4LikesXray t4'15
12-08-2014, 01:56 AM
#736
12-08-2014, 08:09 AM
#737
Just assembled a new T4'15.
It is probably very obvious, but I just can't figure it out.
Shock mounting. To attach the bottom pat of the shock, you screw these "set screws" into the arms and let them stick out by 3mm/5mm.
On page 30 in the manual it just shows a line from the bottom pivot ball in the shock to the "set screw".
How on earth to do you attach the threaded pivot ball on the shock end to that "set screw" on the arm?
Another question on gearing.
I'm running mod. Trying to get a gearing of approx. 7.5-8.
Bought an xray offset 64p 110T spur and fitted it to the car.
On my Tamiya, the internal gearing was 1.85 and the manual had a nice chart where I could read the gearing depending on the spur/pinion choose.
I cannot find any information like this on the T4'15.
How do I rach a gearing of 7.5-8 with the 64p 110T spur, or do I need to buy a nother size?
It is probably very obvious, but I just can't figure it out.
Shock mounting. To attach the bottom pat of the shock, you screw these "set screws" into the arms and let them stick out by 3mm/5mm.
On page 30 in the manual it just shows a line from the bottom pivot ball in the shock to the "set screw".
How on earth to do you attach the threaded pivot ball on the shock end to that "set screw" on the arm?
Another question on gearing.
I'm running mod. Trying to get a gearing of approx. 7.5-8.
Bought an xray offset 64p 110T spur and fitted it to the car.
On my Tamiya, the internal gearing was 1.85 and the manual had a nice chart where I could read the gearing depending on the spur/pinion choose.
I cannot find any information like this on the T4'15.
How do I rach a gearing of 7.5-8 with the 64p 110T spur, or do I need to buy a nother size?
12-08-2014, 08:34 AM
#738
that had me wondering when I first changed to Xray.
But it is simple the ball has a hex in it, so you use a 3mm hex driver.
the internal ratio is 1.9 you could go to www.gearchart.com for a chart or there are plenty of apps for android etc that you can download for free that you can work out the ratios on.
Beaten to it LOL!
But it is simple the ball has a hex in it, so you use a 3mm hex driver.
the internal ratio is 1.9 you could go to www.gearchart.com for a chart or there are plenty of apps for android etc that you can download for free that you can work out the ratios on.
Beaten to it LOL!
Last edited by Barry_Hughes; 12-08-2014 at 08:36 AM. Reason: added a line
12-08-2014, 08:57 AM
#739
Thanks, all.
Wonder why they didn't show in the manual to use a 3mm hex, it is not obvious, at least not to me. Well, now I know :-)
Wonder why they didn't show in the manual to use a 3mm hex, it is not obvious, at least not to me. Well, now I know :-)
Last edited by Salkin; 12-08-2014 at 04:31 PM.
12-08-2014, 10:41 AM
#740
12-08-2014, 05:15 PM
#742
The manual talks about it. The only difference is that the manual says .5mm of adjustment gives .5 degree of change, and it's actually more like .7 degree of change. The rear starts at 3 degrees according to the manual (with center dot inserts), it's actually more like 3.2 degrees.
12-09-2014, 12:00 AM
#743
Just finished the build, replacing a Tamiya 418.
Must say that the finish of the plastic parts are higher than on the 418.
Really nice quality.
When I compare the 418 with the T4'15, it is significant how much shorter and lower the shocks/tower are on the T4.
Considering that lower CG provides better handling, I wonder why not all have used this low shock/tower configuration?
Maybe longer shocks have advantage over short shocks, maybe?
Must say that the finish of the plastic parts are higher than on the 418.
Really nice quality.
When I compare the 418 with the T4'15, it is significant how much shorter and lower the shocks/tower are on the T4.
Considering that lower CG provides better handling, I wonder why not all have used this low shock/tower configuration?
Maybe longer shocks have advantage over short shocks, maybe?
12-09-2014, 12:36 AM
#744
+1
built the car with ARS but am now thinking of taking it off as I am finding it hard to get a nice balance, either the rear is too planted and I loose steering or it is too loose for my liking. I like the holy grail of plenty of steering but the back to be planted
built the car with ARS but am now thinking of taking it off as I am finding it hard to get a nice balance, either the rear is too planted and I loose steering or it is too loose for my liking. I like the holy grail of plenty of steering but the back to be planted
12-09-2014, 03:59 AM
#745
Tech Regular
iTrader: (12)
The manual talks about it. The only difference is that the manual says .5mm of adjustment gives .5 degree of change, and it's actually more like .7 degree of change. The rear starts at 3 degrees according to the manual (with center dot inserts), it's actually more like 3.2 degrees.
Thanks in advance.
12-09-2014, 04:32 AM
#746
Hi All,
Long time ago I saw a ARS graph which shows the camber change as per shims change value do anyone know where to find
thanks.
Long time ago I saw a ARS graph which shows the camber change as per shims change value do anyone know where to find
thanks.
12-09-2014, 09:59 AM
#747
Haven't seen one for the Xray, but have for the Serpent & ARC versions. There is supposed to be a new set up book coming for the 15, but guess with all the big races going on at the moment they haven't had time to get finished
12-10-2014, 12:12 AM
#748
Heard that I needed to upgrade the front kit single joint cvd's with new two joint cvd's.
I know that on older versions of the T4, the single joint cvd's would give this clicking sound when on full steering, causing vibrations etc.
But on my newly assembled T4 I have no such issues. When the car sits on the stand and I apply throttle and full steering, no sounds or vibrations. Neither when I compress the suspension (no wheels on, though).
So, why should I not just use the kit front cvd's?
I know that on older versions of the T4, the single joint cvd's would give this clicking sound when on full steering, causing vibrations etc.
But on my newly assembled T4 I have no such issues. When the car sits on the stand and I apply throttle and full steering, no sounds or vibrations. Neither when I compress the suspension (no wheels on, though).
So, why should I not just use the kit front cvd's?
12-10-2014, 12:38 AM
#749
Heard that I needed to upgrade the front kit single joint cvd's with new two joint cvd's.
I know that on older versions of the T4, the single joint cvd's would give this clicking sound when on full steering, causing vibrations etc.
But on my newly assembled T4 I have no such issues. When the car sits on the stand and I apply throttle and full steering, no sounds or vibrations. Neither when I compress the suspension (no wheels on, though).
So, why should I not just use the kit front cvd's?
I know that on older versions of the T4, the single joint cvd's would give this clicking sound when on full steering, causing vibrations etc.
But on my newly assembled T4 I have no such issues. When the car sits on the stand and I apply throttle and full steering, no sounds or vibrations. Neither when I compress the suspension (no wheels on, though).
So, why should I not just use the kit front cvd's?
12-10-2014, 12:48 AM
#750
But the kit CVD's can do for just now.