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Old 11-07-2014, 12:19 PM   #616
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Is the pin on the tamiya DCJs larger or smaller than xray? If larger, could you just drill out some blades? I can't remember if I have a pair of the xray steel diff outdrives in my parts bag, and whether they use blades or not.

-Mike
The pin/ball end of the Tamiya is smaller. The pin is thicker but shorter, and the ball is smaller, so it "rattles" inside the cup. The Smokem spool cups fix that, but for a gear diff this is still an issue. Not a show stopper as I have the other DCJs, but it's something I've been trying to research a bit.

I tried the Xray plastic blades and they do an ok job of keeping the Tamiya DCJ from rattling, but it still has too much side to side movement for my liking. The white Tamiya blades are too thick for the cup, but if sanded down would still probably have too much play.

Anyway, after using the correct type of blue loctite, I think my Xray DCJs should hold up. If not, RSD backups in hand.
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Old 11-07-2014, 12:55 PM   #617
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For those asking why... just to figure out what's available. I have and have tried Xray, RSD and Spec-R DCJs on my T4. I also have a set of Tamiya DCJs already and there was a discussion about fitting them a while ago. I have the Smokem cups for a spool, but the gear diff situation was my question.

And yes, the general opinion seems to be that Tamiya DCJs are the best quality out of the ones I've mentioned, though I'm really liking my RSD ones.
How did you like or dislike the Spec-R ones?
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Old 11-07-2014, 01:22 PM   #618
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How did you like or dislike the Spec-R ones?
I've had a couple sets of the Spec-R v2's that were phenomenal for the cost. They lasted forever and were a great price.

HOWEVER, that has changed with the new P8 version that has replaced them. The first set I got the axles snapped, both of them within 4 packs. The first snapped when I tried to tighten the wheel nut before my second run. The second snapped when I had a light board tap, nothing that I would have expected to snap an axle.

I would strongly suggest avoiding the new P8 version of the Spec-R shafts.
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Old 11-07-2014, 01:51 PM   #619
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I liked the V2s once I had the retaining clips on in the correct direction. They held up just fine, but then again I was using them in a 25.5 class so not that much power flowing through them. I have no experience with the new P8 version, but the above experience sounds bad.

The RSD DCJs are very good. Fit and finish is great, just keep them lubricated as they can develop some surface rust (at least it looks like rust). Very little play and come together (and stay together) without a problem, those would be my recommendation.
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Old 11-07-2014, 01:53 PM   #620
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Quick subject change... I noticed the '15 kit came with white shock pistons as opposed to the black ones for the 2013. I already ordered a set of RSD machined pistons, though, so I didn't use the kit ones. Should I have? The RSD ones have a bit of play side to side inside the shock and they feel a little bit rough against the inside of the shock body. I don't recall if that's how they feel/felt on my '13, but I'm running them there as well. Not sure if I got a bad batch or if that's by design or if they break in or... no idea. Thoughts?
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Old 11-07-2014, 01:58 PM   #621
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Our pistons have a square edge, where the XRAY pistons are slightly rounded. The delrin will break in over time, what you are feeling is probably a slightly lower quality finish inside the XRAY shocks than previously. One thing you can do to minimize this is take some 600 grit sandpaper and just slightly (I mean very slight!) smooth out the edge of the piston to accelerate the "break in" Period.
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Old 11-07-2014, 02:18 PM   #622
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dumb question, but I didn't see a "kit setup" in my box. anyone have a link?
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Old 11-07-2014, 02:36 PM   #623
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dumb question, but I didn't see a "kit setup" in my box. anyone have a link?
try here http://www.teamxray.com/t4/download/
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Old 11-07-2014, 03:01 PM   #624
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Our pistons have a square edge, where the XRAY pistons are slightly rounded. The delrin will break in over time, what you are feeling is probably a slightly lower quality finish inside the XRAY shocks than previously. One thing you can do to minimize this is take some 600 grit sandpaper and just slightly (I mean very slight!) smooth out the edge of the piston to accelerate the "break in" Period.
That answers my question and makes sense, thanks
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Old 11-07-2014, 03:12 PM   #625
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I've had a couple sets of the Spec-R v2's that were phenomenal for the cost. They lasted forever and were a great price.

HOWEVER, that has changed with the new P8 version that has replaced them. The first set I got the axles snapped, both of them within 4 packs. The first snapped when I tried to tighten the wheel nut before my second run. The second snapped when I had a light board tap, nothing that I would have expected to snap an axle.

I would strongly suggest avoiding the new P8 version of the Spec-R shafts.
That doesn't sound promising. I ran my P8's last weekend without issue, but we'll see
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Old 11-07-2014, 05:03 PM   #626
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thanks!
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Old 11-07-2014, 05:50 PM   #627
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I've been running Spec-R V2 DCJ's for at least 3 years now, starting with Schumacher and now two Xrays, from 25.5 to Mod TC. I've only broken one. The bone broke at the coupling after a hard hit. I had one that popped apart after hits, but rotating to fresh holes on the barrel solved that. I bought some spare parts in case something happened again, but have never needed them.

But that's all moot if they've replaced it with a weaker design. :/

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Quick subject change... I noticed the '15 kit came with white shock pistons as opposed to the black ones for the 2013. I already ordered a set of RSD machined pistons, though, so I didn't use the kit ones. Should I have? The RSD ones have a bit of play side to side inside the shock and they feel a little bit rough against the inside of the shock body. I don't recall if that's how they feel/felt on my '13, but I'm running them there as well. Not sure if I got a bad batch or if that's by design or if they break in or... no idea. Thoughts?
The change to a white material was a running change during the T4'14. My original '14 had black parts just like the '13, and my newer '14 had white parts. I didn't really test for it, but I didn't notice a difference in performance. It's definitely easier to see bubbles with the white parts, though.

The stock Xray pistons have a LOT of side-to-side movement. There's a pretty substantial gap between the piston and inside of the damper.

What hole pattern do you have in your RSD pistons? I'd be interested in fiddling with them and comparing against the kit pistons, if we're at the track together, and you have a spare set from a car you're not running that day.

-Mike
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Old 11-07-2014, 09:11 PM   #628
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I get my kit tomorrow.......can't wait.....only one more sleep.....woo hoo.
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Old 11-08-2014, 12:51 AM   #629
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What hole pattern do you have in your RSD pistons? I'd be interested in fiddling with them and comparing against the kit pistons, if we're at the track together, and you have a spare set from a car you're not running that day.

-Mike
I just ordered the kit hole pattern, so 4 x 1.1mm if I recall. I don't actually have any spares, though it'll probably be a good idea to order some just in case. I was just being lazy and didn't want to take the shocks apart again to compare against the kit pistons. But Cristian's explanation above is good enough for me
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Old 11-08-2014, 02:51 AM   #630
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Yeah, I didn't mean spares or taking shocks apart. Just trying your old shocks if you're not running the car.

-Mike
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