254LikesTamiya TRF419
07-22-2016, 09:06 AM
#2731
Tech Master
iTrader: (32)
Hi there,
I have just finished the building of my 419x w/o electronics and these are my main concerns:
I will attach electronic this afternoon and hope to get it running as soon as possible!
Thanks in advance for your comments.
Regards
I have just finished the building of my 419x w/o electronics and these are my main concerns:
- Shocks and zero rebound: after several tries, the most I can get is 2mm rebound or so. As said before in this thread, the more I tight the cap the more rebound I get :S. I will try in the future with black o-rings. In the meantime, I think it is good enough as it is.
- Spool and bearing holders too tight inside front bulkheads: the the diff in the rear bulkheads was nice and it was spinning freely even after attaching bulkhead covers but... I cannot say the same for spool and front bulkheads. It was really difficult to attach the bearing holders into the front bulkheads and, after that, spool does not spin freely at all... It spins, but it seems too tight for me compared to the rear diff. After covering bulkheads, things were not worse but, as soon as I attach the front shock tower, things became even worse
. People in my club said that it seems a bit tight but anyway, that I should not be worried until 3 or 4 runs... What do you think? should I try to rebuild from scratch or loosen and tighten bulkheads+top deck+shock tower screws? - Top plate plate and pulley: I would say it is not binding but just for 0,1mm
. I've seen some of you sand the inner side of the carbon plate but others (Qatmix I think) were able to align the plate to avoid binding without sanding. I would like to get from you some advice/trick/suggestion to do that cause I am not able to achieve a good feeling after several attempts (flat surface, cross pattern when tightening, using all screws to attach bulkheads, using anti tweak bar, etc, etc). People in my club said that it will be "sanded" anyway when running a 5.5t but I would like to get some control over that instead of waiting to see the results :S.
I will attach electronic this afternoon and hope to get it running as soon as possible!
Thanks in advance for your comments.
Regards
1. If you haven't done so, try drilling a little hole in the plastic shock cap. This will help lessen the rebound effect. Also, make sure you add the spring retainer if you are closing the shock with the shaft all the way in. There is nothing wrong with the blue orings. You should not have to swap them out.
2. The spool cups have two holes for the pins. Make sure you are using the correct holes. You might have used the wrong holes and this widens the spool too much. Look at the manual closely and you'll see the correct orientation.
3. It looks as if you use the included spur, or any other spur with the same thickness, you don't have to sand the top deck. It's when you use alternate spurs (wider) you have to shave it down.
Good luck.
Jose
07-22-2016, 10:00 AM
#2732
Tech Initiate
07-22-2016, 10:02 AM
#2733
Tech Initiate
1. If you haven't done so, try drilling a little hole in the plastic shock cap. This will help lessen the rebound effect. Also, make sure you add the spring retainer if you are closing the shock with the shaft all the way in. There is nothing wrong with the blue orings. You should not have to swap them out.
2. The spool cups have two holes for the pins. Make sure you are using the correct holes. You might have used the wrong holes and this widens the spool too much. Look at the manual closely and you'll see the correct orientation.
3. It looks as if you use the included spur, or any other spur with the same thickness, you don't have to sand the top deck. It's when you use alternate spurs (wider) you have to shave it down.
Good luck.
Jose
2. The spool cups have two holes for the pins. Make sure you are using the correct holes. You might have used the wrong holes and this widens the spool too much. Look at the manual closely and you'll see the correct orientation.
3. It looks as if you use the included spur, or any other spur with the same thickness, you don't have to sand the top deck. It's when you use alternate spurs (wider) you have to shave it down.
Good luck.
Jose
07-22-2016, 12:02 PM
#2734
Tech Initiate
1. If you haven't done so, try drilling a little hole in the plastic shock cap. This will help lessen the rebound effect. Also, make sure you add the spring retainer if you are closing the shock with the shaft all the way in. There is nothing wrong with the blue orings. You should not have to swap them out.
I do not usually add spring retainers when (re)-building shocks, but I think that it could be the trick. I would say they are zero rebound right now taking into account that retainers will shorten a bit the total travel (I guess).
. Pins were in the wrong holes. They are clearly not spaced at same distance from cup edge. Now drive train spins like a charm .
.Thank you very much for your help, Jose! Aimed shots just by reading my concerns! Bravo!
Best regards
07-22-2016, 01:52 PM
#2735
Tech Master
The Axom spur should not be rubbing. I have the Axom on mine and I have no issues.
The bulkheads might be twisted. When assembling the car you should fit 6 screws in each of the lower bulkheads (not 4 like the instructions). This ensures they are straight. Then attach the upper bulkhead parts and then the shock towers.
The bulkheads might be twisted. When assembling the car you should fit 6 screws in each of the lower bulkheads (not 4 like the instructions). This ensures they are straight. Then attach the upper bulkhead parts and then the shock towers.
07-23-2016, 09:58 AM
#2736
1. If you haven't done so, try drilling a little hole in the plastic shock cap. This will help lessen the rebound effect. Also, make sure you add the spring retainer if you are closing the shock with the shaft all the way in. There is nothing wrong with the blue orings. You should not have to swap them out.
2. The spool cups have two holes for the pins. Make sure you are using the correct holes. You might have used the wrong holes and this widens the spool too much. Look at the manual closely and you'll see the correct orientation.
3. It looks as if you use the included spur, or any other spur with the same thickness, you don't have to sand the top deck. It's when you use alternate spurs (wider) you have to shave it down.
Good luck.
Jose
2. The spool cups have two holes for the pins. Make sure you are using the correct holes. You might have used the wrong holes and this widens the spool too much. Look at the manual closely and you'll see the correct orientation.
3. It looks as if you use the included spur, or any other spur with the same thickness, you don't have to sand the top deck. It's when you use alternate spurs (wider) you have to shave it down.
Good luck.
Jose
07-24-2016, 01:12 AM
#2738
Tech Master
07-25-2016, 05:48 PM
#2739
Tech Rookie
Whats the part number for the non-tape battery tie down?
07-26-2016, 12:27 AM
#2740
Tech Initiate
Hey @ all,
...there is a new project in my mind....
AKTIVE REAR Steering system...
is there a C-hub ALU with 0 degree witch fit to the front 419 wishbone?
ideas?
thx
regrads
Harald
...there is a new project in my mind....
AKTIVE REAR Steering system...
is there a C-hub ALU with 0 degree witch fit to the front 419 wishbone?
ideas?
thx
regrads
Harald
07-27-2016, 02:36 AM
#2745
