R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Like Tree1Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 05-17-2015, 02:05 PM   #1216
Tech Elite
 
artwork's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Thornton, CO
Posts: 3,106
Trader Rating: 62 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by kobiwan View Post
I'm currently building a T4 '15 and just completed putting on the rear a-arms and they don't move freely. I have diagnosed that it is the inserts. when i put the hinge pin the the insert they don't rotate freely inside. Anyone have a fix for this? Thanks
The hinge pin is not supposed to be free inside the insert. The arm has to be reamed so that it spins around the hinge pin. Use a 3mm arm reamer to fix this.
__________________
Sanwa | R1 Wurks | Avid | 2mm Designs
artwork is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2015, 03:33 PM   #1217
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Netherlands
Posts: 343
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by kobiwan View Post
I'm currently building a T4 '15 and just completed putting on the rear a-arms and they don't move freely. I have diagnosed that it is the inserts. when i put the hinge pin the the insert they don't rotate freely inside. Anyone have a fix for this? Thanks
Use a reamer the susp. arms are supposed to turn over the hinge pin.
Do this with all arms and check the smoothness while rotating over the hing pins.
eded1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2015, 03:41 PM   #1218
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 465
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by artwork View Post
The hinge pin is not supposed to be free inside the insert. The arm has to be reamed so that it spins around the hinge pin. Use a 3mm arm reamer to fix this.
Thanks
__________________
Futaba 7PX---Xray T4 '18 ---R1 Wurks---EAMotorsports---Hobbywing
kobiwan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2015, 03:42 PM   #1219
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 465
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Also, Should I get the aluminum Steering bellcranks, or are the plastic ones okay to use?
__________________
Futaba 7PX---Xray T4 '18 ---R1 Wurks---EAMotorsports---Hobbywing
kobiwan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2015, 07:47 PM   #1220
Tech Elite
 
andrewdoherty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ★Wylie, TX★
Posts: 3,776
Trader Rating: 47 (100%+)
Default

I prefer the extra throw the aluminum arms afford, but they are prone to allowing the two ball studs loose. To get the extra throw and not lose the ball studs I know use the plastic arms and use the RSD narrow center shim which gives approximately the same mount of throw.
__________________
"Whether you think you can, or think you can't, you're right." -Henry Ford
"[Driving] Genius is 1% inspiration, and 99% perspiration" -T.A. Edison
|◤Hobbywing◢|◤SpeedzoneUSA.com◢|◤Pro-One◢|
|◤ReflexRacing.net◢|◤Protoform◢|◤AVID R/C◢|
andrewdoherty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2015, 08:01 PM   #1221
Tech Fanatic
 
erchn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Union City, CA
Posts: 825
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by kobiwan View Post
Thanks
You really shouldn't need to use a reamer on the arms, if the pin spins freely in an u mounted arm. Mount it all up as square as you can and give the arm a good whack or two with a nut driver. It'll align the blocks and things should move freely.
__________________
Serpent ; Desoto Racing ; Team Powers USA ; Reflex Racing ; Bezerk RC
erchn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2015, 12:21 AM   #1222
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 285
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

I'm new to belt driven TC and am sorry if this is trivial.

Do the Xray T4 '13/14/15 come with spools in the front and rear? If not could someone let me know whether there are optional parts to convert the front and rear to spools.
cbs007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2015, 12:55 AM   #1223
Tech Fanatic
 
Salkin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 882
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by erchn View Post
You really shouldn't need to use a reamer on the arms, if the pin spins freely in an u mounted arm. Mount it all up as square as you can and give the arm a good whack or two with a nut driver. It'll align the blocks and things should move freely.
The manual directly specifies to use a reamer.

The arm must move freely on the pin (as does the uprights/c-hubs), it is NOT the pin that should move freely in the plastic hinge pin holders.

I would definitely NOT give anything a whack or two with a screwdriver to get it to operate smoothly.
__________________
Yokomo BD7 2016 Black Series - MuchMore Fleta Pro / MuchMore ZX - Highest DLP650 - Sanwa M12
Salkin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2015, 01:57 AM   #1224
Tech Champion
 
TryHard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Sydney, NSW
Posts: 5,273
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Salkin View Post
The manual directly specifies to use a reamer.

The arm must move freely on the pin (as does the uprights/c-hubs), it is NOT the pin that should move freely in the plastic hinge pin holders.

I would definitely NOT give anything a whack or two with a screwdriver to get it to operate smoothly.
Might want to watch this video to see what Erchn means....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zAPI...4179DA&index=3

go to 6:00min.
__________________
| THard.co.uk | Xray | MuchMore |
TryHard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2015, 02:52 AM   #1225
Tech Elite
 
Skiddins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Windsor, UK
Posts: 4,745
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by cbs007 View Post
I'm new to belt driven TC and am sorry if this is trivial.

Do the Xray T4 '13/14/15 come with spools in the front and rear? If not could someone let me know whether there are optional parts to convert the front and rear to spools.
The last few generations of Xray kits come with a spool in the front and a gear diff in the rear.

They are the same fitment though, so if you download the exploded diagram of the car you want, from Xray, it will tell you the part number of any parts you might want.

http://www.teamxray.com/t4/
__________________
Xray T4'18, T4'14 (Wet Car)
Xray X12 2018
Xray X1'16
wlrc.co.uk (West London Racing Centre)
RCDisco.co.uk
Skiddins is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2015, 03:22 AM   #1226
Tech Elite
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: VA Beach
Posts: 3,468
Trader Rating: 55 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
Might want to watch this video to see what Erchn means....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zAPI...4179DA&index=3

go to 6:00min.
I was thinking I saw this also. Hammer might be too much lol. But a little tap to get it to settle seams harmless.
Jamison R is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2015, 05:53 AM   #1227
Tech Fanatic
 
Salkin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 882
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
Might want to watch this video to see what Erchn means....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zAPI...4179DA&index=3

go to 6:00min.
Well, the Tamiya has these small alu balls that slide onto the end of the pins and the pin can move (rotate) freely in the "ball". What Gilles demonstrates is only applicable to that and have no direct relevance for an Xray which does not use these alu end balls.

I've had Tamiya before Xray and have watched all of Gilles very good demonstration videos, but some of the info is only applicable for Tamiya TRF cars and are not universal.

Please correct me if I'm missing something
__________________
Yokomo BD7 2016 Black Series - MuchMore Fleta Pro / MuchMore ZX - Highest DLP650 - Sanwa M12
Salkin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2015, 06:00 AM   #1228
Tech Fanatic
 
Salkin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 882
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by artwork View Post
The hinge pin is not supposed to be free inside the insert. The arm has to be reamed so that it spins around the hinge pin. Use a 3mm arm reamer to fix this.
+1

....like the manual instructs.
__________________
Yokomo BD7 2016 Black Series - MuchMore Fleta Pro / MuchMore ZX - Highest DLP650 - Sanwa M12
Salkin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2015, 06:46 AM   #1229
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 465
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

I am trying to re-order some Xray shock oil. 350, 400, and 450 CST. I usually order from Stormer, Amain, Superior, or TQrcracing. Nobody has it. As in they don't carry it, its not that it's out of stock. Stormer has a few bottles left but not the thickness I need. Anyone know where I can get some?
__________________
Futaba 7PX---Xray T4 '18 ---R1 Wurks---EAMotorsports---Hobbywing
kobiwan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2015, 08:23 AM   #1230
Tech Fanatic
 
erchn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Union City, CA
Posts: 825
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by kobiwan View Post
I am trying to re-order some Xray shock oil. 350, 400, and 450 CST. I usually order from Stormer, Amain, Superior, or TQrcracing. Nobody has it. As in they don't carry it, its not that it's out of stock. Stormer has a few bottles left but not the thickness I need. Anyone know where I can get some?
I'm pretty sure xray oil is being discontinued. The Hudy oil is the same high quality stuff, and cheaper if I remember correctly.
__________________
Serpent ; Desoto Racing ; Team Powers USA ; Reflex Racing ; Bezerk RC
erchn is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 01:05 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net