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Old 08-29-2005, 03:16 AM   #16
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he are the pictures of the soldering iron.
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Old 08-29-2005, 03:20 AM   #17
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and by the way what is (soldering flux)
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Old 08-29-2005, 09:35 AM   #18
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Old 08-30-2005, 02:09 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by cr250
Here is a link for good hints on soldering battery packs. Their work is second to none.
I think that them saying not to tin the cells or bars is bs... The purpose of soldering is to have solder all around the parts you want to connect together. You don't need to tin the bars, just the cells and then add a little solder on the bar when you solder it on the cell so that it flows all over.
Also grinding is useless with good solder and good soldering iron.

Just buy good solder with silver and a good flux in it (Multicore).
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Old 08-30-2005, 02:50 PM   #20
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Correct... if there is no solder between the bar and the cell then you are not SOLDERING the bar to the cell. The trick is to have as little solder between the bar and cell as possible. The more solder between the bar and cell the higher resistance that connection will have.

The other thing to remember is if you get the cell TOO hot you will damage it to some extent. You want an iron with a large chisel tip. The large tip will hold a lot of heat "thermal capacity" as mentioned before. When you use such a tip it will transfer heat to the bar and cell quickly allowing for a good solder joint without having to keep the tip on the cell a LONG time which actually transfers even more total heat to the cell because it is transferring so slowly that the heat leaches away into the cell before the solder can melt properly and form a good joint.

I've used and 80watt Weller for the last 10 years... same iron for 10 years (with new tips of coarse). It works great for building packs. The solder melts quickly allowing me to press the bar firmly against the cell to squeeze out the extra solder. Then I lift the iron and the solder cools almost instantly because I didn't heat the entire cell up to the point it could be damaged.

I usually prep the cells by sanding each end a bit to ruff up the slick metal contact surface a bit. I then wipe each contact area with a cloth with alcohol on it. That gets rid of any oils that may have come from the mfg process, or from being handled during matching, or from my own fingers. I then tin each cell. I let them cool completely before assembling the pack in a jig. While they are cooling I tin the bottoms of each bar. Then it's into the Deans Jig (in the proper +/- order), line up the labels because I'm anal, and solder on the bars. I solder on both sides of each bar at the same time (in quick succession) so that I can get each bar level and perfectly flat onto the cell and not have bars sticking up out of the solder at an angle. I use the tip of some needle nose pliers to put pressure on the bar as I solder to force it down flat onto the cell as the solder melts. When I get done I go back and look at each joint to make sure it looks like each bar is making contact with the cell itself and doesn't look like their is solder holding the bar away from the cell. Once the pack is cooled off I'll go back and touch up any questionable joints. If I screw up a connection during this process I'll wait for the cell to cool before trying again. No reason to heat up the cell even more and possibly damage it.
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