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Old 05-27-2015, 03:48 PM   #1276
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Originally Posted by daleburr View Post
I don't have the Radtec ones, so can't say for sure. Clearly the same company, but maybe they've changed suppliers.

My Roche ones had a fair amount of axle play at first, but this was due to the narrow 3mm inner bearing having lots of play. Using a higher quality bearing and some spacers ('crush tubes') to lock the inner and outer bearing centres together solved the issue.

Another option are the genuine Xray ones. They've got a new design now which should solve the previous reliability issues. Cost quite a bit more than the Radtec ones though.
Thanks Dale, the radtec DCJ use a different bearing to the roche perhaps this is where the extra play comes from.
Which higher quality bearing did you use?

Re crush tubes did you use a shims or an actual tube of the right length?
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Old 05-28-2015, 01:18 AM   #1277
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Originally Posted by DamianW View Post
Thanks Dale, the radtec DCJ use a different bearing to the roche perhaps this is where the extra play comes from.
Which higher quality bearing did you use?

Re crush tubes did you use a shims or an actual tube of the right length?
You need 1.65mm spacing between the bearings, and a 0.2mm shim between the pin and outer bearing so that the hex clamps the whole thing into one solid assembly (while still allowing the bearings to rotate of course!).

I use these plus a 0.2mm shim between the bearings, its the closest I could find:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXYGF9

The bearings were just some random ones off ebay, but had less play than the ones that came with the shafts.
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Old 05-28-2015, 02:25 AM   #1278
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Hi Guys,

I have just had my first laps with my new '15...

I am looking for a bit more steering, especially in high speed corners, and I would like the car to be a tiny bit more "responsive" in the slower ones.

My setup is the basic carpet setup, and im running graphite arms. I have the optional blocks both front and rear, but I have not mounted those yet.

Running 17.5 on high bite carpet.
Hi Chris,

If you are running the shocks in the basic position (2 front, 3 rear), I would reverse that. Going to hole 2 in the rear will allow the car to roll more which generally makes less side bite and more steering in high bite conditions. To make the car more responsive in slower corners, try position 3 on the front shocks.

You may also try adding 1-2mm of shim to the bump steer to end up at 2 to 3mm there. That should make the car wrap the corner a little better, which I feel will be really noticeable if you have a tight corner coming off the sweeper.

If the car becomes too 'stuck' feeling, I would remove 1mm of shim from the outside front camber link, and add 1mm of shim to the inside rear camber link to start.
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Old 05-28-2015, 02:58 AM   #1279
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Originally Posted by daleburr View Post
You need 1.65mm spacing between the bearings, and a 0.2mm shim between the pin and outer bearing so that the hex clamps the whole thing into one solid assembly (while still allowing the bearings to rotate of course!).

I use these plus a 0.2mm shim between the bearings, its the closest I could find:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXYGF9

The bearings were just some random ones off ebay, but had less play than the ones that came with the shafts.
Thank you.
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Old 05-28-2015, 05:48 AM   #1280
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I can't wait until carpet season to run my 15' more... :-(
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Old 05-28-2015, 06:25 AM   #1281
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Originally Posted by R Dodge View Post
Hi Chris,

If you are running the shocks in the basic position (2 front, 3 rear), I would reverse that. Going to hole 2 in the rear will allow the car to roll more which generally makes less side bite and more steering in high bite conditions. To make the car more responsive in slower corners, try position 3 on the front shocks.

You may also try adding 1-2mm of shim to the bump steer to end up at 2 to 3mm there. That should make the car wrap the corner a little better, which I feel will be really noticeable if you have a tight corner coming off the sweeper.

If the car becomes too 'stuck' feeling, I would remove 1mm of shim from the outside front camber link, and add 1mm of shim to the inside rear camber link to start.
Thank you very much!

I will test it on sunday, hopefully with good results
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Old 05-29-2015, 06:53 AM   #1282
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i have a NIP Avid aluminum chassis for the 2015 T4, if anyone is interested.. not sure if i will be running indoor this year or not.. so.. inbox me..
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Old 05-30-2015, 06:06 PM   #1283
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Which Servo do you recommend using? I'm currently looking at the Futaba BLS 451/471. Any opinions/advice?
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Old 05-30-2015, 06:35 PM   #1284
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I am using the KO one10
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Old 05-31-2015, 12:21 AM   #1285
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anyone running the spec r motor mount with success yet?
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Old 05-31-2015, 12:52 AM   #1286
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Anyone know why my xray Front Left's ride height is lower than front right.
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Old 05-31-2015, 08:14 AM   #1287
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Originally Posted by KrisLo View Post
Anyone know why my xray Front Left's ride height is lower than front right.
Are the shocks different lengths?
Are the droop screws at different offsets?
Did any of the shims under the chassis suspension mounts not get under one side?
Are the tires the same size?
is the left to right weight balance centered on the car? (did you put the battery in when you checked the ride height?

just a couple of things to check.
How much different are they?

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Old 06-02-2015, 05:24 PM   #1288
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Default new progressive shock inserts

Wow just saw the new progressive shock inserts form Xray on redrc.net yesterday, very cool!
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Old 06-02-2015, 05:32 PM   #1289
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thinking of going from awesomatix A700 EVOII to a xray T4 15' I mostly run asphalt and make IIC for carpet every year. What are the extras that need to be purchased for a new kit?
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Old 06-02-2015, 06:18 PM   #1290
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KrisLo View Post
Anyone know why my xray Front Left's ride height is lower than front right.
Also, loosen and reset your shock towers on the diff clamps.
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