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Old 10-02-2015, 12:41 PM   #1666
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i use the hudy setup station.. but there are many other options..
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Old 10-02-2015, 02:28 PM   #1667
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i use the hudy setup station.. but there are many other options..
I didn't mean different brand stations, but rather... Doesn't Hudy have different stations for on-road?

Anyone run Futaba 204GF-E receiver? All my other receivers are the telemetry ones and the 4 channel with antennas. I am just wondering does the range on the GFE (one with no antenna) suck? Or is it reasonable? It says 230' or 70m but can't really judge if that would be enough. I am used to 8th scale stuff so tucking an antenna somewhere isn't a big deal but these 10th scales are pretty limited on space.
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Old 10-02-2015, 02:30 PM   #1668
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they have an all included setup kit.. that has a tweak station, and stuff like that.. i got just the setup station..
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Old 10-02-2015, 04:25 PM   #1669
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Originally Posted by Slapjack View Post
I didn't mean different brand stations, but rather... Doesn't Hudy have different stations for on-road?

Anyone run Futaba 204GF-E receiver? All my other receivers are the telemetry ones and the 4 channel with antennas. I am just wondering does the range on the GFE (one with no antenna) suck? Or is it reasonable? It says 230' or 70m but can't really judge if that would be enough. I am used to 8th scale stuff so tucking an antenna somewhere isn't a big deal but these 10th scales are pretty limited on space.
It will specifically say say 1/10th on-road set up station...
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Old 10-02-2015, 07:24 PM   #1670
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It will specifically say say 1/10th on-road set up station...
Ok thAnks. Are the purple Hacker motors a good motor for mod? I got the 17.5 trinity d4 but I just came across a hacker 5.5t
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Old 10-03-2015, 10:18 AM   #1671
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Am I understanding the FDR correctly when I say to start on the safe side ad keep motor temp low I would want to start with a higher fdr# (4.0) vs a lower fdr# (3.7) for example?
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Old 10-03-2015, 06:00 PM   #1672
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Am I understanding the FDR correctly when I say to start on the safe side ad keep motor temp low I would want to start with a higher fdr# (4.0) vs a lower fdr# (3.7) for example?
Yes. Though too low of an FDR can have the motor spinning too fast and also make it hotter. But you're in a safe range. Don't forget that motor timing is also an important factor in the game.
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Old 10-03-2015, 08:31 PM   #1673
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Yes. Though too low of an FDR can have the motor spinning too fast and also make it hotter. But you're in a safe range. Don't forget that motor timing is also an important factor in the game.
I'm running 96 pinion and I just ordered a 45, 47, 50 and 52
Pinion. But what about timing? I do know in the one class at my lhs timing has to be set to zero. But what should I usually run it at otherwise? Maybe stay below 50?
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Old 10-04-2015, 01:04 AM   #1674
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I'm running 96 pinion and I just ordered a 45, 47, 50 and 52
Pinion. But what about timing? I do know in the one class at my lhs timing has to be set to zero. But what should I usually run it at otherwise? Maybe stay below 50?
You're asking a lot of questions that aren't T4 specific and you'd probably get better/quicker answers in the appropriate forums. In general yes, most motors like to be below 50* of timing, but keep in mind that the marks on the end of the motor aren't always accurate to what the actual internal timing works out to be. Start with stock timing and a decent FDR, then crank it up a few degrees at a time, measuring motor temp after each full qualifier or race. Keep your motor below 160* of temperature.

Also, I'm pretty sure the "no timing" class you're talking about means no boost or any other timing advance on the ESC (also called stock or blinky racing). Motor timing (on the motor can itself) is almost always allowed, but do follow your track rules of course.
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Old 10-05-2015, 07:47 AM   #1675
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If anyone is looking for a great carpet car, here it is:
Xray T4 2015, One Race, Roller

I purchased this a few weeks back, and only had intentions on running one race with it. That race is done, so I no longer need the car.
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Old 10-06-2015, 09:58 AM   #1676
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Just thought I would post this in case someone else was looking for an alternative to using tape for battery hold down and doesn't have time to wait to buy one and have it shipped.... Someone else has probably already posted something like this but oh well....
This was just a quick practice to see if it would work. I am going to redo it so it looks a little cleaner but, I took a couple pieces of Velcro straps (1 piece hook, 1 piece loop), removed the horizontal battery stops from the chasis poked a couple holes in the Velcro for the screws to pass through and another hole for the adjustable stops to pass through and then placed the Velcro on the chasis and the graphite battery stop on top of the Velcro and sandwiched them together by tightening the screws down. This way the strap doesn't have to loop under the chasis. I posted a couple pics. The strapis obviously long and would have to be trimmed to fit the specific battery.
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Xray t4'15-image_zpsberzo4xb.jpg   Xray t4'15-image_zpsgkbzanv2.jpg   Xray t4'15-image_zpsgqgst8ag.jpg   Xray t4'15-image_zpshdsgfomc.jpg  
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Old 10-06-2015, 02:28 PM   #1677
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THis is what happens when a friend decides he wants something other than orange (and they can't do any sort of white, or a decent yellow lol)
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Old 10-06-2015, 02:49 PM   #1678
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THis is what happens when a friend decides he wants something other than orange (and they can't do any sort of white, or a decent yellow lol)
I think Hotbodies is not happy with this.(LOL)
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Old 10-06-2015, 05:24 PM   #1679
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I like it... Looks good. But orange is probably my favorite. Anyone done a green one?
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Old 10-06-2015, 07:13 PM   #1680
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Wondering what I should be runnin for toe in in the rear? I have the standard rear setup (not ARS) and I just stuck the .5mm pills in but it looks a little too much. Maybe would the .5 deg pills be better?
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