Advance R/C Car R10 2015
#91
here are results for the weekend. mikes car looked really good. 2 fresh cars on track last weekend. mine and grants (grant finished his at the track) grants car also looked very smooth on track.
#92
might try this. The nothchyness almost went completely away on the tamiya gear diff when I added 0.3mm on all four gears.
#93
Tech Elite
iTrader: (95)
Check out arc driver on Facebook for a tip I found out about the shorty shocks. The pistons are too large and don't allow enough flow (too much pack). The 15 piston now comes smaller as standard. The shorty pistons are around 11.05 mm. You need to sand them down by spinning the piston on the shaft in a Drexel to 10.95mm. From memory the 15 pistons are 10.90 mm
I could not believe the difference gained an easy 0.2 per lap on a 12 second laptime
I could not believe the difference gained an easy 0.2 per lap on a 12 second laptime
#94
I still had to add a 0.1mm shim on to the piston to remove some play.
Now for the o-rings, you guys stay with the stockers or use something else? I've a set of the Tamiya competition o-rings so I thought I'd test it out. These rings don't bulge up like the normal ones.
#95
Tech Elite
iTrader: (95)
I think I know what you are talking about. did the same thing on my 417 a while back
I still had to add a 0.1mm shim on to the piston to remove some play.
Now for the o-rings, you guys stay with the stockers or use something else? I've a set of the Tamiya competition o-rings so I thought I'd test it out. These rings don't bulge up like the normal ones.
I still had to add a 0.1mm shim on to the piston to remove some play.
Now for the o-rings, you guys stay with the stockers or use something else? I've a set of the Tamiya competition o-rings so I thought I'd test it out. These rings don't bulge up like the normal ones.
#96
I was looking at various pics of the car and noticed that very few racers use the sideways two tape method to keep the batt down. Is there a reason why it's not popular?
#98
so I put the 13 down ran a few laps, came in swapped shocks and shock towers, and could tell the diff right away, way better, a spring change, even better, and position change and camber link change, pretty darn close, then I went to work on the motor timing vs gearing. nailed it.
seriously thinking about vegas... even if just to watch
#103
Tech Champion
iTrader: (9)
Things i like to do when building a car:
Freeing up the spool - As per facebook
Sanding the gear diff plastics, where the bearing is seated.
Sanding the diff cams inside and out, so that the bearing fits smoothly in the carrier, and that the carrier (with bearing installed) sit in the bulkheads smoothly, this along with the top 2 points, makes a significant difference to the drive train.
Ensure that the bulkhead caps fit flush on the bulkheads (before sanding the diff cams they can rock around 0.2mm)
Ensure the bearing slide smoothly onto the driveshafts, spool outdrives and diff - if not a flat file and some time makes them perfect.
Check that the driveshaft blades are not tight, this will affect the action of the suspension, you can trim the inside of the blade, or the bulb on the end of the driveshaft.
When running a Trinity motor, i find it sits a little low in the flex bulkhead, and there is only a 0.5mm gap under the motor. I shim up the motor mount 1mm and place 1mm under the front and rear of the top deck also.
With the battery mounts, ensure the batt braces are not snug on the batter, then i use 3 layers of plain old electrical tape accross the sideways front tape slot, making a pad for the battery to sit on when taped in and i only use 1 piece of tap sideways (make sure you chamfer the tape slots, and i also put a large chamfer on the bottom of the chassis plate where the tape sits so that normal body roll does not slice the tape on the edge of the chassis.
Do all these things, and i can guarantee you that you will have a better handling car. It may not necessarily produce a faster lap time, but it will guarantee a faster race time.
#104
I've been running the ARC 2015 since its release and long before I got my hands on one, I'd been commenting on Sean Williams' car and how smooth it always looked. Fast forward to my first run with the car and instantly I thought it was the smoothest and quietest car I've driven. After driving the car more, I really began to enjoy the smoothness. The car literally drives like a Cadillac and turns laps like an F1.
I've also noticed that the car holds a solid line on power and at high speeds, which inspires confidence as it never feels on edge. Additionally, the shocks handle bumps very well, keep the car well composed and don't leak.
There is so much more I can say about the car, but I don't want to write a novel.
I am really pleased with the R10 2015 and can't wait to see the Black Edition when it arrives at our shop this Friday.
I've also noticed that the car holds a solid line on power and at high speeds, which inspires confidence as it never feels on edge. Additionally, the shocks handle bumps very well, keep the car well composed and don't leak.
There is so much more I can say about the car, but I don't want to write a novel.
I am really pleased with the R10 2015 and can't wait to see the Black Edition when it arrives at our shop this Friday.
#105
Tech Elite
iTrader: (95)
It probably doesn't make a ton of difference, but all the little tiny things add up to a superbly handling car.
Things i like to do when building a car:
Freeing up the spool - As per facebook
Sanding the gear diff plastics, where the bearing is seated.
Sanding the diff cams inside and out, so that the bearing fits smoothly in the carrier, and that the carrier (with bearing installed) sit in the bulkheads smoothly, this along with the top 2 points, makes a significant difference to the drive train.
Ensure that the bulkhead caps fit flush on the bulkheads (before sanding the diff cams they can rock around 0.2mm)
Ensure the bearing slide smoothly onto the driveshafts, spool outdrives and diff - if not a flat file and some time makes them perfect.
Check that the driveshaft blades are not tight, this will affect the action of the suspension, you can trim the inside of the blade, or the bulb on the end of the driveshaft.
When running a Trinity motor, i find it sits a little low in the flex bulkhead, and there is only a 0.5mm gap under the motor. I shim up the motor mount 1mm and place 1mm under the front and rear of the top deck also.
With the battery mounts, ensure the batt braces are not snug on the batter, then i use 3 layers of plain old electrical tape accross the sideways front tape slot, making a pad for the battery to sit on when taped in and i only use 1 piece of tap sideways (make sure you chamfer the tape slots, and i also put a large chamfer on the bottom of the chassis plate where the tape sits so that normal body roll does not slice the tape on the edge of the chassis.
Do all these things, and i can guarantee you that you will have a better handling car. It may not necessarily produce a faster lap time, but it will guarantee a faster race time.
Things i like to do when building a car:
Freeing up the spool - As per facebook
Sanding the gear diff plastics, where the bearing is seated.
Sanding the diff cams inside and out, so that the bearing fits smoothly in the carrier, and that the carrier (with bearing installed) sit in the bulkheads smoothly, this along with the top 2 points, makes a significant difference to the drive train.
Ensure that the bulkhead caps fit flush on the bulkheads (before sanding the diff cams they can rock around 0.2mm)
Ensure the bearing slide smoothly onto the driveshafts, spool outdrives and diff - if not a flat file and some time makes them perfect.
Check that the driveshaft blades are not tight, this will affect the action of the suspension, you can trim the inside of the blade, or the bulb on the end of the driveshaft.
When running a Trinity motor, i find it sits a little low in the flex bulkhead, and there is only a 0.5mm gap under the motor. I shim up the motor mount 1mm and place 1mm under the front and rear of the top deck also.
With the battery mounts, ensure the batt braces are not snug on the batter, then i use 3 layers of plain old electrical tape accross the sideways front tape slot, making a pad for the battery to sit on when taped in and i only use 1 piece of tap sideways (make sure you chamfer the tape slots, and i also put a large chamfer on the bottom of the chassis plate where the tape sits so that normal body roll does not slice the tape on the edge of the chassis.
Do all these things, and i can guarantee you that you will have a better handling car. It may not necessarily produce a faster lap time, but it will guarantee a faster race time.