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Old 05-18-2015, 08:28 AM   #1231
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Well, the Tamiya has these small alu balls that slide onto the end of the pins and the pin can move (rotate) freely in the "ball". What Gilles demonstrates is only applicable to that and have no direct relevance for an Xray which does not use these alu end balls.

I've had Tamiya before Xray and have watched all of Gilles very good demonstration videos, but some of the info is only applicable for Tamiya TRF cars and are not universal.

Please correct me if I'm missing something
In my experience, if the pin doesn't spin freely in an unmounted arm, use a reamer. Otherwise the technique in the video and as I describe has helped me for the past 5 years worth of xray touring cars. It doesn't take much misalignment of those blocks to bind things up.

One other thing I do is always use aluminum shims on the hinge pins instead of composite, they are much more consistent in size.
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Old 05-18-2015, 08:50 AM   #1232
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Another tip, since we're talking about reaming arms, is to re-check and make sure the hinge pin moves free after inserting the droop screw, and also after screwing on the graphite plates if you use those. I put plates on some arms I was using without checking and found them both to be completely bound up afterwards.
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Old 05-18-2015, 10:26 PM   #1233
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Salkin View Post
Well, the Tamiya has these small alu balls that slide onto the end of the pins and the pin can move (rotate) freely in the "ball". What Gilles demonstrates is only applicable to that and have no direct relevance for an Xray which does not use these alu end balls.

I've had Tamiya before Xray and have watched all of Gilles very good demonstration videos, but some of the info is only applicable for Tamiya TRF cars and are not universal.

Please correct me if I'm missing something
The idea behind that technique is to settle the mounting blocks so they don't bind up the arms. As Erchn says, it doesn't take much of a mis-alignment to bind things up.
I will agree the Xray system is different in that the arm does need to rotate on the pin, instead of the tamiya system of it rotating in the pivot ball, but both systems can bind up if the spacing between the arms is too tight. The light tap on the arm technique helps to solve that, without resorting to sanding arms to different lengths etc.
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Old 05-18-2015, 11:46 PM   #1234
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I think the light tap Gilles is using works for the Tamiya setup to settle the balls in the suspension blocks. I have found on occasion the balls have tiny bits of swarf from manufacturing so I usually stick them in a chuck on my lathe and polish away any swarf residue. Bad cases have had .5mm wide swarf on the round end of the ball but even less than that is enough to bind the arms. Run your finger over the ball ends and you'll feel if anything is wrong. I guess Tamiya might have changed suppliers or their QC is not as anal as it used to be.
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Old 05-20-2015, 03:16 PM   #1235
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The hinge pin is not supposed to be free inside the insert. The arm has to be reamed so that it spins around the hinge pin. Use a 3mm arm reamer to fix this.
I reamed the arms like you said (had to order the reamer) and they move free up until the point when I tighten down the suspension blocks. I have tried tightening in different order to no avail. Any suggestions?
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Old 05-20-2015, 03:27 PM   #1236
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I reamed the arms like you said (had to order the reamer) and they move free up until the point when I tighten down the suspension blocks. I have tried tightening in different order to no avail. Any suggestions?
This may seem silly, but after you tighten up the blocks, try tapping the front edge and back edge of the arms a few times with the handle of a driver or a small hammer, close to the hingepin. Not too hard though. This will usually free them up enough. The eccentric inserts might not be quite pushed into the blocks all the way or could be slightly warped on the face.
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Old 05-20-2015, 05:03 PM   #1237
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This may seem silly, but after you tighten up the blocks, try tapping the front edge and back edge of the arms a few times with the handle of a driver or a small hammer, close to the hingepin. Not too hard though. This will usually free them up enough. The eccentric inserts might not be quite pushed into the blocks all the way or could be slightly warped on the face.
That did the trick! Thanks a lot. Now on to my next problem. Is the spur gear supposed to sit centered in the top deck as you look down at it? Mine sits to the right almost touching the top deck.( I have a 96 tooth off set spur) I double checked the manual and I have the spur gear/pully assembly assembled and installed correctly. I am having a hard time aligning my pinion to where it is centered on the spur and being able to get to the set screw to tighten it. No matter which way I put the pinion gear on it is either to close the the motor to get to the screw or too far away.
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Old 05-20-2015, 05:50 PM   #1238
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That did the trick! Thanks a lot. Now on to my next problem. Is the spur gear supposed to sit centered in the top deck as you look down at it? Mine sits to the right almost touching the top deck.( I have a 96 tooth off set spur) I double checked the manual and I have the spur gear/pully assembly assembled and installed correctly. I am having a hard time aligning my pinion to where it is centered on the spur and being able to get to the set screw to tighten it. No matter which way I put the pinion gear on it is either to close the the motor to get to the screw or too far away.
Do you have a photo?
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Old 05-20-2015, 06:45 PM   #1239
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For 64p gears, I usually use the thin machined spurs from CoreRC, Titan or ARC. Leespeed are another good choice. I think the offset xray spurs were originally made for an older car that required it to be offset?? Not sure on that. I bought my first xray in 2011 and offset spurs have never been a great option for any of the cars I've owned. They will work, but will always be extremely close to one side of the top deck. Not ideal. The 48P spur that ships with the kit isn't offset. Odd they don't make any lower tooth count 64P gears that are centered. Just go for one of the brands I mentioned above.
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Old 05-20-2015, 07:12 PM   #1240
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Oh and I always put the pinion on with the collar on the battery side. Can get to the set screw from the bottom beside the spur, at an angle. Need to push the belt out of the way a bit. None of my motors have a long enough flat spot on the rotor to put the collar on the motor side. Some pinions you will find have a collar that sticks out too far. Most are fine, but there are a few that wont fit, PRS comes to mind.
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Old 05-21-2015, 01:30 PM   #1241
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i am using the same spur.. and its centered.. you need to flip it.. take it apart.. and flip it over..

page 8 of the manual shows a cut away orientation.. for offset spurs.. notice.. the shallow side is the side the screws go in. or.. on the side of the short belt. the deeper side in on the side for the longer belt..
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Old 05-21-2015, 01:46 PM   #1242
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i am using the same spur.. and its centered.. you need to flip it.. take it apart.. and flip it over..

page 8 of the manual shows a cut away orientation.. for offset spurs.. notice.. the shallow side is the side the screws go in. or.. on the side of the short belt. the deeper side in on the side for the longer belt..
Centered spurs are centered, like the one that comes in the kit. Offset spurs are offset to one side or the other. The screw side is the same thickness as the other side.

Take some pictures. I just find it very hard to believe that you have an offset spur centered.
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Old 05-21-2015, 02:07 PM   #1243
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i will get a picture.. it may not be exactly centered.. but.. i know when i changed the gear over.. i had to take it apart 2 times to get it right..

i do agree with you.. i have to flip the pinion.. becuase the gear wont tighten down on a flat spot.. and the hole in the bottom doesnt exactly line up..
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Old 05-22-2015, 07:51 AM   #1244
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The ball studs that are on top of my steering knuckles keep stripping out the hole in the knuckle. Is this a common problem? I went through 2 sets already.
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Old 05-22-2015, 08:11 AM   #1245
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The ball studs that are on top of my steering knuckles keep stripping out the hole in the knuckle. Is this a common problem? I went through 2 sets already.
Are they 10mm ballstuds? Make sure you haven't used the 8mm ones instead (these are for the rear). I think the early instruction manuals had it the wrong way round.

The one other person I saw having this issue had got 8mms on the front. With 10mm, they rarely strip.
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