Sir Loin

iTrader: (28)

I've had good results with polyurethane film on asphalt. The same stuff put on 1:1 cars to protect paint.

Check out IQ Shield on amazon. Of course it will need to be custom trimmed - which is not as easy as it sounds. This stuff is tough.

Josh Hohnstein

iTrader: (3)

The Epic 1 chassis protector is the best on the market.
You can peel it and re-stick 100 times and it will not wear through on asphalt.

mschumi101

iTrader: (30)

So I am building a front gear diff for the car (my first X-ray gear diff, since I bought my car used) and I am having a tough time getting the paper gasket to seat properly. It doesn't sit in the case entirely and disrupts the black ring. Are you guys omitting the paper gasket? Or modifying it slightly to sit in the channel? Thanks in advance.

metalnut

iTrader: (36)

If you're going to omit one of the two, omit the o-ring and use the gasket. But with a new o-ring (you can't really reuse them) and a used or new gasket, it should come together rather cleanly. You have to be careful and get it aligned the first time, but I've done it successfully many times and I'm not exactly coordinated. It helps to leave the o-ring on the bottom/filled part of the diff, and then cap it off from the top. You can use a bit of diff oil to seat the gasket in place as well, that way it doesn't fall off as you bring the top piece down.

I'm not sure why yours doesn't seem to fit properly, can you take a picture?

Barry_Hughes

Are You sure you have the two halves lined up?
On the bottom half of the diff (the bit you put the planet gears in) there is a little stud this needs to line up and go between the two lines on the top half of the diff.

Salkin

Could someone tell me how to read the "wheelbase" section in the setup sheets (top right section):

http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...&setup=t4_2015

Barry_Hughes

the boxes underneath 0 1 1 refer to the number of shims in front of the suspension arm.

so if it is the 0 ticked it means no shims in front which means both shims are at the rear of the arm.

If 1 is ticked the it means 1 shim in front and one shim at the rear

if both 1's are ticked the it means both shims in front, no shims at the rear.

shims are 1mm.

Salkin

OK, thanks, it makes sense now

bigwavedave33

iTrader: (1210)

It takes time to tear through the sticker and you can replace it when it gets worn. I have also just used strapping tape on the edges instead of a full protector. Another alternative is to spray the chassis with plastidip.

SpidarX

iTrader: (3)

I'm building my first X-ray car, and I'm attaching the spur gear. I was going to use a different tooth spur than what came with the kit, and all of my spurs that I have do not align with the screw holes on the spur gear adapter. I thought spur gears were universal in terms of screw hole patterns. Must one use an Xray spur?

niznai

Nah. If you have any serious spur with a 12 hole pattern, should fit. The more serious problem is thickness and offset. There's a few aftermarket companies that make spurs for (or fit) xray

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

I like the Panaracer spur I got recently. Fits great, runs true, sits centered, and has nice wide teeth.

-Mike

Barry_Hughes

RW Offset for Xray fit and have a far bigger range than the Xray originals

nitro_cortex

iTrader: (8)

Hi guys, I just got a new set of TRF DCJ's (42216) + Smokem spool outdrives. But the 42216 set only has 2 ball bearings, and the DCJ's don't seem to be able to fit through the stock ball bearings. Even if I put both ball bearings from the DCJ kit onto one steering block, the hex adaptor thing seems to rub against the steering block pretty seriously? Could anyone tell me how they got around this?

metalnut

iTrader: (36)

You should be using the stock (thicker) bearing on the outside of the steering block, and the thinner bearing on the inside. The DCJ should fit through both with a bit of pressure, but not much. Are you saying the stock Xray bearings won't fit over the Tamiya DCJ? That really shouldn't be the case.

The hex also shouldn't be rubbing against the steering block. When you put the retaining pin through the DCJ and fit the hex over that, the hex should be sitting up against the outside bearing. There may even be a bit of play, I believe I have my shimmed with 0.1mm shims between the DCJ and the inside bearing.