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Old 01-08-2015, 04:06 AM   #871
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Originally Posted by DamianW View Post
Xray plastics are soft and flexible but tough.

Yok & TRF graphite parts are stiff and strong but more brittle.

Both have pros and cons, personally I think the yoko plastics are the best in the business.

I ran a BD7 14 last year and after building a T4 15 I agree somewhat with Paul.

The T4 15 screws and belts are IMO poor quality.
Plastics are bound to be softer, and yet stronger than graphite, that's kind of the point
Although you can get the Xray plastic in different hardness ratings.
Graphite is on option parts.

I have used Yokomo rear belts in the past on my T4's as they were cheaper, or available when I was desperate. I honestly couldn't tell any difference between the Yok or Xray belts except for the writing on them.

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Old 01-08-2015, 04:43 AM   #872
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I gotta stop reading this thread Having thought I had decided on the T4 over the BD7 a fellow racers mention a few locals were converting back to standard size shocks, this leading me here to see how many people might be doing so. Reading the quality control issues along with plastic ball shims and steering rack arms has almost put me back to the BD7. Thee only thing keeping me towards Xray is there durability as I'm a intermediate driver who enjoys racing Modified.

Hmmm buying a new brand hurts my head.
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Old 01-08-2015, 06:59 AM   #873
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I gotta stop reading this thread Having thought I had decided on the T4 over the BD7 a fellow racers mention a few locals were converting back to standard size shocks, this leading me here to see how many people might be doing so. Reading the quality control issues along with plastic ball shims and steering rack arms has almost put me back to the BD7. Thee only thing keeping me towards Xray is there durability as I'm a intermediate driver who enjoys racing Modified.

Hmmm buying a new brand hurts my head.
A few team drivers over here tried standard size shocks, then went back to kit.
Alu steering rack arms are a bling option and even most team drivers use the standard arms on carpet.
Never that keen on the plastic shims but I bought orange alloy versions years ago. Not all the shims are plastic anyway, the camber link shims are alloy, plastic is basically for the wheelbase.
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Old 01-08-2015, 02:30 PM   #874
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WMD - don't think too much about it, just buy one

You won't break your car at LH anyway
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Old 01-08-2015, 03:03 PM   #875
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Originally Posted by WildManDriving View Post
I gotta stop reading this thread Having thought I had decided on the T4 over the BD7 a fellow racers mention a few locals were converting back to standard size shocks, this leading me here to see how many people might be doing so. Reading the quality control issues along with plastic ball shims and steering rack arms has almost put me back to the BD7. Thee only thing keeping me towards Xray is there durability as I'm a intermediate driver who enjoys racing Modified.

Hmmm buying a new brand hurts my head.
You wont go wrong with ether both are great cars, both fast, both high quality.

You can add D07 and 419 in the mix too.
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Old 01-08-2015, 03:25 PM   #876
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I'm in the process of building my t4 '15, and my kit is missing one of the steel steering bushings, and also 2 of the set screws were not machined properly. They don't have threads cut correctly. I saw that other people were having some quality control issues with their kits, so I wanted to pass along my issues. I have contacted the distributor to see if they will send replacement parts. It's a little frustrating for a $500+ kit.
Just an update, I spoke with Xray (RC America), and they are sending me the defective and missing parts from my kit. So A+ for customer service.
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Old 01-11-2015, 07:36 PM   #877
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Ran the car for the first time on high grip asphalt.

Car was pretty good but I was loosing a lot of time in the tight hairpins.

Question re the steering arm from the servo saver/arm and the steering bridge.

When using the top hole on the servo saver as suggested in the manual the steering arm turnbuckle touches on the top deck.

I used the lower hole on the servo saver and the steering arm turnbuckle clears the top deck but doesn't allow for full lock.

I looked at another T4 15 and it was the same.

The steering bridge has the 6mm shim perhaps a 4mm shim would work with the top hole allow for full throw or is there another solution?

Last edited by DamianW; 01-11-2015 at 07:51 PM.
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Old 01-11-2015, 08:20 PM   #878
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DamianW View Post
Ran the car for the first time on high grip asphalt.

Car was pretty good but I was loosing a lot of time in the tight hairpins.

Question re the steering arm from the servo saver/arm and the steering bridge.

When using the top hole on the servo saver as suggested in the manual the steering arm turnbuckle touches on the top deck.

I used the lower hole on the servo saver and the steering arm turnbuckle clears the top deck but doesn't allow for full lock.

I looked at another T4 15 and it was the same.

The steering bridge has the 6mm shim perhaps a 4mm shim would work with the top hole allow for full throw or is there another solution?
Yea I use 4mm, maybe 5mm, but it helps with that problem.
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Old 01-11-2015, 10:37 PM   #879
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Thanks.
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Old 01-12-2015, 03:03 PM   #880
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Following up, I found a 4.5mm shim that fits and provides plenty of clearance.
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Old 01-12-2015, 03:59 PM   #881
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
Plastics are bound to be softer, and yet stronger than graphite, that's kind of the point
Although you can get the Xray plastic in different hardness ratings.
Graphite is on option parts.

I have used Yokomo rear belts in the past on my T4's as they were cheaper, or available when I was desperate. I honestly couldn't tell any difference between the Yok or Xray belts except for the writing on them.

Skiddins
All belts are the same, and made by Bando. This is from mix and match experience across Tamiya, Yokomo and Xray. Xray has belts in one tooth increments around all sizes used in today's cars from these manufacturers, hence a good resource to use when ordering if you're playing around with car's internal ratio.

Plastic shims are not a problem, especially on suspension hingepins and they save weight too.
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Old 01-12-2015, 05:07 PM   #882
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Originally Posted by niznai View Post
All belts are the same, and made by Bando. This is from mix and match experience across Tamiya, Yokomo and Xray. Xray has belts in one tooth increments around all sizes used in today's cars from these manufacturers, hence a good resource to use when ordering if you're playing around with car's internal ratio.

Plastic shims are not a problem, especially on suspension hingepins and they save weight too.
Sorry you are mistaken all belts are not the same.

Whilst most belts do appear to be manufactured by Bando they are manufactured differently.
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Old 01-12-2015, 08:17 PM   #883
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And what's the difference?
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Old 01-13-2015, 02:43 AM   #884
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Normally I donít drive stock but 2min drive from my home a ''small'' indoor track opened and they drive 13.5Tstock. I'm looking for a gear ratio 4.0 and 4.5 with 64dp Panaracer gears. Would these combination fit the T4 (95/40=4.51) and (99/47=4.00)? Or are there some better options for 64dp gears?

Thanks!
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Old 01-13-2015, 02:47 AM   #885
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DamianW View Post
Sorry you are mistaken all belts are not the same.

Whilst most belts do appear to be manufactured by Bando they are manufactured differently.
Agreed, although they're all the same pitch and tooth profile, they're not all the same material and construction.

When we had people running the HB TCX those belts snapped and wore out really easily. As the other end of the scale are the Yokomo belts which I've never seen snap, but are quite stiff. Xray seem to use a grade somewhere in the middle; they're nice and free, but the standard rear belt can sometimes snap with boosted/mod motors.

If you're feeling rich you can get the Xray white belts, which are both free and very strong. I just use the BD7 rear belt instead, as its cheap and the extra stiffness doesn't really matter in 13.5 boosted.
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