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Old 10-01-2015, 08:59 AM   #1651
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Hello, can some of you guys confirm that 1 (one) ecs shaft costs more than 40usd? Because that would make the novel 2016 version more convenient than the 2015...
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Old 10-01-2015, 09:00 AM   #1652
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Hello, can some of you guys confirm that 1 (one) ecs shaft costs more than 40usd? Because that would make the novel 2016 version more convenient than the 2015...
yes
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Old 10-01-2015, 09:53 AM   #1653
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Can someone tell me if this mount is going to work with the ARS? it says it mounts on the hole used for the motor guard. I don't have the car infront of me but doesn't that hole also get used for the ARS link that is mounted to the chasis?

http://www.reflexracing.net/RSD-XRAY...an_p_1759.html

And does someone have a link for the orange fastener kit and which orance cone washers I should use for the flat head countersunk screws?
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Old 10-01-2015, 09:56 AM   #1654
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Originally Posted by Slapjack View Post
Can someone tell me if this mount is going to work with the ARS? it says it mounts on the hole used for the motor guard. I don't have the car infront of me but doesn't that hole also get used for the ARS link that is mounted to the chasis?

http://www.reflexracing.net/RSD-XRAY...an_p_1759.html

And does someone have a link for the orange fastener kit and which orance cone washers I should use?
It should work fine, different hole. It mounts at the base of the motor, more or less.
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Old 10-01-2015, 10:20 AM   #1655
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You want the battery to allow the chassis to flex under it so this is a good thing.

That said...get this tape and be done. It's the easiest thing and it's what the fast guys do because it's the best option.

http://www.reflexracing.net/Hudy-Fib...ck_p_2224.html
How wide is the tape? I was looking at 3M 890 tape which I heard was good and I can get it real cheap through work. But I can only find 11/16" wide. I need to start bringing my car to work with me so I can measure things as I shop for parts.. Lol
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Old 10-01-2015, 11:52 AM   #1656
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Ok guys I'm back with more questions about the issue Inposted with the bent top deck and gap between the lay shaft holder. After looking at this more I understand now I think. You are saying to use shims between the deck and bulkhead so the deck doesn't bend when screwed down... and there should be a gap between the deck and layshaft holder so it can flex more? Right? As if I want to use the lay screws I have to shim between the deck and lay shaft holder. I found some shims from RSD but I think they are for the lay shaft holder. Are there shims I can buy for shimming between the deck and bulkheads? The holes are so close together I can't use washers or anything because they interfere with each other.
These are a couple pics if where I need to shim so the deck is flat
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And leave this gap alone... Unless I want to run lay shaft screws then I shim that too. But I would have to go back to the stock deck because this deck doesn't even have holes for those screws as you can see
Running no lay shaft screws would be for low traction tracks like asphalt and I would want to run them when it's high bite like on carpet?
You do realize that your gaps you are seeing is because you have not assembled the plastic pivot-ball support on your Spec-R top deck correctly? You have your top plastic piece on upside down. Flip that over and you will not need any spacers as long as the plastic has not been ruined being bolted together that way. If the plastic is ruined you might need to look at some 12th scale kits to find replacement parts.
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Old 10-01-2015, 12:27 PM   #1657
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Has anyone in the states ordered from A+ Rc Products in Hong Kong? I was going to order this but I don't know about ordering from overseas
http://www.a-plusrc.us/t4-aluminum-7...battery-mount/
I ordered mine from RCMarket.

But I have that mount, and love it. I originally bought it for my car that was doing a 6-hour Enduro, but I liked it so much I use it for my mod car, too.

It keeps tape out from under the chassis, which is nice for checking tweak by balancing the chassis on the edge of your pit board, and avoiding tape failures on curbs/rocks when running asphalt.

The adjustable stops keep the battery in place front-to-back very nicely. And because the battery is held in place better, you don't have to crank the Velcro / tape down so hard.

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Old 10-01-2015, 12:49 PM   #1658
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That should fit the hudy tape is .64 of an inch or 41/64. (Yours Is 44/64) there is a slight bit of room when putting in the hudy tape.
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Old 10-01-2015, 01:09 PM   #1659
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You do realize that your gaps you are seeing is because you have not assembled the plastic pivot-ball support on your Spec-R top deck correctly? You have your top plastic piece on upside down. Flip that over and you will not need any spacers as long as the plastic has not been ruined being bolted together that way. If the plastic is ruined you might need to look at some 12th scale kits to find replacement parts.
I have tried assembling it every which way. Any way other than the way I have it, the deck doesn't pivot when it is un-bolted from the bulkheads. The only way I had it assembled where it had no gaps was if I installed the pivot ball from the top side of the deck instead of from underneath. Then it sat flat... but the pivot ball sat up to high on the top side of the deck that way and the deck didn't pivot. I literally spent like 45 minutes lastnight assembling it everyway I could think of. If you have it assembled where it doesn't have a gap, post some pics. Cause I don't see a way to do it and keep the deck pivoting. After everyone elses responses yesterday it made sense that there was meant to be a gap, but if that was the case one would think the kit would have come with spacers. When I got the car, the bent top deck was the first thing I noticed on it. I don't see it hurting anything using spacers though (PITA).
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Old 10-01-2015, 02:54 PM   #1660
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Here is a picture from rcmart, that shows how it is put together

http://www.rcmart.com/spec-spr056fbs...=595_1077_1571
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Old 10-02-2015, 05:50 AM   #1661
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I started installing the ARS on my car last night (when I got it, it just had the standard style rear suspension on it). The pins are a little tight in the a-arm holes. Should I buy the Hudy reamer or just find a 3mm drill bit or generic reamer? Will it make a difference? I just thought $25 for a hand reamer is a little ridiculous. Anyone have a link to a part they used that worked good?
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Old 10-02-2015, 06:20 AM   #1662
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do you have a setup station? if not.. i wouldnt do the ARS just yet.
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Old 10-02-2015, 06:40 AM   #1663
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do you have a setup station? if not.. i wouldnt do the ARS just yet.
Agreed. Plus most people use the standard setup and seem to get around just fine. I would stick with the standard rear until you've got the car running well then play with the ARS if you feel like.
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Old 10-02-2015, 07:13 AM   #1664
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do you have a setup station? if not.. i wouldnt do the ARS just yet.
Really, why not? No, I don't have the setup station. Which station would I want to get? there is a couple different ones isn't there?
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Last edited by Slapjack; 10-02-2015 at 07:24 AM.
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Old 10-02-2015, 11:40 AM   #1665
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there are quite a few different ones.. the reason you want a setup station for that rear end option.. is because it has tie rods, similar to the front. if you dont have a setup staion.. your just guessing. like the front toe.. are you really running 1* toe out.. by just looking at it? in the rear.. you want around 3* rear toe.. depending on setup.. but to make sure the car is right.. then.. you need a setup station..

if you use the stock rear end.. it will be set by the pills used in the lower arm blocks because the outer hub is set by a pin. with the ARS.. the outer hub is set by tie rods similar to the front.
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