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Old 12-27-2014, 10:01 PM   #811
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Originally Posted by metalnut View Post
If you're going to omit one of the two, omit the o-ring and use the gasket. But with a new o-ring (you can't really reuse them) and a used or new gasket, it should come together rather cleanly. You have to be careful and get it aligned the first time, but I've done it successfully many times and I'm not exactly coordinated. It helps to leave the o-ring on the bottom/filled part of the diff, and then cap it off from the top. You can use a bit of diff oil to seat the gasket in place as well, that way it doesn't fall off as you bring the top piece down.

I'm not sure why yours doesn't seem to fit properly, can you take a picture?
Here's a pic of the problem. The gasket isn't sitting properly and is therefore pushing up and disrupting the O-ring. I'm thinking the gasket needs trimming, otherwise I will omit one of the two. Any thoughts? (I don't have the proper front diff oil yet, so time isn't of the essence.)

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Old 12-27-2014, 10:33 PM   #812
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As mentioned previously, skip the o-ring (or put a bit of diff fluid on the gasket to make it stick to the case.) We have five cars and I don't know how many gear diffs.. no o-rings, no leaks.
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Old 12-28-2014, 12:05 AM   #813
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Yup. Throw the o-ring away. I use a little AE green slime or equivalent on the gasket. Just a light coat on both sides. Helps seal things up and keeps the gasket from sticking to the case halves during disassembly. Plus it helps keep the gasket in place during assembly.
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Old 12-28-2014, 03:54 AM   #814
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Does anyone know how much more weight the 301138 alu chassis is over the standard carbon fibre chassis?

I can see that Hagberg are mainly using the alu chassis and another Xray team driver at our club were testing the alu chassis with good results.
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Old 12-28-2014, 04:31 AM   #815
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Does anyone know how much more weight the 301138 alu chassis is over the standard carbon fibre chassis?

I can see that Hagberg are mainly using the alu chassis and another Xray team driver at our club were testing the alu chassis with good results.
Alu is about 40g heavier then carbon.
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Old 12-28-2014, 06:15 AM   #816
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Alu is about 40g heavier then carbon.
Thanks!
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Old 12-28-2014, 07:55 AM   #817
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Originally Posted by Odin544 View Post
Yup. Throw the o-ring away. I use a little AE green slime or equivalent on the gasket. Just a light coat on both sides. Helps seal things up and keeps the gasket from sticking to the case halves during disassembly. Plus it helps keep the gasket in place during assembly.
Thanks for the help guys. I was thinking some green slime should help. So it looks like I'll be omitting the o-ring once my 2.5mil gravity rc oil shows up!
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Old 12-29-2014, 12:29 AM   #818
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Hi guys, I am having some trouble achieving zero rebound with the shocks. I am using RSD shock internals.

After i 'bleed' the shock a number of times, the oil doesn't want to bleed out anymore and I am stuck with an almost 100% rebound on one of the shocks. The 3 other shocks I have managed to achieve about 0-10% rebound.

Anybody got any tips?
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Old 12-29-2014, 01:58 AM   #819
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Originally Posted by Zhangesh View Post
Hi guys, I am having some trouble achieving zero rebound with the shocks. I am using RSD shock internals.

After i 'bleed' the shock a number of times, the oil doesn't want to bleed out anymore and I am stuck with an almost 100% rebound on one of the shocks. The 3 other shocks I have managed to achieve about 0-10% rebound.

Anybody got any tips?
I'm using the RSD pistons but I prefer the Xray bladders. With the pre-drilled hole in the plastic portion of the shock cap, 0% rebound should be pretty easy. Check to make sure the hole isn't plugged (or missing?) in the shock that isn't building right.
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Old 12-29-2014, 03:59 AM   #820
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Fill the shock and get the air out. Place the bladder on the shock, and gently work it in with a 5.5mm nut driver, to push excess oil out. Then place the plastic cap on the bladder to hold it in place. Then screw on the aluminum piece. If that doesn't give you 0-10% rebound, then something is weird with your shocks. Maybe one cap doesn't have a hole? Or it's plugged as metalnut mentioned. I'm not sure if they're molded that way or drilled at the factory.

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Old 12-29-2014, 04:27 AM   #821
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zhangesh View Post
Hi guys, I am having some trouble achieving zero rebound with the shocks. I am using RSD shock internals.

After i 'bleed' the shock a number of times, the oil doesn't want to bleed out anymore and I am stuck with an almost 100% rebound on one of the shocks. The 3 other shocks I have managed to achieve about 0-10% rebound.

Anybody got any tips?
You need to be a bottom bleeder

I assemble mine with the rod all the way out giving full rebound. Fit the bladder and install the cap, without doing any bleeding. Then turn the shock upside down, unscrew the bottom cap and push the shock rod to one side. All the extra pressure will bleed out, leaving a perfect zero-rebound shock with no air.
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Old 12-29-2014, 08:35 AM   #822
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That's probably the best way to build shocks. Xray should have kept the bottom bleeding feature they had in the past (and so should everybody else).

I work the bladder on and the take the top plastic (not the whole cap) fit it on the bladder in its final resting position, hold it there with light pressure and push the piston all the way in allowing the excess oil to bleed out. Keeping the piston all the way in, I place the cap ring on the plastic and screw it in taking care to maintain pressure on the plastic and making sure it doesn't move around on the bladder. That's the only other way (more convoluted and finicky) to ensure consistent and reproduceable shock builds.
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Last edited by niznai; 12-29-2014 at 12:37 PM.
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Old 12-29-2014, 09:01 AM   #823
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I think there is a pretty good video about how to build Xray shocks with zero rebound.
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Old 12-29-2014, 02:53 PM   #824
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Really good method here for bleeding xray shocks, works very well for me:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DhEDwZm8omM
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Old 12-29-2014, 04:04 PM   #825
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Originally Posted by daleburr View Post
You need to be a bottom bleeder

I assemble mine with the rod all the way out giving full rebound. Fit the bladder and install the cap, without doing any bleeding. Then turn the shock upside down, unscrew the bottom cap and push the shock rod to one side. All the extra pressure will bleed out, leaving a perfect zero-rebound shock with no air.
This is perfect, worked like a charm! Thanks!
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