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Old 08-30-2014, 12:33 PM   #121
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The starter holes to reduce rebound are also a nice plus.
starter holes? did not notice those. please explain. and anybody having issues with the steerring rack bearings. there is some chatter on the FB page about them. i did have one of the bearings drop out during assembly. im planning on taking them out and lock tighting them in. anybody else see this? black edition.
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Old 08-30-2014, 12:38 PM   #122
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starter holes? did not notice those. please explain. and anybody having issues with the steerring rack bearings. there is some chatter on the FB page about them. i did have one of the bearings drop out during assembly. im planning on taking them out and lock tighting them in. anybody else see this? black edition.
Yes, underneath the plastic shock cap piece, there is a place to drill a hole to reduce rebound. It was a nice touch as it made it easier to drill straight through the cap with a small 1.1mm drill bit.
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Old 08-30-2014, 12:40 PM   #123
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nice. i was planning on getting an extra set of caps and ends. my vta hpi vintage rims have been digging into the shock ends at full lock. since they have such an offset it was expected. i may flop the arms over and move the position in a hole. then re tune. heres a pic of the car at full clip. using all the track.
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Old 08-30-2014, 08:23 PM   #124
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starter holes? did not notice those. please explain. and anybody having issues with the steerring rack bearings. there is some chatter on the FB page about them. i did have one of the bearings drop out during assembly. im planning on taking them out and lock tighting them in. anybody else see this? black edition.
I saw the FB post on that too. So I checked mines out. I didn't come across it during assembly, but when I pulled up on the steering rack, the left bearing popped out... So I cleaned the area out with motor spray, and used red loctite. Hopefully it will hold.
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Old 08-30-2014, 10:58 PM   #125
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mine is getting a tear down and reassembly with the low fric belts and pulleys. ill be checking the steering rack out to make sure nothing comes apart or will. going to be checking all the bearings and cleaning them out and using that new dry lube on them. going for the least amount of drag possible. our carpet season starts on the 20th of sept. gonna be very competitive so i need to be ready.
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Old 08-30-2014, 11:04 PM   #126
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I saw the FB post on that too. So I checked mines out. I didn't come across it during assembly, but when I pulled up on the steering rack, the left bearing popped out... So I cleaned the area out with motor spray, and used red loctite. Hopefully it will hold.
Wow lol. I would have went with green myself. Well...it's in there now!
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Old 08-30-2014, 11:15 PM   #127
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Originally Posted by dragonracing View Post
nice. i was planning on getting an extra set of caps and ends. my vta hpi vintage rims have been digging into the shock ends at full lock. since they have such an offset it was expected. i may flop the arms over and move the position in a hole. then re tune. heres a pic of the car at full clip. using all the track.
I had to move the arms and shock positions on my old VTA as well. Those rims will eat up lower shock ends. lol


Got the 2015 on the track this morning with the stock setup. Not so good on a parking lot track. Changed the front yellow springs to green and the 1.4 roll bar to a 1.3 roll bar. Laid the shocks down to second hole from bottom with the blue springs. 37.5 shock oil all around. Wanted to get more comfortable with it before I raced it but the quals started and so I grabbed my set up 2013 to race. Qualified 2nd but then we had a break before the main so I grabbed the 2015 again to play with. Man it got good. Really easy to drive and not so twitchy. I decided to use it for the main even though it didn't have my fast motor in it. So I ended up 1st and I think I also took 1st in the summer series. I am very impressed with this car. Putting the fast motor in it this week. Lol
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Old 08-30-2014, 11:38 PM   #128
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anybody got the conversion for the springs. the arc springs are listed in grams. and all the others are in lb/in. just want to know where these fall on the rsd spring chart. i have a full set of rsd springs (short) so i just want to know where the arc's fall. they are .26 blue/ .27 green / .28 yellow. and thats in grams as its listed on their site.
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Old 08-30-2014, 11:49 PM   #129
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anybody got the conversion for the springs. the arc springs are listed in grams. and all the others are in lb/in. just want to know where these fall on the rsd spring chart. i have a full set of rsd springs (short) so i just want to know where the arc's fall. they are .26 blue/ .27 green / .28 yellow. and thats in grams as its listed on their site.
Google is your friend...no seriously, it's all just rumor that they take all your info and copulate with it.

http://www.endmemo.com/sconvert/kg_mmlb_in.php
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Old 08-30-2014, 11:52 PM   #130
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Google is your friend...no seriously, it's all just rumor that they take all your info and copulate with it.

http://www.endmemo.com/sconvert/kg_mmlb_in.php
thanks mike. thats the one i was trying to find. i cold not remember what korey told me lol.
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Old 08-31-2014, 01:08 AM   #131
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Brand new baby awaiting electronics for our upcoming carpet season...3 weeks and counting...
Daddy's little nightmare is packaged with:
Aluminum Chassis
Low Friction Eyelets
Hard Arm Set
Aluminum Low Friction Ballstuds
Low Friction Pulley kit
Xpert Lee Martin Signature Edition PI-3401 Low Profile Digital Brushless Servo (Lucky #13!!!)
Low Friction Front and Rear belts
Aluminum Steering Arms
She's fully lubed up with DryFluid and ready to roll. Yeah I went a little crazy with the hop ups. They aren't really needed, but when she's my baby, she gets treated right. (Don't tell my wife)






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Last edited by Carnage9270; 08-31-2014 at 01:20 AM.
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Old 08-31-2014, 02:41 AM   #132
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Pretty much done. Still need to do some alignment work. Had some red alum screws so I added a little accent to it. I highly recommend to get the low friction belts. Night and day diff in drive line efficiency. Had some hand fitting to do, but it resulted in a super precise, free moving suspension

The space provided for gearing on the floating motor mount is not too big. You will need to adjust using a smaller spur. In my case, I had to drop down to an 88 spur from 96 to fit the FDR I needed. Also, this is not the car's fault, but the orca motor's can screw head hits the upper deck (can't move back all the way) when using a 48/88 and smaller. So you need to install the motor tilted like in the pic to clear the screw head. Would be nice if ARC revised the motor mount to be more blinky friendly Heck who invented blinky anyway

Shocks are 3 hole with AE 32.5 as a starter and sprung with HPI silver. Well, see how it works on the track.
Don't mind the ghetto transponder
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Last edited by inpuressa; 09-04-2014 at 12:21 PM.
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Old 08-31-2014, 01:20 PM   #133
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Originally Posted by Carnage9270 View Post
Brand new baby awaiting electronics for our upcoming carpet season...3 weeks and counting...
Daddy's little nightmare is packaged with:
Aluminum Chassis
Low Friction Eyelets
Hard Arm Set
Aluminum Low Friction Ballstuds
Low Friction Pulley kit
Xpert Lee Martin Signature Edition PI-3401 Low Profile Digital Brushless Servo (Lucky #13!!!)
Low Friction Front and Rear belts
Aluminum Steering Arms
She's fully lubed up with DryFluid and ready to roll. Yeah I went a little crazy with the hop ups. They aren't really needed, but when she's my baby, she gets treated right. (Don't tell my wife)






He sleeps with this thing too. got to check it out yesterday. very free drive train. like awesomatix free. cant wait to add my low fric parts and dry lube to the bearings. gonna be a fun carpet season.
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Old 08-31-2014, 04:08 PM   #134
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Is it just me but when there is a lot of pics on a page my computer freezes up and I cant scroll???
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Old 08-31-2014, 04:15 PM   #135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inpuressa View Post
Pretty much done. Still need to do some alignment work. Had some red alum screws so I added a little accent to it. I highly recommend to get the low friction belts. Night and day diff in drive line efficiency. Had some hand fitting to do, but it resulted in a super precise, free moving suspension

The space provided for gearing on the floating motor mount is not too big. You will need to adjust using a smaller spur. In my case, I had to drop down to an 88 spur from 96 to fit the FDR I needed. Also, this is not the car's fault, but the orca motor's can screw head hits the upper deck (can't move back all the way) when using a 48/88 and smaller. So you need to install the motor tilted like in the pic to clear the screw head. Would be nice if ARC revised the motor mount to be more blinky friendly Heck who invented blinky anyway

Shocks are 3 hole with AE 32.5 as a starter and sprung with HPI silver. Well, see how it works on the track.
Don't mind the ghetto transponder
I have grinded down the front motor mount arm right at the angle almost to the screws to fit a 50/96. My friend has told me about the HPI silver springs and will borrow some from him at the next race.
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