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Old 11-16-2014, 07:01 PM   #661
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Hi everyone. Just to clarify on a few questions about our new T4 Diff Cups.

Firstly, they are a blade-less design. Different people will have different opinions on whether they prefer blades or no blades in the front end. But when using heavy oils or putties in the front end, blades are placed under enormous stresses as differential action is severely limited. So our preference has always been to do away with blades in the front end as they can break in the middle of a race and severely compromise your run (maybe even resulting in a DNF).

Secondly as PROMODVETTE pointed out (many thanks PROMODVETTE), the XRAY and Tamiya driveshafts have a different diameter in the ball section of the driveshaft. So it is necessary to have a different design specific for use with the Tamiya DCJ's. If you use Tamiya DCJ's inside a stock XRAY diff or spool cup, you will find a fair bit of wobble inside the cups.

And lastly, we have also just received our new T4'15-IIX chassis...

Hope that helps!
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Old 11-17-2014, 12:20 AM   #662
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Any of you running VTA / USGT on a low to medium grip carpet? Is the ass end loose on you at all with close-to-kit setup? My likes to kick out right after corner entry and going through mid corner.

With the help of people much better at setup than I things are progressing in the right direction, but the kit setup just felt off and unbalanced. Even with 2mm less droop in the back and 1mm less in the front (than kit, so 7 on the Hudy droop gauge), the car still just breaks loose and spins out until traction comes up. Once traction comes up it's pretty fast, but I'm curious if anyone has noticed anything similar.
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Old 11-17-2014, 01:07 AM   #663
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With ARS or not?
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Old 11-17-2014, 01:48 AM   #664
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Quote:
Originally Posted by metalnut View Post
Any of you running VTA / USGT on a low to medium grip carpet? Is the ass end loose on you at all with close-to-kit setup? My likes to kick out right after corner entry and going through mid corner.

With the help of people much better at setup than I things are progressing in the right direction, but the kit setup just felt off and unbalanced. Even with 2mm less droop in the back and 1mm less in the front (than kit, so 7 on the Hudy droop gauge), the car still just breaks loose and spins out until traction comes up. Once traction comes up it's pretty fast, but I'm curious if anyone has noticed anything similar.
Thicken up the diff, stand the rear shocks up one hole, reduce bumpsteer spacing, and add shims to the front inner link.
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Old 11-17-2014, 03:03 AM   #665
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Metalnut wasn't using ARS. My '14 did the same thing in 17.5 TC with kit carpet setup. I removed the topdeck screw in the post (none in layshaft) and replaced an old 2k diff with a brand new 3k diff. I also sauced more. Problem was completely gone. Not positive if it was all the changes, or just the track coming in.

Part of it was definitely the track, though. There was one corner that was hard to hit the groove, and if you missed it, the back would be out of the groove as the front came back in and got grip.

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Old 11-17-2014, 07:44 AM   #666
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Thicken up the diff, stand the rear shocks up one hole, reduce bumpsteer spacing, and add shims to the front inner link.
Yeah, Grippgoat gave me his 5K rear diff to try and the car felt really good with that in the back. Once again, the track was definitely stickier by the end of the day, so hard to say how much it helped. I'll keep the other settings in mind for next time, thanks!
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Old 11-17-2014, 08:13 AM   #667
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Quote:
Originally Posted by metalnut View Post
Any of you running VTA / USGT on a low to medium grip carpet? Is the ass end loose on you at all with close-to-kit setup? My likes to kick out right after corner entry and going through mid corner.

With the help of people much better at setup than I things are progressing in the right direction, but the kit setup just felt off and unbalanced. Even with 2mm less droop in the back and 1mm less in the front (than kit, so 7 on the Hudy droop gauge), the car still just breaks loose and spins out until traction comes up. Once traction comes up it's pretty fast, but I'm curious if anyone has noticed anything similar.
I had the same issue(not using ARS yet). I knew traction was going to be low so started at 6 and 7 droop. Car was pretty good and then foolishly went to 5/6 and it was an ice skating rink. Maybe could have gone another .5mm less. Other than that the kit setup was great...
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Old 11-17-2014, 08:25 AM   #668
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I had the same issue(not using ARS yet). I knew traction was going to be low so started at 6 and 7 droop. Car was pretty good and then foolishly went to 5/6 and it was an ice skating rink. Maybe could have gone another .5mm less. Other than that the kit setup was great...
I see, so you added droop and it became really loose... yeah, that's what I was nothing. But if you remove too much droop it also becomes bad. I haven't tried a 1mm stagger like that, though, maybe I can give the 6R/7F droop a try next time.
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Old 11-17-2014, 11:37 AM   #669
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EDIT: I'm stupid.

Last edited by grippgoat; 11-17-2014 at 01:11 PM.
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Old 11-17-2014, 02:27 PM   #670
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EDIT: I'm stupid.
It's a feeling I've gotten used to
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Old 11-17-2014, 05:31 PM   #671
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Got the new Smokem diff outdrives in today and these things are awesome! Can't wait to get them on the track this weekend. For anyone wondering, they do weigh a little more than the xray steel ones, about 1.1 grams more, and the Tamiya dcj's are about 1.7 grams more than the xray. I didn't have a 4mm thick bearing out so you will save a tenth or 2 when switching to the 3mm bearings. Both Smokem and Tamiya parts are an upgrade in the beef department though. I couldn't see how either part will fail!
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Old 11-17-2014, 06:20 PM   #672
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I like this car. A lot.

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Old 11-17-2014, 06:56 PM   #673
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smokem Racing View Post

[...]

Secondly as PROMODVETTE pointed out (many thanks PROMODVETTE), the XRAY and Tamiya driveshafts have a different diameter in the ball section of the driveshaft. So it is necessary to have a different design specific for use with the Tamiya DCJ's. If you use Tamiya DCJ's inside a stock XRAY diff or spool cup, you will find a fair bit of wobble inside the cups.

And lastly, we have also just received our new T4'15-IIX chassis...

Hope that helps!
Tamiya has an outdrive (drive cup) that is a direct swap with the Xray one to give the correct fitment for Tamiya DCJ driveshafts. I have used it as explained quite a few pages back.
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Old 11-17-2014, 08:26 PM   #674
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I'm late to the party, why is everyone wanting to use tamiya dcjs?
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Old 11-17-2014, 08:36 PM   #675
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I'm late to the party, why is everyone wanting to use tamiya dcjs?
Flavour of the week.

I converted my TRF418 to use Xray diffs and just wanted to use the DCJs I already had.
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