JS

iTrader: (70)

Very cool.
Appreciate the info.

Marcika

Marc set up from the weekend, wiener neustadt Austria (Toni onroad series):

https://m.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10153223105613768&id=666673767&set= a.10151625276478768.1073741825.666673767&source=48

Some note what i could recognize when he gave the car to my hand:
- regular hexball used
- C-hub new (419)
- new rear tower
- motor screws: 1-2 (total 3)
- titanium screws in top deck
- motor mount piece connected to top deck fully removed
- 4 screws in the towers

Very high quality (smooth) and grip of the track, sunny day. It was a type of club race with top guys from the world, so much fun. No finals due to raining on sunday but at least perfect two days time qualification. Marc was 2nd.

I have tried part of his set up on my stock car (13.5t), found wider car works better for me.

Marton

PDR

iTrader: (31)

Just a couple of quick questions:

Which c-hub part number?
Motor screws arrangement? 1 front, 2 rear?

Seems interesting for a relatively high grip track.

Phil.

cplus

iTrader: (11)

So does that mean when it says 1mm on the sheet it is actually 1mm? So meaning either 1mm plus a regular hex ball or 0mm with a H5?

Marcika

C-hub: looked to me the 419 kit version, but not the old one for sure!

Motor screw: yes, 1 front 2 rear!

Marcika

I wanted to check bumsteering since per set up he had 2mm...i added 1mm since 419hexball is installed on my car. So overall i had also 2mm.

Marcika

link for the track
https://m.facebook.com/857052531031890/photos/a.901894879880988.1073741830.857052531031890/901894836547659/?type=1&source=48

makoat

Marc definetly used low profile hex balls without the +1mm. I think they were some kind of low friction ones, since they were greyish instead of blue. He also didnīt use the normal low friction ballcups but softer ones that look a bit darker and steering arms that have the same design as the 416/417 ones but also a few mm longer.

cplus

iTrader: (11)

The ball studs he used would be the fluorine coated ones. I'm running them on my car. Just a little bit nicer.

54208
54209

cheapskate.brok

iTrader: (10)

Was thinking of using the 416/7 arms too, as the existing ones warp/tweak over time. Suffice to say car would change it's character gradually

Simmi

Had a club race today.
Victory has presented today by my own mistake. It is still the driver

Car was so fast that I thought I was dreaming. My Best Times tumbled more and more. Fastest time driven. But I did not change a lot that I could say it has located.

Please check this in my setup that I have added.

We drive 13.5 in blinky mode.

Marcika

Thx for sharing. Quick question: have you tried E or D pivot block to the rear?did F take away speed and cornering a bit in 13.5T? My experience in stock is that 3 degree in rear makes me slower....but stable/easy to drive.
This short wheelbase is what i would like to try... What is the major difference between 2.5mm vs 1mm in front?
Thanks

acutts

Hi Simmi why do you change your bearings to X-RAY? Are these better than the tamiya kit ones?

Simmi

I drive the 419 rear already with XA-E, XA-D, X-E and X-F. But I have to say the X-F makes the car super directly. But you get the problem of losing the car in fast corners. A compromise which you have to enter.
I just feel more comfortable with a safe car and the times were simply outstanding. My personal best times down.

I took over the wheel base setup from BD7 and not changed since. Simply feels good.

cplus

iTrader: (11)

2 screws in the towers huh - I assume top? And was that with the new dowels?

And the motor mount - 2 screws total?

Why the X-ray ball stud use? Strength or binding/smoothness?