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Old 01-15-2015, 12:11 AM   #901
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Many times drivers use anti-dive on front arms. How or where do they measure down-stop in this situation?
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Old 01-15-2015, 12:55 AM   #902
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Many times drivers use anti-dive on front arms. How or where do they measure down-stop in this situation?
This is one of the reasons I always measure it at the wheel axle.
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Old 01-15-2015, 01:04 AM   #903
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My son drives modified with a T4'15. He is OK, but does not drive flawlessly like the "pros".

We like to try the alu chassis, as many seems to try them.

At the recent DHI Cup, most of the top drivers either tested the alu chassis or used one.

My question: how much beating can such an alu chassis take before it bends and becomes useless?

Or is alu chassis just the latest "new thing", forgotten tomorrow?
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Old 01-15-2015, 02:18 AM   #904
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Originally Posted by Boostinswifty38 View Post
Anyone else running roche racing driveshafts? For the second race now, while leading tonight, it was lost because a small tap, not enough to do damage or even dirty the body, and the nut and axle and snapped off, sending the wheel flying and ending my race prematurely. What's with the crap material used in these?! And where can I get Spare parts for the Roche axles?
I ran mine for 12 months and they still look like new, so they've just gone into my new '15 build. Had some big crashes and no damage.

Maybe they've changed the materials. How long have you had them? Are they the latest ones with the holes drilled in the cage?
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Old 01-15-2015, 03:35 AM   #905
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Originally Posted by niznai View Post
This is one of the reasons I always measure it at the wheel axle.
If you take the standard setting F6/R5 how much would that be under the wheel axle?
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Old 01-15-2015, 07:01 AM   #906
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I'm unsure what ya mean holes drilled in the cage? For the round clips to hold the pin in?

These axles are not even 4 months old.
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Old 01-15-2015, 10:14 AM   #907
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Originally Posted by Salkin View Post
My son drives modified with a T4'15. He is OK, but does not drive flawlessly like the "pros".

We like to try the alu chassis, as many seems to try them.

At the recent DHI Cup, most of the top drivers either tested the alu chassis or used one.

My question: how much beating can such an alu chassis take before it bends and becomes useless?

Or is alu chassis just the latest "new thing", forgotten tomorrow?
I cant speak for the Xray aluminum chassis, as I've been using the Team Tamale chassis on my T4'15. They are much more durable than you would think. I was concerned about it as well. Not so much anymore.
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Old 01-15-2015, 10:20 AM   #908
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Originally Posted by Boostinswifty38 View Post
Anyone else running roche racing driveshafts? For the second race now, while leading tonight, it was lost because a small tap, not enough to do damage or even dirty the body, and the nut and axle and snapped off, sending the wheel flying and ending my race prematurely. What's with the crap material used in these?! And where can I get Spare parts for the Roche axles?
Been using them with no issues at all. Every crash is different. Not damaging the body means absolutely nothing. All it takes is for an axle to get caught on the barrier in some way and its done.

Could easily have been another much harder crash that broke it, and it was just holding together. The little tap finished it off. I've had this happen a lot in off-road. Downside a jump perfectly, and an arm breaks. Wasn't the landing that broke it, it was something earlier. It just happened to give up at that moment.
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Old 01-15-2015, 10:56 AM   #909
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Originally Posted by Odin544 View Post
I cant speak for the Xray aluminum chassis, as I've been using the Team Tamale chassis on my T4'15. They are much more durable than you would think. I was concerned about it as well. Not so much anymore.
Thanks, I'm now a little closer at getting one
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Old 01-15-2015, 04:10 PM   #910
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geberit View Post
If you take the standard setting F6/R5 how much would that be under the wheel axle?
That's the trouble you land in when trying to copy setups. I am using a square to measure and that is my reference, I don't use a downstop gauge. You'll need to work out your own reference.
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Old 01-15-2015, 04:26 PM   #911
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double post
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Old 01-15-2015, 06:01 PM   #912
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I've been using Roche DCJ's for about 14 months and have only broken one axle shaft, specifically the ball end on the axle shaft. So far they have been fantastic. I haven't found a "Go to" store in the U.S. that stocks them so I had to order directly from Roche.
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Old 01-17-2015, 01:34 PM   #913
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Looks like Spec-R has a new motor mount/layshaft/ARS mount for the '15. Might be a nice option for lower grip or more even chassis flex.

http://www.spec-r.com/default/index....roducts_id=739
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Old 01-18-2015, 05:08 AM   #914
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[QUOTE=Kevin K;13788292]Looks like Spec-R has a new motor mount/layshaft/ARS mount for the '15. Might be a nice option for lower grip or more even chassis flex.

.
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Old 01-18-2015, 08:16 AM   #915
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pphaneuf View Post
The manual emphasizes in two separate diagrams that the narrow side of the offset spur gear should go on the side with the spacer, which should go on the side of the short belt (motor side). See this album, for the diagrams in question, and photos of how I've built it:

https://plus.google.com/photos/+Pier...37555285064881

But check out how freakishly close that comes to the top deck (and how much of the motor shaft):



I'm pretty sure I should relax, I'm just not sure if I should relax about a) how close this comes to the top deck, or b) following the manual closely.
I have the same problem using the xray offset spur. Using the standard spur, everything lines up perfectly.
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