a notch up from the 418, in terms of quality and performance. The only complain is that Tamiya should include the hex sus balls 42231 in the kit.
They even recommend to use them on the box!

Interesting you think it is a step up in quality - what sort of things do you think are better??
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Old 12-27-2014, 03:38 AM   #578
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They even recommend to use them on the box!

Interesting you think it is a step up in quality - what sort of things do you think are better??
Of course they do. They cost a bomb. I reckon Tamiya makes more money selling parts that should be in the kits as "upgrades" than kits.

Curious about the notch up in quality myself seeing that since the first kit I bought their quality is consistently quite high. The only improvement I have found over the years is in less slop with the newer balljoints/cups, but all of these have been available for a while now albeit not always as part of the kits.
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Old 12-27-2014, 03:53 AM   #579
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Originally Posted by goin2drt View Post
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Where or how do you do the carbon weights as well as your CF on the transponder? I have done some basic CF sticker sheet from eBay but never looks like that.
tq had some 3racing ones, sold out now. search ebay for 3RAC-BW04
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Old 12-27-2014, 05:27 AM   #580
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Of course they do. They cost a bomb. I reckon Tamiya makes more money selling parts that should be int he kits as "upgrades" than kits.
Hey definitely do on the lower end kits.

Hell, you could build a TA06 tourer or CR-01 crawler with pretty much 100% hop up parts.

The 418/419 come pretty much fully loaded though. Compared to xray/yoko that are missing say floating servo mounts, DCJs or carbon parts the tamiya kits are not bad.

The ball nuts are a nice addition though, but $30 to get setup (incl. the hollow screws) is a little much!
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Old 12-27-2014, 07:05 AM   #581
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Hey,

Two more questions :

1. Do you know what to use for little plastic in K parts called as spare parts?

2. Which holes do you use in front outdrive? There are two positions....short makes so much play left-right...

Thanks
Marton
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Old 12-27-2014, 08:22 AM   #582
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tq had some 3racing ones, sold out now. search ebay for 3RAC-BW04
Thanks thats perfect. Nothing on ebay but a few places have them. I will just wait for TQ.

Cheers.
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Old 12-27-2014, 09:47 AM   #583
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Originally Posted by MatJ View Post
Kentech, you mention adding 75g of ballasts, is this to reach weight limit or to get the perfect balance ?

I ask this because I was wondering, is it worth adding 20-40 g to balance my car perfectly or best to leave it lighter at 51/49% side to side balance ?

Finally, where do you set the Front/rear limit ? How the hell do you achieve 51/49 F-R balance ! I'm closer to the 55/45 region!

Thanks !
Just to reach weight. The car was 1280g without weights, so I added 75g since the limit is 1350g.

Nothing special about my setup. You can read all equipment I use on my blog. Should be easy to reach this unless you use a very heavy battery. Remember you can play with the position of the receiver, transponder and ESC as well. Added most (50g) of the weight in the center of the car behind the servo mount and in front of the motor mount at about center line. The rest (25g) in front of the steering posts.
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Old 12-27-2014, 09:52 AM   #584
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Originally Posted by Marcika View Post
Hey,

Two more questions :

1. Do you know what to use for little plastic in K parts called as spare parts?

2. Which holes do you use in front outdrive? There are two positions....short makes so much play left-right...

Thanks
Marton
On the front joints, it's shown in the manual which holes to use. They even added a "note direction" text there. You should use the holes that are not in-line with the driveshaft slots. Check the manual again and you will see.
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Old 12-27-2014, 09:52 AM   #585
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They even recommend to use them on the box!

Interesting you think it is a step up in quality - what sort of things do you think are better??
Just to boot, the 419 now comes with ti coated sus pins all around, the blue o-rings for the shocks and the red o-ring for the diff, all these used to be options with the 418. The machining of the kit is the usual Tamiya quality, at least I don't have to screw the motor mount by a certain sequence or secure the upper deck with the chassis on a piece of flat surface to ensure the chassis is not wrap like I had with the other cars. I just could not understand that Tamiya opt not to include the hex sus balls while they included the upgraded sus pins and o rings
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