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Old 08-18-2014, 10:47 PM   #226
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I got mine today.
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Old 08-18-2014, 10:57 PM   #227
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Does anyone have a template for Peugeot and Hot Bodies Toyota GT1 side dahms?
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Old 08-19-2014, 02:12 AM   #228
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my kit has been shipped!
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Old 08-19-2014, 05:03 AM   #229
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Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
Not a rant, but why?

If I can get a set to last 2 months after cutting them down, maybe. I'd rather run them to the point I'd cut them, then true them up and save them for a big race. I know others will cut them down, but until my driving can notice the .2 seconds per lap faster my car will go with cut tires its not worth it. I can get hundreds of laps of practice out of the carcass life I'd cut away. I know, less rolling resistance, less weight, but its club, not IIC, Indoor Champs, Snowbirds, regionals or nationals. Besides, my car is faster than Stan's. (NOT)
I agree. My goal is usually to maximize the fun-to-dollar ratio. Cutting good tires doesn't fit in to that. Run 'em down!
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Old 08-19-2014, 05:40 AM   #230
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Taller tires create roll and do not allow the cars suspension to do its job. They also are unpredictable and build up way too much traction.

Honestly if you didn't go faster by more then .2 per lap on the right size tires I would be shocked. In WGT we are cutting them WAY down and I personally have tried them larger, the cars just don't work as well and that is reflected in the lap times. Have you ever seen someone run big tires and go fast? The answer is no because small tires are always going to be faster.
Kevin,

You are undeniably correct - cutting the tires down to a more performace diameter would make for faster lap times. I cannot imagine how well this car would handle slammed down to where it was designed to be - optimally. Your technical argument is faultless.

For the time being, I want to see more folks enjoy pancar racing again, right now on-road is hurting in my opinion. What options do we give new drivers? A 4WD sedan? A pancar that you buy foam tires for and then intentionally grind the money off of them just so you can use them? Drivers are afraid of pancars, Afraid of the whole ritualistic idea of preping tires and chassis. You and I see this as part of the fun, the challenge. That level of the game requires a huge amount of desire and equal amounts of investment.

Dude...we gotta get new blood hooked - they aren't beating down our doors. How many tracks in the MidWest enjoy regular/strong pancar classes? There are a few, should be more, way more.

"These are the tires you need, then find someone with a truer and spin them down to where you can hardly see the foam you paid for."

"Whut?"

You didn't hook him Kevin. Let's get folks racing, get a car in their hands, then it'll come - at some point you want to get all there is out of the car. You don't HAVE to do that for racing at the club level. Is it faster? You bet it is...
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Old 08-19-2014, 09:05 AM   #231
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Does anyone have a template for Peugeot and Hot Bodies Toyota GT1 side dahms?
Sorry, no. I didn't bother to make any for mine and it is working really well. Congrats on your kit arriving!
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Old 08-19-2014, 11:50 AM   #232
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Does anyone have a template for Peugeot and Hot Bodies Toyota GT1 side dahms?
I was looking about 4 months ago and couldn't find a template for the Peugeot (P905B) anywhere. Try to make you own, experimenting is fun anyway, which I'm sure you know since your a veteran racer. +1 on the Peugeot working well with out the side dams however. Good luck!
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Old 08-19-2014, 11:53 AM   #233
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That's what I'll do. Has anyone tried to contact ProtoForm and ask if they have the side dahms?
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"Pro 10, the only way to fly around the track!"
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Old 08-19-2014, 12:42 PM   #234
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That's what I'll do. Has anyone tried to contact ProtoForm and ask if they have the side dahms?

I have a pair, I can trace on paper scan and send you. Might take a while though!!!!
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Old 08-19-2014, 01:45 PM   #235
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I have a pair, I can trace on paper scan and send you. Might take a while though!!!!
Great thanks!
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Pro 10 / 10th scale pan GTP: Speed Merchant Road Kill 10 (one of the first 10 produced)
12th Scale: Speed Merchant Rev 8 PRO x2 and Yokomo YRX12

"Pro 10, the only way to fly around the track!"
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Old 08-20-2014, 05:53 AM   #236
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Default quick shots

Wiring and electronics layout pretty sloppy at this point as I am still undecided about battery options - there are so many with this chassis. Running a 4000maH shorty right now with an insane amount of runtime. So much I want ot test yet. I'll post a pdf, should anyone be interested in where I'm at with setup.

We have box art!
http://www.teamspeedmerchant.com/Roa...over1200W.html
Attached Thumbnails
Speedmerchant Roadkill 10 235mm Pro10 Pancar-rk10_00-1024x1024.jpg   Speedmerchant Roadkill 10 235mm Pro10 Pancar-rk10_01-1024x1024.jpg   Speedmerchant Roadkill 10 235mm Pro10 Pancar-rk10_02-1024x1024.jpg   Speedmerchant Roadkill 10 235mm Pro10 Pancar-rk10_03-1024x1024.jpg  
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Old 08-20-2014, 06:50 AM   #237
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Thumbs up Movie Star

Celt's car handles. Testing his electronics layout and battery or not, this car is just nailed.

Enjoy!

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 08-20-2014, 12:31 PM   #238
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Shock issue resolved.

The HB/Prime shock body and lower cap fit the Silva upper cap thread pattern and are the same depth. The rod and piston are the same size. I put the guts of the shock into the Prime shock body. I used the Silva o-ring in the lower shock seal, bladder, piston and shaft. Now I have aluminum upper and lower caps. The shock is the right length using the shock cap with the threaded end on it and the lower cap with the threaded end along with the original long ball cups. Looks OEM. Doesn't leak
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Old 08-20-2014, 03:04 PM   #239
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What happened to the stock shock?

Thoese cars are sweet. How did you like your car with a 10.5 vs 13.5?

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Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
Shock issue resolved.

The HB/Prime shock body and lower cap fit the Silva upper cap thread pattern and are the same depth. The rod and piston are the same size. I put the guts of the shock into the Prime shock body. I used the Silva o-ring in the lower shock seal, bladder, piston and shaft. Now I have aluminum upper and lower caps. The shock is the right length using the shock cap with the threaded end on it and the lower cap with the threaded end along with the original long ball cups. Looks OEM. Doesn't leak
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Old 08-20-2014, 04:30 PM   #240
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What happened to the stock shock?

Thoese cars are sweet. How did you like your car with a 10.5 vs 13.5?
The shock was a build accident. I was holding the lower cap when tightening the upper cap and the lower jumped a thread. Mudslide has the caps, so I need to get a couple just in case. The Prime shock has aluminum caps on both ends, but requires the Silva cap with the threaded end to be long enough.

I noticed no real difference between the 13.5 and 10.5. But, the Tekin still needs a trip to the PC.
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