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Old 01-13-2015, 08:46 AM   #886
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Originally Posted by daleburr View Post
Agreed, although they're all the same pitch and tooth profile, they're not all the same material and construction.

When we had people running the HB TCX those belts snapped and wore out really easily. As the other end of the scale are the Yokomo belts which I've never seen snap, but are quite stiff. Xray seem to use a grade somewhere in the middle; they're nice and free, but the standard rear belt can sometimes snap with boosted/mod motors.

If you're feeling rich you can get the Xray white belts, which are both free and very strong. I just use the BD7 rear belt instead, as its cheap and the extra stiffness doesn't really matter in 13.5 boosted.
Belt grade is a different issue. Even the same company will use different belt grades in different kits, so it's not a case of "Xray belts are different to Yokomo belts". As long as pitch and tooth profile is the same (and that's what I meant when I said all belts are the same), it's up to you to decide what grade you need/want/choose.
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Old 01-13-2015, 05:03 PM   #887
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Originally Posted by daleburr View Post
If you're feeling rich you can get the Xray white belts, which are both free and very strong. I just use the BD7 rear belt instead, as its cheap and the extra stiffness doesn't really matter in 13.5 boosted.
Are you softening the kit xray belts ie soaking them in WD40.

I tried the standard T4 Xray belts (used borrowed from a mate) in my BD7 last year and found the kit xray belts to be stiffer and have more resistance.
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Old 01-13-2015, 05:35 PM   #888
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Does anyone have any recommendations for orange wheel nuts? I found this, but not sure if this would work well. http://www.amain.com/hpi-aluminum-lo...ange-10/p30987
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Old 01-13-2015, 06:07 PM   #889
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Does anyone have any recommendations for orange wheel nuts? I found this, but not sure if this would work well. http://www.amain.com/hpi-aluminum-lo...ange-10/p30987
www.teameam.com I have some Hiro Seiko ones in stock.

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Old 01-13-2015, 06:37 PM   #890
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www.teameam.com I have some Hiro Seiko ones in stock.

EA
EA, do the serrated nuts stay on as well as the nylon ones?
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Old 01-13-2015, 09:05 PM   #891
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EA, do the serrated nuts stay on as well as the nylon ones?
Yes as long as you tighten them down. Ive never had one come off or come loose. The serrations dig in the wheel pretty good.

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Old 01-14-2015, 01:37 AM   #892
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Originally Posted by SpidarX View Post
Does anyone have any recommendations for orange wheel nuts? I found this, but not sure if this would work well. http://www.amain.com/hpi-aluminum-lo...ange-10/p30987
http://www.avidrc.com/product/5/acce...cessories.html

Best wheel nuts I've used to date.
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Old 01-14-2015, 02:58 AM   #893
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Are you softening the kit xray belts ie soaking them in WD40.

I tried the standard T4 Xray belts (used borrowed from a mate) in my BD7 last year and found the kit xray belts to be stiffer and have more resistance.
Nope. WD40 weakens the belts significantly, so is a no-no with any kind of power in the car.

The ones in my wet car got WD40 on them as I used to clean the car with it. The front belt first came off, then when I put it back on it snapped at the next meeting. I now use GT85 to clean/protect the wet car which is much better, it doesn't damage the belts or swell the plastics.
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Old 01-14-2015, 03:08 AM   #894
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Yes as long as you tighten them down. Ive never had one come off or come loose. The serrations dig in the wheel pretty good.

EA
After a lot of use, and quite possibly over tightening, I've had the sweep natural rims get worn in to the point where the fronts will come loose. That's with some hong kong brand (arena maybe?), not the hiro seiko.

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Old 01-14-2015, 03:35 AM   #895
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I don't like to use Alu wheel nuts as eventually they all seem to strip their thread.
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Old 01-14-2015, 07:15 AM   #896
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Regarding the wheel nuts, if you crank down on the Hiro Seiko wheel nuts on a new rim, it can be very difficult to get them loose the first time you go to take the wheel off. Every time after that they should be easier, but still takes a little effort. I've never had an issue with Hiro Seiko wheel nuts, they are very good.

I have some of the Avid Triad wheel nuts on the way that I'll likely use at Snowbirds. I've heard good things about them and I'm really looking forward to using them.

I would avoid the non-flanged nuts as posted in the link to the A-Main site. Non-flanged nuts will allow the wheel to flex more and potentially bend or break. That little bit of flange does a much better job of preventing that.
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Old 01-14-2015, 07:53 AM   #897
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Normally I don’t drive stock but 2min drive from my home a ''small'' indoor track opened and they drive 13.5Tstock. I'm looking for a gear ratio 4.0 and 4.5 with 64dp Panaracer gears. Would these combination fit the T4 (95/40=4.51) and (99/47=4.00)? Or are there some better options for 64dp gears?

Thanks!
Hi Geberit,

I don't personally have a lot of time in 13.5 to really give a good answer on how to gear, but I can tell you it will depend more on what motor you go with than anything. I think you are close on where to start for a small track, so I would start with the 95/40 initially for about 3 minutes or so, temp it and if the temp isn't bad finish out your run. Then go from there. Also, keep in mind that your timing will affect how hot the motor runs, as well as how it performs. Again, this will really depend on what motor you're going to run.
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Old 01-14-2015, 07:38 PM   #898
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Originally Posted by daleburr View Post
Nope. WD40 weakens the belts significantly, so is a no-no with any kind of power in the car.

The ones in my wet car got WD40 on them as I used to clean the car with it. The front belt first came off, then when I put it back on it snapped at the next meeting. I now use GT85 to clean/protect the wet car which is much better, it doesn't damage the belts or swell the plastics.

Thanks.
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Old 01-14-2015, 09:05 PM   #899
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Anyone else running roche racing driveshafts? For the second race now, while leading tonight, it was lost because a small tap, not enough to do damage or even dirty the body, and the nut and axle and snapped off, sending the wheel flying and ending my race prematurely. What's with the crap material used in these?! And where can I get Spare parts for the Roche axles?
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Old 01-14-2015, 09:22 PM   #900
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Anyone else running roche racing driveshafts? For the second race now, while leading tonight, it was lost because a small tap, not enough to do damage or even dirty the body, and the nut and axle and snapped off, sending the wheel flying and ending my race prematurely. What's with the crap material used in these?! And where can I get Spare parts for the Roche axles?
I ran them for 12 months in my bd7 and never broke or damaged one.

I couldn't fault them except for a higher wear rate than I would have like on the pin going into the spool outdrives.
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