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Old 01-07-2015, 04:57 AM   #856
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Originally Posted by R Dodge View Post
Hi Ellis,

There isn't much that is required in addition to the car aside from ECS' and maybe some tuning parts. Some prefer the feel of 50mm (Part No. 305331) although they could potentially break the spool cups quicker than the 52mm ECS, so some go with 52mm (Part No. 305330) for a little more durability as far as the spool cups are concerned.

I would also suggest looking into the following tuning parts so you can adjust your setup for your track:

Part No. - Description
302803 - 1.3mm Front Anti-Roll bar
303802 - 1.2mm Rear Anti-Roll bar
303804 - 1.4mm Rear Anti-Roll bar
308274 - 2.3 Linear spring (pair of 2)
308276 - 2.7 Linear spring (pair of 2)
308286 - 2.6 Linear spring (pair of 2)

Xray has a bunch of other nice tuning parts available, but these are the basics that I think you'll want to start out with.
Maybe a set of the 2.5-2.8 progressive springs, as many uses them also.

Some oils, 350-550 region for shocks and 1000-5000 for diff.

1mm and 2mm alu spacers for setup changes instead of the stock plastic ones.

And maybe some extra outer wheel bearings (in the hubs), as these take some beating and needs to be replaced now and then to ensure a smooth driveline.
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Old 01-07-2015, 05:19 AM   #857
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Originally Posted by daleburr View Post
Just to balance the opinions, my T4'15 is the best TC I've built to date. No missing or incorrect parts, and everything drops together perfectly. Xray still have the best gear-diff and shocks; all super-smooth out of the box with no aftermarket parts. And unlike other brands the diff won't leak when you actually use it

I thought the ballraced rollbars were a bit overkill when I first saw them, but now I've built them I can see why Xray went this way. No more fiddling with grubscrews to get the correct play when you change a roll bar. And the mountings are so accurate there was no adjustment needed when I came to detweak the bars.

The new motor mount is also a big improvement. If you run the centre post it was always difficult on the '14 to build the car without tweak. On the '15 its easy and the car was tweak-free without any work.

Haven't tried the ARS yet so can't comment on that, but its another nice option to have.

Everybody understands QC is not an exact science, but if you want to be at the top, you have to earn it. When you charge top dollar for your stuff you have an obligation to be at the top. You no longer have another option. There is no balance to be achieved here. A good kit like yours is what everybody expects and deserves as long as they're paying the same price you paid. Luck should have no part of it.
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Old 01-07-2015, 05:23 AM   #858
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Hm, does it worth buying the following?

1) the graphite steering plate (302570)
2) alu dual servo saver arm (302525)
3) alu top deck mount (306516)
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Old 01-07-2015, 05:29 AM   #859
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Originally Posted by Takvor View Post
Hm, does it worth buying the following?

1) the graphite steering plate (302570)
2) alu dual servo saver arm (302525)
3) alu top deck mount (306516)

Hi Takvor,

I have run the steering plate only a handful of times. I think in high bite it gives a more responsive feel, but I don't think it is completely necessary.

The aluminum swing rack is a definite improvement. It allows a couple extra degrees of steering throw. I set mine to 29* on the inside tire, per Alex's guidance.

The aluminum topdeck mount is nice to have. I like running it to help the car rotate off the sweeper if grip is really high. It keeps the chassis from flexing back there and allows the car to carry more momentum in that instance. If grip is low I do not run it and steering is still good, though it is a slightly different feel because of the way the chassis flexes.

Hope this helps
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Old 01-07-2015, 05:30 AM   #860
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Originally Posted by niznai View Post
Everybody understands QC is not an exact science, but if you want to be at the top, you have to earn it. When you charge top dollar for your stuff you have an obligation to be at the top. You no longer have another option. There is no balance to be achieved here. A good kit like yours is what everybody expects and deserves as long as they're paying the same price you paid. Luck should have no part of it.
Yes, but the guy also mentioned he built the T4'14, not the '15!

I had a couple of minor issues with the '14, but like Dale, none with the '15, so perhaps any issues were sorted (which is also the sign of a top notch company).

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Old 01-07-2015, 05:48 AM   #861
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Takvor View Post
Hm, does it worth buying the following?

1) the graphite steering plate (302570)
2) alu dual servo saver arm (302525)
3) alu top deck mount (306516)
The top-deck post is worth having as an option if you race outdoors. For me it increases traction and stability (assuming you remove the layshaft screws when using it); last year I used it on 50% of the tracks I raced at (Bedworth, Stafford and Cotswolds for UK people).

DCJs are not essential, but if you do decide you want them I'd recommend the Roche ones. Mine have done a full season and still look like new, so they've gone into the '15 car to do a second season.
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Old 01-07-2015, 06:20 AM   #862
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
Yes, but the guy also mentioned he built the T4'14, not the '15!
Indeed, the guy (me ) was talking about a MY14. But I've also seen quite a few comments about MY15 QA issues too I think

But beyond this, the quality of the graphite (and the "wovening" direction), the anodizing, the machining of the 15 shouldn't be much different than the 14... Which means this can be compared together with whatever other car. Try a yokie - the attention to detail and the parts finish (not talking about the fact that my kit was complete) is just exquisite. Hence my comment that Mario, Juraj and Martin have work to do to reclaim the top spot.

Not more of a Yok fanboi than a xray one, but I just happen to have both atm. When beginners join the club, I still recommend xray (don't know about yokomo reliability yet) but on quality and "luxury", at least on the bench, the bd7 blows the t4's pants off, big time...

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Old 01-07-2015, 06:26 AM   #863
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I just bulit a T4'15, coming from a Tamiya TRF418, and I rate the T4 build and parts to be at least on the same par. Especially the plastic parts on the xray seems to have better finish than on the Tamiya.

No parts missing in my box.
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Old 01-07-2015, 07:53 AM   #864
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Originally Posted by Salkin View Post
I just bulit a T4'15, coming from a Tamiya TRF418, and I rate the T4 build and parts to be at least on the same par. Especially the plastic parts on the xray seems to have better finish than on the Tamiya.

No parts missing in my box.
The biggest difference between the Xray and Tamiya is durability, especially of the plastic parts. You could build military tanks out of the Xray plastic, I wouldn't trust the Tamiya plastic to even make toy soldiers.
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Old 01-07-2015, 03:46 PM   #865
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The biggest difference between the Xray and Tamiya is durability, especially of the plastic parts. You could build military tanks out of the Xray plastic, I wouldn't trust the Tamiya plastic to even make toy soldiers.
Xray plastics are soft and flexible but tough.

Yok & TRF graphite parts are stiff and strong but more brittle.

Both have pros and cons, personally I think the yoko plastics are the best in the business.

I ran a BD7 14 last year and after building a T4 15 I agree somewhat with Paul.

The T4 15 screws and belts are IMO poor quality. Plastics molding is good but they are softer than I expected. Plastics shims work just fine but feels like a budget car.

Plastic steering bridge arms, very odd IMO.

On the upside the diff feels great and probably wont leak.
Shocks build well although a touch more sticktion than the yokomo shocks they will probably last longer before needing rebuilds which is great for club racing.
Carbon and alloy is top notch.


This is no doubt in mind after the build the T4 is a good car but for the price of the kit and marketed as 'Luxury' it should come with alloy steering bridge arms, higher quality belts, harder plastics, alloy shims and better screws.
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Old 01-07-2015, 04:00 PM   #866
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I believe the Xray and Yoko belts are interchangeable, no? So one could run Yoko belts in a T4?

And I do agree on the screws. Many have heads that are a bit off-center, and they rust. Eek.
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Old 01-07-2015, 04:10 PM   #867
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Just to clarify my last post the T4 is a great car as is the BD7. My comments were nit picking.

Yet to see the perfect car that needs nothing out of the box except perhaps the AMX.

Quote:
Originally Posted by metalnut View Post
I believe the Xray and Yoko belts are interchangeable, no? So one could run Yoko belts in a T4?

And I do agree on the screws. Many have heads that are a bit off-center, and they rust. Eek.
Pretty sure the belts are interchangeable and I suspect after a few weeks I will have BD7 belts in my T4.
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Old 01-07-2015, 05:22 PM   #868
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Pretty sure the belts are interchangeable and I suspect after a few weeks I will have BD7 belts in my T4.
I'd be curious to hear your thoughts on the two, once you had a chance to run the Xray belts to compare.

I have both the standard and the white "low friction" belts. I find the white belts to feel like higher quality, though they're on a slower car so I can't compare wear. The standard belts seem fine, then again I never had a Yokomo so I'm not opposed to mixing brands for improvements.
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Old 01-07-2015, 05:24 PM   #869
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Not sure about this, but Yokomo front belt is 172 teeth vs Xray's 171 teeth. Both use 63 teeth rear belts.
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Old 01-08-2015, 01:08 AM   #870
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Last year I bought a BD7 2014 and two spare diffs. The car is not so bad but for the diffs I don’t even find the words. To make all three to work (rotate smoothly) half way I needed a whole work day and never got them really to be tight (leaking). Maybe the ‘15 version is better but only for that sake I got a T4 2014. Now I’m driving the T4 ’15 with much success.

Here in Europe you can get a T4 ’15 for 459,90€ and a BD7 ’15 for 479,00€. These are the lowest prices I found in regular RC shops, no special discounts! Maybe you can get them cheaper but the price doesn’t get that much apart anyway.

People will always have their favorites and see things differently (subjective). For me the T4 is working grate and the price is fair for what I get. For someone else it’s a BD7 or TRF419, S411 or VBC, ARC or whatever. It doesn’t even matter what matter is that we have plenty to choose and after a while when you get bored of one you get something else end the story begins from the start.
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